I can't remember which training sessions i last 'blogged' about so i'll start from Friday. Nobody else wanted to train, I went up the board feeling less than psyched. After warming up I seemed to summon some motivation from somewhere and went to have the best rings session yet. Lots of shouting was involved as there was nobody to laugh at me, it was still nowhere near as good as keith's ranting when he fails on things.
My family visited on Saturday (Dad's Birthday), Natalie and I finished off our Christmas shopping and then we went to Thyme, the place is amazing, all of the alcohol from the rising sun and the pre-meal mulled wine went straight to my head.
Sunday: Ned, Dave and I did rings.
Monday: I did the blue circuit down the works (whoever set this obviously has a heel fetish!). My finger felt as though it might react badly to climbing again for the first five problems but after that I didn't really feel it at all. The next day there was zero swelling which is a relief, i'm going to make sure to get back to it gently and not cause myself some other injury in the process.
Tues: Very sore....Visit B&Q and the Foundry for odds n sods
Wed: Rings with a difference... My odds n sod's were tied together to create a 'Dream Machine' (it gives weighted assistance to you in the rings! Referred to as a dream machine by gymnasts as you can do exercises that you can only dream of). Said contraption is in the bag with the rings, simply chuck it all out, slip the 2nd pulley over the beam at the other end of the roof and your ready to go!
After warming up Dave and I tried the iron cross with a fair amount of assistance (20 kg, which is 30% for dave and 35% for me)...
It's worth noting at this stage we are only trying to learn the correct form!
Dave:
Myself:
All in all not a bad effort, I think the rings needed to be higher for dave and my elbows needed to start of straighter although I was happy with the end result.
Finished the session well with 2 sets of 2 non left biased muscle ups.
Works again tonight....
Thursday 20 December 2007
Thursday 13 December 2007
Mini Mini
So did it work or does it just look sh*t?
I forgot one important part of the previous post: I touched my toes after 5 minutes of stretching, properly as well no bent legs or any cheating. It's still dull!
My turn for Man Flu!
Last night it was once again time for the rings, I was feeling pretty ropey but didn't really realise how ill I was until I started doing skin the cats, being inverted with blocked sinuses and unable to breath through my mouth (too much gurning going on) I felt like I was about to explode. This pretty much set the tone for the rest of the evening. I cut the number of sets after about midway through the workout and failed on muscle ups. After this I went home and sulked. I reckon I caught it from dobbins bright yellow cod piece ('Banana Guard') that I currently have kicking around the flat.
Natalie was away the other night for work. I was pretty bored so started mucking around with tutorials on the Gimp (photshop alternative), I started mucking around with tilt shift effects that make real things look like models (maybe the gimp is an appropriate name?), anway I think I did a pretty good job with a picture of my mini, will post at a later date. Here's an example:
Monday 10 December 2007
Rounds 2 & 3
Wednesday came and it was time for round 2 of the rings, Dave Mason was psyched as well so that made 3 of us. Round 2 started wasn't looking good right from the off, my lower back was still absolutely trashed and my form was all over the place. I got majorly mocked my Vicky for my lack of core and my efforts at doing L-sits, and then later for my inflexibility. Dave and I dispatched our first muscle ups after a long discussion about what constitutes the 'false grip', everyone believing that they knew best until I produced a video of some beast from crossfit.com .
Friday came and i still wasn't ready to go back to climbing, dave lee and I however were all psyched for rings. At this stage my body was starting to react slightly better to the rings, it didn't ache anywhere near as much and my form was improving with each exercise. 2 minutes of stretching vastly improved my flexibility and hence the length of time I could do L-sits for. Dave crushed a load of muscle ups.
During the weekend I visited my family up north, we had a meal out on the saturday somewhere posh that gave Nat a chance to wear a stupidly priced dress she recently acquired. Hatton lost, didn't watch it. This morning (the day of round 4) I awoke with a headache, snuffly nose and a sore throat, bugger. I am no supping masses of lemsip whilst cursing my computer that froze about 15minutes after I left it working away on Friday night. My supervisor is still away.
Friday came and i still wasn't ready to go back to climbing, dave lee and I however were all psyched for rings. At this stage my body was starting to react slightly better to the rings, it didn't ache anywhere near as much and my form was improving with each exercise. 2 minutes of stretching vastly improved my flexibility and hence the length of time I could do L-sits for. Dave crushed a load of muscle ups.
During the weekend I visited my family up north, we had a meal out on the saturday somewhere posh that gave Nat a chance to wear a stupidly priced dress she recently acquired. Hatton lost, didn't watch it. This morning (the day of round 4) I awoke with a headache, snuffly nose and a sore throat, bugger. I am no supping masses of lemsip whilst cursing my computer that froze about 15minutes after I left it working away on Friday night. My supervisor is still away.
Tuesday 4 December 2007
Core Meltdown
I've had a bit of a negative outlook on climbing since returning from Font, I said to myself after my leg that if I struggled to get back into climbing, I'd just accept it and take it easy until my body could cope with it. I've obviously rushed things a little because my fingers are on strike! Someone famous in the climbing world once said that its easy to get strong, its just hard to get strong without getting injured and he hit the nail right on the head. Its evident in a number of people.
Anyway, now I have an A2 injury, these really aren't good for someone who climbs in the manner I do, I crimp everything even jugs. I've been working on open handing and have seen some improvements but these are slow and the collateral ligament sprain on my left hand stops me doing dead hangs anyway.
After reading Ned's blog and reading some other stuff I realized that above doing some sit ups and leg raises i've never really targeted my core. Something else made me remember that Dobbin has been at the board a number of times doing crazy things with gym rings. A quick text to Dobbin and he, Dave and I were all lined up for a rings session early this afternoon. Unfortunately dobbin called in sick early on and the work mounted on me during the day so it was called off.
Just as I was leaving the office/research group room or whatever I should call it, Leeroy rang and he had the necessary knowledge and devotion to show me the way of the rings.
The workout entirely crushed me, highlighting extreme weakness in my stomach and lower back although all the pulling bits of my upper body seemed to be fairly strong. Muscle ups were left until the end but neither of us really understood all this false grip stuff and hence failed miserably. I came home psyched and sore and did some digging on the Internet looking for Dob's workout (I didn't find it), instead i found:
surely if the woman at the end manages one (despite it being very shaky) dense and I can too?
Pictures like this:
make me think that there can be absolutely no harm in doing the kind of workouts that he would have done (even if he was stronger when he was 6 than I am now!)...
Whilst digging I also found this:
how crazy is that? granted some of it isn't that strength related but they prove their strength further on in the video. Plus any man that will lunge his leg through a metal ring at high speed is brave beyond words. I imagine muscle beach to be a strange place, very odd too that it has spawned two very strange cultures, bodybuilding being one and the other being dangerous surfing through abandoned amusement piers that evolved into modern day skateboarding.
I'm going to ache tomorrow...
Anyway, now I have an A2 injury, these really aren't good for someone who climbs in the manner I do, I crimp everything even jugs. I've been working on open handing and have seen some improvements but these are slow and the collateral ligament sprain on my left hand stops me doing dead hangs anyway.
After reading Ned's blog and reading some other stuff I realized that above doing some sit ups and leg raises i've never really targeted my core. Something else made me remember that Dobbin has been at the board a number of times doing crazy things with gym rings. A quick text to Dobbin and he, Dave and I were all lined up for a rings session early this afternoon. Unfortunately dobbin called in sick early on and the work mounted on me during the day so it was called off.
Just as I was leaving the office/research group room or whatever I should call it, Leeroy rang and he had the necessary knowledge and devotion to show me the way of the rings.
The workout entirely crushed me, highlighting extreme weakness in my stomach and lower back although all the pulling bits of my upper body seemed to be fairly strong. Muscle ups were left until the end but neither of us really understood all this false grip stuff and hence failed miserably. I came home psyched and sore and did some digging on the Internet looking for Dob's workout (I didn't find it), instead i found:
surely if the woman at the end manages one (despite it being very shaky) dense and I can too?
Pictures like this:
make me think that there can be absolutely no harm in doing the kind of workouts that he would have done (even if he was stronger when he was 6 than I am now!)...
Whilst digging I also found this:
how crazy is that? granted some of it isn't that strength related but they prove their strength further on in the video. Plus any man that will lunge his leg through a metal ring at high speed is brave beyond words. I imagine muscle beach to be a strange place, very odd too that it has spawned two very strange cultures, bodybuilding being one and the other being dangerous surfing through abandoned amusement piers that evolved into modern day skateboarding.
I'm going to ache tomorrow...
Sunday 2 December 2007
The one and only...
...photo that the camera allowed us to take:
I reckon the bleaustone boys copied the sloper I have my rh on for one of their holds, its identical I swear.
Not climbed this weekend, after reading ned's blog I think i'll do a load of core stuff for a couple of weeks, maybe some ring training as well. My experience with A2 injuries is that I cannot help but make them worse by trying to climb (even easy stuff).
I reckon the bleaustone boys copied the sloper I have my rh on for one of their holds, its identical I swear.
Not climbed this weekend, after reading ned's blog I think i'll do a load of core stuff for a couple of weeks, maybe some ring training as well. My experience with A2 injuries is that I cannot help but make them worse by trying to climb (even easy stuff).
Friday 30 November 2007
Font + Cod & Pollock Fingers!!!
Firstly Font:
We left Sheffield late ish on wednesday night, drove down to watford in time to be plied with alcohol and food by Nat's family before heading on in the morning (thur) to dover and then across to dunkerque.
We should have been able to climb on thur however the parisiens had unkindly blocked paris ring road and it took a bloody age to get to font. We stayed at the maisonbleau which is right near buthiers (SW font). It was amazing, especially due to the great deal that Neil did for us. Thanks for that.
It rained that night and I was feeling a bit annoyed on friday morning after all its a long drive if it rains constantly, anyway the skys were blue so we headed out to check out project no1. Atomic playboy, this tackles a thin seem on a gently overhanging wall traversing r-l then up. The feet are huge and as it's 8a+ you can all guess what the hand holds are like. Anyway the curved top of the boulder hadn't fought the rain and the water was running down the line of holds. Bollocks.
We headed over to elephant and pootled about on bits and bobs to get used to Font again. Nat doing markedly better than last time on her very first problem which was impressive even if she seems to be less than happy with her rapid rate of improvement (I don't think she understands quite how long climbing actually takes to establish yourself at a reasonable level). After elephant we went the Cuvier Rampart for me to get spanked by c'etait demain and to watch Pete and Doyle get spanked by the watchtower. They left for cell block forumla 1 we stayed later.
Sat was the best conditions I have ever experienced in font, blue skies, it was cold (frost on the car), we headed to isatis mainly for Natalie, we arrived to see pete dispatch Sur-prises first go of this session. Nat and I warmed up while Mawson tried that crimpy 7b+, pete offered a hold cleaning service from a nearby (flimsy) sappling, he was high, hilarious to watch. Nat did a few more good things including a few reds before we ended up at El Poussif El Poussah, I pulled on el poussah and dispatched it swiftly (its always been a battle), it's so much nicer when its cold, I then settled a long standing battle with El Poussif (pic to follow, the only one due to shitty camera syndrome). Neil turned up afer bottling the last move of l'arrache couer and with directions from Pete dispatched El Poussah the crazy french way with your toe above your head, that sequence is the epitomy of weird climbing gayness.
I then went up to try Dolce vita beta and stopped to look at l'arrache couer, my god is it high but what a line. Dolce vita didn't go but I did get close crimping ripples that i'm sure are for your thumbs. Did another 7b up here and a couple of easy 7a+'s (read soft). We then sacked it to cuisinere.
After re-warming up I got involved with karma, suprised myself by holding the sloper 1st got and moving my heel on, this happened a few times but the heel just wouldn't sit in the right place, I then tried jumping crossed over and bearly quadrospazzed myself, tiring I decided to quit. More mileage with nat and then the day ended (it was nearly dark) with pete hurling himself around on double entorse, he got it. Doyle and I got involved with a 7a+ nearby, it was sharp and unpleasant and a heel we discounted could of saved us both some pain (and potentially some cod finger)....
and so to the other item in the title, my (now renamed) collateral ligament sprain aka pollock finger remains, my right hand ring finger has picked up a more traditional feeling of cod finger. Bollocks, I am so fed up of being injured.
The next day it rained, so we left. Watching pete pour pints over himself on the ferry was very entertaining.
We left Sheffield late ish on wednesday night, drove down to watford in time to be plied with alcohol and food by Nat's family before heading on in the morning (thur) to dover and then across to dunkerque.
We should have been able to climb on thur however the parisiens had unkindly blocked paris ring road and it took a bloody age to get to font. We stayed at the maisonbleau which is right near buthiers (SW font). It was amazing, especially due to the great deal that Neil did for us. Thanks for that.
It rained that night and I was feeling a bit annoyed on friday morning after all its a long drive if it rains constantly, anyway the skys were blue so we headed out to check out project no1. Atomic playboy, this tackles a thin seem on a gently overhanging wall traversing r-l then up. The feet are huge and as it's 8a+ you can all guess what the hand holds are like. Anyway the curved top of the boulder hadn't fought the rain and the water was running down the line of holds. Bollocks.
We headed over to elephant and pootled about on bits and bobs to get used to Font again. Nat doing markedly better than last time on her very first problem which was impressive even if she seems to be less than happy with her rapid rate of improvement (I don't think she understands quite how long climbing actually takes to establish yourself at a reasonable level). After elephant we went the Cuvier Rampart for me to get spanked by c'etait demain and to watch Pete and Doyle get spanked by the watchtower. They left for cell block forumla 1 we stayed later.
Sat was the best conditions I have ever experienced in font, blue skies, it was cold (frost on the car), we headed to isatis mainly for Natalie, we arrived to see pete dispatch Sur-prises first go of this session. Nat and I warmed up while Mawson tried that crimpy 7b+, pete offered a hold cleaning service from a nearby (flimsy) sappling, he was high, hilarious to watch. Nat did a few more good things including a few reds before we ended up at El Poussif El Poussah, I pulled on el poussah and dispatched it swiftly (its always been a battle), it's so much nicer when its cold, I then settled a long standing battle with El Poussif (pic to follow, the only one due to shitty camera syndrome). Neil turned up afer bottling the last move of l'arrache couer and with directions from Pete dispatched El Poussah the crazy french way with your toe above your head, that sequence is the epitomy of weird climbing gayness.
I then went up to try Dolce vita beta and stopped to look at l'arrache couer, my god is it high but what a line. Dolce vita didn't go but I did get close crimping ripples that i'm sure are for your thumbs. Did another 7b up here and a couple of easy 7a+'s (read soft). We then sacked it to cuisinere.
After re-warming up I got involved with karma, suprised myself by holding the sloper 1st got and moving my heel on, this happened a few times but the heel just wouldn't sit in the right place, I then tried jumping crossed over and bearly quadrospazzed myself, tiring I decided to quit. More mileage with nat and then the day ended (it was nearly dark) with pete hurling himself around on double entorse, he got it. Doyle and I got involved with a 7a+ nearby, it was sharp and unpleasant and a heel we discounted could of saved us both some pain (and potentially some cod finger)....
and so to the other item in the title, my (now renamed) collateral ligament sprain aka pollock finger remains, my right hand ring finger has picked up a more traditional feeling of cod finger. Bollocks, I am so fed up of being injured.
The next day it rained, so we left. Watching pete pour pints over himself on the ferry was very entertaining.
Saturday 17 November 2007
Better late than never!
Well I havent posted in ages as i'm useless, i'm getting quite psyched for my phd stuff which is good news as I am going to be doing it for roughly 3 more years. I managed to output a colourful animation after about a weeks worth of effort on a 2d simulation, all of my main work will be 3d and requires stupid processing power. Douglas (one of the other blokes in the office) currently has the computer I will be using, it is UBER powerful.
It's too long ago to remember specifics about my climbing/training. Basically last week I did stuey first go on the monday, did it again on the wed and the thursday. I did the same with my circuit and ticked off snot earlier this week (putting on dragons made it a lot easier rather than floppy anasazi's). I was psyched to get out today as the weather looks top but instead Nat and I did loads of stuff that really needed sorting. She's taken 3 days off around next weekend and we're off to Font. I am absoloutely psyched out of my mind as my finger feels ok (touch wood) and I think i'm almost as strong as i've ever been! The list of things I want to tick is fairly long and far too hard, i'll be happy to tick just one off.
Nat and I have been questing around to try and find some fem boots for her that fit better than jackie's second hand stinky wasabi's to no avail, the only boots that seem to fit are rockette's and I don't really think they'll be at all useful for the level she's currently at.
I'm going to point her at the Marie Rose and see how she does.
I might go out tomorrow, I need to open my account on inertia real trav in a proper way last time it was just way too hot and I knew that before even putting on my boots, however its worth popping over there just for the roads (not the A5 and the donut van that hides around bends!!!), Top Gear missed that road i'm afraid.
Bad news about foley, I hope he has a speedy recovery...
Oh - and thanks to dobbin I have now found THE BLOG OF NED, and confirmed that keith's blog IS keiths blog (incidentally keith, doyle and mawson might also be out in font next weekend)...
Dobbin if you're reading this, the crux crimp on Basic Knitwear is deteriorating fast! I taped over it but it needs some TLC, i'll probably not be up there in a while...Maybe a decent scew on replacement to use for your foot? what'ya reckon?
It's too long ago to remember specifics about my climbing/training. Basically last week I did stuey first go on the monday, did it again on the wed and the thursday. I did the same with my circuit and ticked off snot earlier this week (putting on dragons made it a lot easier rather than floppy anasazi's). I was psyched to get out today as the weather looks top but instead Nat and I did loads of stuff that really needed sorting. She's taken 3 days off around next weekend and we're off to Font. I am absoloutely psyched out of my mind as my finger feels ok (touch wood) and I think i'm almost as strong as i've ever been! The list of things I want to tick is fairly long and far too hard, i'll be happy to tick just one off.
Nat and I have been questing around to try and find some fem boots for her that fit better than jackie's second hand stinky wasabi's to no avail, the only boots that seem to fit are rockette's and I don't really think they'll be at all useful for the level she's currently at.
I'm going to point her at the Marie Rose and see how she does.
I might go out tomorrow, I need to open my account on inertia real trav in a proper way last time it was just way too hot and I knew that before even putting on my boots, however its worth popping over there just for the roads (not the A5 and the donut van that hides around bends!!!), Top Gear missed that road i'm afraid.
Bad news about foley, I hope he has a speedy recovery...
Oh - and thanks to dobbin I have now found THE BLOG OF NED, and confirmed that keith's blog IS keiths blog (incidentally keith, doyle and mawson might also be out in font next weekend)...
Dobbin if you're reading this, the crux crimp on Basic Knitwear is deteriorating fast! I taped over it but it needs some TLC, i'll probably not be up there in a while...Maybe a decent scew on replacement to use for your foot? what'ya reckon?
Monday 5 November 2007
Lot's more climbing!!!
I can't really remember what I did last week in terms of training, all I remember is that I rather foolishly decided not to tape on wednesday as my finger was feeling fine. The session went really well. I remembered some absoloute classics. Ben you have to get on these which I later added to the guide. The next day my finger rebelled and I sat there nursing it slightly pissed off.
Nat has started hassling me to take her out on the grit as she enjoyed font so much, and the previous weekend so when Saturday came we got up early and headed for the Burbage South boulders hoping that our early start would prevent us meeting hoards of university beginners. We parked at the fox house to get a little wet and see a hanging mist in the valley. Higgar wasn't visible. A quick phonecall to lee found the lazy git asleep, dobbin was up but still in Sheffield (thanks for your later text about conditions out near stoney). The stone wall that you cross on the way to BBG south was dry ish so we decided to wander in. The cioch is an amazing bit of rock and it looked as if someone had recently been on captain invincible, a seriously good line (and hard apparently).
As we got to the boulders the mist blew away and the sun came out. Nat and I climbed to mid afternoon. She did really well at BBG, it has got to be one of the best places to take someone to learn how to smear etc on grit (indeed perfect for my lack of footwork skill). I did a nice little problem (1 move(r)) called tiger which hurt my finger. I tried a problem on the other side which jump starts, put my right leg against the wall, pushed hard, collapse on mate cradling my leg. OUCH so it can't do that anymore...It wasn't long before we were getting hungry so we set off for the little john in hathersage for a stupidly large lunch.
On Sunday we went to the roaches (rumours have it that it's also good for beginners), the spring boulders we're surrounded by marsh land so we sacked that idea off and went to the boulders nearer the lower tier. Both of us did a few easy things before Nat's sking gave in. Rather than persist we headed back to Sheffield in time to catch her folks on the way past for lunch.
A really good weekend and this whole getting your girlfriend to climb thing seems to be paying off with me spending more time on rock over the last two weeks than I can remember (when not on holiday).
I'm currently doing some CFD stuff which is pretty challenging and trying to decide whether my finger is ready for the board. I think so but I cannot be bothered to walk!
Nat has started hassling me to take her out on the grit as she enjoyed font so much, and the previous weekend so when Saturday came we got up early and headed for the Burbage South boulders hoping that our early start would prevent us meeting hoards of university beginners. We parked at the fox house to get a little wet and see a hanging mist in the valley. Higgar wasn't visible. A quick phonecall to lee found the lazy git asleep, dobbin was up but still in Sheffield (thanks for your later text about conditions out near stoney). The stone wall that you cross on the way to BBG south was dry ish so we decided to wander in. The cioch is an amazing bit of rock and it looked as if someone had recently been on captain invincible, a seriously good line (and hard apparently).
As we got to the boulders the mist blew away and the sun came out. Nat and I climbed to mid afternoon. She did really well at BBG, it has got to be one of the best places to take someone to learn how to smear etc on grit (indeed perfect for my lack of footwork skill). I did a nice little problem (1 move(r)) called tiger which hurt my finger. I tried a problem on the other side which jump starts, put my right leg against the wall, pushed hard, collapse on mate cradling my leg. OUCH so it can't do that anymore...It wasn't long before we were getting hungry so we set off for the little john in hathersage for a stupidly large lunch.
On Sunday we went to the roaches (rumours have it that it's also good for beginners), the spring boulders we're surrounded by marsh land so we sacked that idea off and went to the boulders nearer the lower tier. Both of us did a few easy things before Nat's sking gave in. Rather than persist we headed back to Sheffield in time to catch her folks on the way past for lunch.
A really good weekend and this whole getting your girlfriend to climb thing seems to be paying off with me spending more time on rock over the last two weeks than I can remember (when not on holiday).
I'm currently doing some CFD stuff which is pretty challenging and trying to decide whether my finger is ready for the board. I think so but I cannot be bothered to walk!
Tuesday 30 October 2007
Lots of Climbing
Lot of climbing to report since last blog. Friday night was spent on the board with a large crowd. Keith looking very strong on Feel the Pinch which he WILL tick pretty quickly i'm sure. Had a couple of goes on stuey, keith pointed out that the guide is incorrect and hence my foot sequence isn't allowed. I change but still persist on adding foot faff that was just removed by last sequence. Ponce around a bit on some other problems, feeling fairly good but to be honest i'd hope for more. Eliminate foot faff and have a few goes on stuey, each one being better than the last until that first move (now a litte more powerful) had me sapped. Did a few other things then left.
On checking the forecast for the weekend late that night we decided saturday was looking the best, most of you know, it wasn't. We got to the stride at around 10am managed to find a couple of easy slabs that were dry for Nat to play on. We then wandered over to cratcliffe and I proceeded to make my digits bleed trying wet problems. A quick check of the top boulders (wet), before we headed back to the works. By this time I was knackered I simply don't ever do two days on. Sunday; Rest, and the weather looked much better so I sit and curse the weatherman. One of my freinds from uni is in the peak and stayed over to try and climb on monday.
Monday: We (Me and James Blay) went out to plantation, walking up we got soaked despite the sky being completely cloud free (que more cursing of the weatherman). NTBTA, the Storm, Brad Pit, all soaked. We head over to the pebble area and play around on Deliverance, I was pleased to find the traverse into the flake absoloutely piss showing my footwork to have improved drastically. We both had a few decent goes on this and then I did several laps of the full green traverse (because I like it and all the eliminates I know on it).
My folks stopped in for lunch that day on the way back from visiting my uncle. James borrowed (my only) set of flat keys to go and remove his gear from his car. Minutes later my phone rang, the fool had managed to lock my keys and HIS, in the boot of his old volvo..He asked if I had any experience of braking into cars, which I dont. Despite this I grabbed my toolkit and went down to his aid. A bit of pondering went on between us, james' rage showing through as he was eyeing up which window to smash/punch out. Anyway: crimp the top of the door, flat edged screwdriver in to create small gap, another driver in the side gap. Next an extra long zip tie was fastened to leave a small loop and a long tail, feed this down the side of the door and hook it onto the central locking pin. Pull tight, pull upwards and we're in. Not a mark on the car either. Very fun. Volvo 440's aren't exactly secure then, it took around 15s.
In the evening myself and masonic dave went up the board. I had a few more goes on stuey (as ever) but I was far from psyched for it. As Dave was trying (and succesffuly climbed) Turd Reich, I left him to it rather than sweat up the pinch. Instead I did a load of stuff on the cressbrook board, including uncle crimpy guts and my own problem, both of which fealt like a path. I did a bit on the 30 deg board afterwards but my finger started to feel a bit crunchy. Bench press then home.
I'm quite impressed with the amount of climbing I have managed over the last few days.
On checking the forecast for the weekend late that night we decided saturday was looking the best, most of you know, it wasn't. We got to the stride at around 10am managed to find a couple of easy slabs that were dry for Nat to play on. We then wandered over to cratcliffe and I proceeded to make my digits bleed trying wet problems. A quick check of the top boulders (wet), before we headed back to the works. By this time I was knackered I simply don't ever do two days on. Sunday; Rest, and the weather looked much better so I sit and curse the weatherman. One of my freinds from uni is in the peak and stayed over to try and climb on monday.
Monday: We (Me and James Blay) went out to plantation, walking up we got soaked despite the sky being completely cloud free (que more cursing of the weatherman). NTBTA, the Storm, Brad Pit, all soaked. We head over to the pebble area and play around on Deliverance, I was pleased to find the traverse into the flake absoloutely piss showing my footwork to have improved drastically. We both had a few decent goes on this and then I did several laps of the full green traverse (because I like it and all the eliminates I know on it).
My folks stopped in for lunch that day on the way back from visiting my uncle. James borrowed (my only) set of flat keys to go and remove his gear from his car. Minutes later my phone rang, the fool had managed to lock my keys and HIS, in the boot of his old volvo..He asked if I had any experience of braking into cars, which I dont. Despite this I grabbed my toolkit and went down to his aid. A bit of pondering went on between us, james' rage showing through as he was eyeing up which window to smash/punch out. Anyway: crimp the top of the door, flat edged screwdriver in to create small gap, another driver in the side gap. Next an extra long zip tie was fastened to leave a small loop and a long tail, feed this down the side of the door and hook it onto the central locking pin. Pull tight, pull upwards and we're in. Not a mark on the car either. Very fun. Volvo 440's aren't exactly secure then, it took around 15s.
In the evening myself and masonic dave went up the board. I had a few more goes on stuey (as ever) but I was far from psyched for it. As Dave was trying (and succesffuly climbed) Turd Reich, I left him to it rather than sweat up the pinch. Instead I did a load of stuff on the cressbrook board, including uncle crimpy guts and my own problem, both of which fealt like a path. I did a bit on the 30 deg board afterwards but my finger started to feel a bit crunchy. Bench press then home.
I'm quite impressed with the amount of climbing I have managed over the last few days.
Thursday 25 October 2007
EUREKA!
cip07pb logged on to ICEBERG. Now I can actually see things, all I need to do is learn CFD modelling, thats what the PHD is for.
From HERO to ZER0
Monday night I ventured up the board, i'd been avoiding it due to my finger swelling up on even large holds which lets be fair: the board has very little of.
Warmed up well, lock was feeling good etc. Pointed dobbin at my as yet unamed new ish 7b(+). Had a quick go at stuey, feeling really strong on the pinch, and the swing but drop it, another go shows temperatures to be far from ideal. There were a lot of bodies in the room, still good to see the place busy ish sessions can be very dull up there alone. Had a quick go at snot, half hearted but just to see how it was feeling, my conclusion is doable but first I should finish stuey. Tried my HARD problem, did well on it but again my thoughts were on the slightly warm conditions so I did a few ticky odds and ends before getting onto my circuit of doom! Pulled on to Total Recoil BB, onto the small pinch did a double snatch caused by grease and stepped off very angry. Next go I got through that move (shakily) and headed up to the top, down basic jez, across into basic bowie, up to the crimp then the little pinch, feeling wrecked now, pull foot up and then sag down onto the mat after a pitiful slap. Pleased with my effort, warm down with some footless problems and then do some bench press. A really good session despite it being AGES since I trained up there...
Yesterday I rested and wasted lots of time configuring random remote access clients for use with a university super computer. At the end of the day I still couldnt logon.
Up early today which was novel, again spend ages faffing to get nowhere, well not nowehere I can logon, I just can't do anything, well I can but it wont show me it.
Walked up the board still psyched from Mon's session. Warm up feeling pretty rubbish, have to try a bit too hard on basic jez...Add a few others to my warm up to make sure its not just a slow start, try basic ben and drop c45 and again drop c45 and again...you get the picture. Instead of trashing myself I realised that I probably overdid it on monday and call it a night after about 40 mins. I chose to console myself later by getting some food from the broomhill friary, it seems to me that this establishments has gone seriously down hill over the last 6 months. Boo HISS!
Looking forward to the weekend now, hopefully Nat and I will have no suprise visits from her brother and be able to get out and do some easy bouldering. Not looking forward to the crowds to be honest but I think I may have a plan.
Turns out my Ipod is one of the few models where the volume can't be uncapped, which is a shame but maybe its time to splash out on some funky headphones? who knows.
oh - Keith was up the board when I arrived, filming himself on Feel the pinch, supposedly he's been getting very close (c45), he's going for the womens way of jumping rather than my beefy lock beta, granted i'm yet to do it that way but a climing shire horse should surely be tempted by the beefier option? I also believe that if he is to do it, that it would be its only repeat?
Warmed up well, lock was feeling good etc. Pointed dobbin at my as yet unamed new ish 7b(+). Had a quick go at stuey, feeling really strong on the pinch, and the swing but drop it, another go shows temperatures to be far from ideal. There were a lot of bodies in the room, still good to see the place busy ish sessions can be very dull up there alone. Had a quick go at snot, half hearted but just to see how it was feeling, my conclusion is doable but first I should finish stuey. Tried my HARD problem, did well on it but again my thoughts were on the slightly warm conditions so I did a few ticky odds and ends before getting onto my circuit of doom! Pulled on to Total Recoil BB, onto the small pinch did a double snatch caused by grease and stepped off very angry. Next go I got through that move (shakily) and headed up to the top, down basic jez, across into basic bowie, up to the crimp then the little pinch, feeling wrecked now, pull foot up and then sag down onto the mat after a pitiful slap. Pleased with my effort, warm down with some footless problems and then do some bench press. A really good session despite it being AGES since I trained up there...
Yesterday I rested and wasted lots of time configuring random remote access clients for use with a university super computer. At the end of the day I still couldnt logon.
Up early today which was novel, again spend ages faffing to get nowhere, well not nowehere I can logon, I just can't do anything, well I can but it wont show me it.
Walked up the board still psyched from Mon's session. Warm up feeling pretty rubbish, have to try a bit too hard on basic jez...Add a few others to my warm up to make sure its not just a slow start, try basic ben and drop c45 and again drop c45 and again...you get the picture. Instead of trashing myself I realised that I probably overdid it on monday and call it a night after about 40 mins. I chose to console myself later by getting some food from the broomhill friary, it seems to me that this establishments has gone seriously down hill over the last 6 months. Boo HISS!
Looking forward to the weekend now, hopefully Nat and I will have no suprise visits from her brother and be able to get out and do some easy bouldering. Not looking forward to the crowds to be honest but I think I may have a plan.
Turns out my Ipod is one of the few models where the volume can't be uncapped, which is a shame but maybe its time to splash out on some funky headphones? who knows.
oh - Keith was up the board when I arrived, filming himself on Feel the pinch, supposedly he's been getting very close (c45), he's going for the womens way of jumping rather than my beefy lock beta, granted i'm yet to do it that way but a climing shire horse should surely be tempted by the beefier option? I also believe that if he is to do it, that it would be its only repeat?
Sunday 21 October 2007
Catch Up Blog...
Bascially after my finger stopped hurting I had a session down the works, I tried to take it easy but failed miserably, that, and taking my tape off mid session left me with a very sore finger the next morning. After sulking a bit and posting on UKB I went to the works when 'The Clinic' offer a free consulation period (and cheap treatment). Rick had a prod a twist etc. of my finger and then told me that it was probably a ligament strain, he gave it a bit of deep friction massage and told me to tape a lot and climb trying not to aggrivate it. Ice after climbing and deep friction massage every couple of days. He also said that pulling hard wasn't ruled out and as long as it doesnt hurt then i'm ok. On that note I had a session today, a bit of an odd one as Nat's brother is down and for some reason she wanted him to try climbing. Now just to be clear he isnt the type of person that would usually come to climb, you all know the type. In the end I just got on with my session and left them to it. A long warm up, no pain so I progressed to harder and harder problems, got on the grey problem on the comp wall and dropped it on the final moves, damnm. My finger started to get a little sore so i re-tightened the tape and tried again, no problem. After a bit I called it quits and warmed down, no soreness at all, RESULT! Next session i shall be mostly be climbing on THE board. The new black circuit was begining to emerge and my first impression weren't good, the steep steep bit of wall where the hanging slab was is now littered with humungus holds, ruining the best red problem and probably leaving it a bit cr*p for all future hard problems.
Watched the rugby this evening, disapointing result but a good game and a good impovement over the tournament, hopefully Lewis Hamilton will give us a win tomorrow to make up for it but I doubt it, too much pressure?
Dobbin emailed me the last edition of the school guides for editing and re-binding through free university facilities so expect a few changes, get any projects/new problems written down (legibly if possible) and i'll do my best to stick them in.
Its very late now an all thats on is twister. Damn you coca cola.
Watched the rugby this evening, disapointing result but a good game and a good impovement over the tournament, hopefully Lewis Hamilton will give us a win tomorrow to make up for it but I doubt it, too much pressure?
Dobbin emailed me the last edition of the school guides for editing and re-binding through free university facilities so expect a few changes, get any projects/new problems written down (legibly if possible) and i'll do my best to stick them in.
Its very late now an all thats on is twister. Damn you coca cola.
Sunday 14 October 2007
Superset
Taken from http://climbingworks.blogspot.com:
Truely Worrying....
My finger has finally stopped being swollen and irritating, I feel like I could start climbing again lightly but can't really decide if its just going to flare back up again and I should give it more time?
I decided to split my gym workout as well, instead of having one body destroying session every other day I now have two' superset' sessions on alternate days. Takes a lot of effort to be arsed to go to the gym compared to the board etc.
Committed premier tonight at the works, I think Nat and I will probably go as I doubt i'll buy the DVD, hopefully it doesn't play too much on the danger side of headpointing too much or it might become tedious, the various voice overs on the trailer seem to.
oh, just to show how on the ball Sheffield Uni are: Yesterday I recieved an offer letter after starting 2/3 weeks ago....
Thursday 11 October 2007
Testing and Gym Culture
At the start of the week the odd feeling cod finger hadn't improved or got any worse, i've been holding back my board visits in the hope it might just go away. This hasn't happened so I went down to the works to try and identify what was wrong with it and therefore what on earth I should do, the night wasn't really conclusive, warming up it was feelign fine until a sharp jug put pressure on it, after I stepped off it didn't hurt, carried on warming up and something felt a bit sore on one of the reds but again nothing I could put my finger on, I carried on warming up, did some probems with Dave and he corrected the crap beta travs gave me on a new problem on the training board (given 8a+), the first move that had been kicking my ass went first go and dave promptly ticked the problem. Sat down and Mike Lea (Lee maybe?) started discussing the school and told me how happy it would make him to see the boards burn, did someone pick on him while he was up there or something? He certainly spoke of the place in a bitter way.
Anyway the next morning my finger was a little sore in the side, for this reason I decided i'll take a break rather than risk making it worse, i mean whats two weeks off compared to five months? and its not as if getting back to strength was taking ages.
Due to the above, I headed to cancel my gym membership (that i forgot about completely), it has a 30 day cancellation clause so I can use it in my rest time. I decided while I was there I should make use of the 40 min walk each way and have a session:
Bench Press
Fly
Shoulder Press
Behind Neck Shoulder Press
Incline Bench
Curls
Tricep Extensions
Upright Row
Lower Back
Leg Raises
Lat Pull Down
Seated Row
Vertical Traxion
...collapse in sauna. The soreness is still with me!
Que rant: Why at these gyms do people hand out stupid advice? For instance, why is the 60 year old man with a huge beer gut doing crunches? It's a waste of his time, get on the treadmill eat less rubbish and it'll go, rock around 30 times on a mat and it will not. Incidentally why is it that the same people seem to have some kind of nudist streak and insist on doing absoloutely everything they possibly can in the changing rooms nude? Hair Drying, Shaving, Weighing themselves....
On another note, I found an available unit for the school (Don't get too excited people its pricey), 1700 sqft, £7250 per annum 18ft ceilings (or so i'm told), parking and just down the road from the school (Edmund Rd), waiting for the bloke to call me back about the rental agreement to see how it would need to be paid. I've spent a while looking and THIS is the only unit that seems to suit. Let's see if others have done better or more importantly come crunch time who'll put their money where their mouth is!!!
Was at the works last night for a bit of spotting duty, to be honest I was pretty unimpressed to see what had been put up on the new steep boards, the hardest problems (excluding the volume nonsense) looked on for the flash, or am I way off? (The grey one up the 55 deg and the green up the far right section?), I hope there's smaller holds to come, all the holds seemed pretty big, disapointing. You'll be pleased to see though that the kiddies boulder now has a rainbow painted on it! Great stuff....?
Anyway the next morning my finger was a little sore in the side, for this reason I decided i'll take a break rather than risk making it worse, i mean whats two weeks off compared to five months? and its not as if getting back to strength was taking ages.
Due to the above, I headed to cancel my gym membership (that i forgot about completely), it has a 30 day cancellation clause so I can use it in my rest time. I decided while I was there I should make use of the 40 min walk each way and have a session:
Bench Press
Fly
Shoulder Press
Behind Neck Shoulder Press
Incline Bench
Curls
Tricep Extensions
Upright Row
Lower Back
Leg Raises
Lat Pull Down
Seated Row
Vertical Traxion
...collapse in sauna. The soreness is still with me!
Que rant: Why at these gyms do people hand out stupid advice? For instance, why is the 60 year old man with a huge beer gut doing crunches? It's a waste of his time, get on the treadmill eat less rubbish and it'll go, rock around 30 times on a mat and it will not. Incidentally why is it that the same people seem to have some kind of nudist streak and insist on doing absoloutely everything they possibly can in the changing rooms nude? Hair Drying, Shaving, Weighing themselves....
On another note, I found an available unit for the school (Don't get too excited people its pricey), 1700 sqft, £7250 per annum 18ft ceilings (or so i'm told), parking and just down the road from the school (Edmund Rd), waiting for the bloke to call me back about the rental agreement to see how it would need to be paid. I've spent a while looking and THIS is the only unit that seems to suit. Let's see if others have done better or more importantly come crunch time who'll put their money where their mouth is!!!
Was at the works last night for a bit of spotting duty, to be honest I was pretty unimpressed to see what had been put up on the new steep boards, the hardest problems (excluding the volume nonsense) looked on for the flash, or am I way off? (The grey one up the 55 deg and the green up the far right section?), I hope there's smaller holds to come, all the holds seemed pretty big, disapointing. You'll be pleased to see though that the kiddies boulder now has a rainbow painted on it! Great stuff....?
Monday 8 October 2007
Lacklustre...
Well a week passed by with me trying my best to nurse my finger back to full strength unfortunately to no avail. The annoying thing is I don't have a clue what is wrong with it, its not the usual ring finger crimping demon injury its the index finger and it doesnt really bother me when i'm climbing (i'm just very aware that a previous irritation on a finger got significantly worse because I tried to convince myself it didn't exist). Using my nail to prod the bottom pulley (probably a bad idea) I can't find any one point that is particularly sore, slightly to one side an area is a bit tender but it seems likely thats it been caused by all the testing. Open handing doesn't hurt, crimping doesnt seem to either and my last two sessions where I tried to take it easy ended up with me on red's with no problem during or after apart from something feeling a bit weird with the finger (no pain). Maybe its some kind of crush injury caused by my last attempt on stuey? or maybe a ligament sprain caused by pinching too hard too early in a session (again on stuey...), I really don't want it to get worse but conversely I dont want to take time off uncessesarily...Anyone got any ideas? I've checked climbinginjuries.com and initially thought it was a sprain but now i'm less than certain...
On friday I had my first go at teaching, I felt like a bit of a fraud as I know very little more than them on the subject of the module however the session went by without any major hiccups, however everyone taking it seemed to be ill, I woke up on saturday with little more than a sore throat but by the looks of it Nat has managed to catch the whole lot off me, she wasn't in the best mood today before work for that reason.
Right better do some (more) reading, I'm guessing I shouldn't train this evening but I desperately want to find out what is really up with this finger and what it can cope with...
Oh Top Gear returned this weekend, very unimpressed by it. The cars seem to become less and less of a focus, although I have to admit I did like the look of the roads around magic wood and the boy racer styling of the Golf GTI 640 (very clio V6 esque, Andi_E speaks sense)...
On friday I had my first go at teaching, I felt like a bit of a fraud as I know very little more than them on the subject of the module however the session went by without any major hiccups, however everyone taking it seemed to be ill, I woke up on saturday with little more than a sore throat but by the looks of it Nat has managed to catch the whole lot off me, she wasn't in the best mood today before work for that reason.
Right better do some (more) reading, I'm guessing I shouldn't train this evening but I desperately want to find out what is really up with this finger and what it can cope with...
Oh Top Gear returned this weekend, very unimpressed by it. The cars seem to become less and less of a focus, although I have to admit I did like the look of the roads around magic wood and the boy racer styling of the Golf GTI 640 (very clio V6 esque, Andi_E speaks sense)...
Monday 1 October 2007
Car Bore
For anyone who reads this and isn't interested in cars, dont worry there is a climbing bore post below this one. Anyway i've just seen this, the new mini clubman:
and think it deserves to go in the same hall of fame as the renault vel satis, BMW what have you done!
On the same show I also saw the new fiat 500, looks like an awesome little car which sounded pretty sporty for a small car (nice exhaust note)...The interior looked alright unlike the panda etc.
Anyway a van is still the most appealing option at the minute, there's a tasteful vw t4 thats often at the works (blue, lowered, alloys), anyone know who owns it?
Today was also the first day of my PHD, I was very suprised at how little everyone was doing and even more so when my supervisor showed up and said "ooh, didn't expect to see you here today", its my first day!!!
Woodwell, School...
After my last post this was sitting in my pm box:
Just read the last post on your blog and thought I'd just confirm that the quote about The School "back in the day" is total bollocks. Although I was never a particularly regular visitor to The School (my own board took up most of my time) I went quite a few times and knew pretty much everyone who did go regularly from when it was built. This halcyon view of 30 (?) or so people all happily training in their own groups with punters bumbling about alongside Malc and Stuart is utter tosh. If anything more people use the place now (by the sound of things). I don't know why there is such a feeling of hostility towards the School and it's users. It just seems a bit sad. The place has always been slightly elitist but just because you need to climb pretty hard to get the most out of it and there is f*ck all wrong with that.
So that's clarified that!
Anyway, I finally got out last week. Initial plans for a Monday trip were ruined by the threat of bad weather, on wednesday I had to see a man about a cyclops (some piece of die tracing equipment) up near leeds/bradford. I slung my kit and mats into the car. I dropped Nat off at work (nice business park on the North side of Wakefield) and carried on further North hitting about as much of the rush hour traffic as is physically possible. After my meeting (which was pointless and didn't last long at all) I decided on my destination, now caley, Almscliffe etc would of been the logical choice but I was psyched to try something hard. Over to Woodwell it was then. Warmed up on all the steep easy problems which are mostly nice but I feel they lack a logical or good finishing hold? I then did some of the problems on the LHS, beauty of being etc. After that I had a brief hang on the Art of Self Destruction to warm up, must say the top bit felt far too easy to be F8a/V11 so I towelled off the soapy undercuts and gave it a go, the first move is a long way and the footlock LH up 1st beta was failing me, changed my sequence using more of a toe jam and RH up first and got matched up on the crimps, thumb over the sharp pointy bit. Tension and lift your foot up to the glassy polish then push for a reasonable pocket around the lip before finishing. Can't really say if it justifies the grade? It certainly isnt hard for the grade.
After this I had a large bit of cake and realised just how cold it was now that my jumper was covered in limestone gunk and water. I moved on to the next buttress and did the 7b traverse (name?) that starts after the hard section of anesthesia. I then tried it from the true start miles to the left, further than is logical even. The third ish move proved to be a stopper for me the LH hold being a bit too slopey. I decided to try it from the "better" crimps (1 move further on) and managed a good link past the jug on the 7b, stepped off at this point to try and reserve some energy for a decent push, this was futile however as my forearms were starting to feel as if i'd been using a steak hammer on them... A few half hearted attempts and I decided to call it a day, passed gregs free guide on to some guy who was using the Lancashire route guide as his bible, he was very pleased.
I had a board session on friday but was still tired, had a few good goes at my project but didn't manage it, dave mason was back and looking fairly strong.
Last night I had a board session with Lee, conditions seemed pretty rubbish suprisingly and it took me around 6 goes just to hold the swing on stuey, not a good sign. The next go however was to be the best i'd had. Pulled on, RH into U/cut, foot higher on kickboard, RF up to 1st u/cut, flick to pinch, adjust before matching feet and PULLING into the horizontal pinch, campus really hard, LH properly over the blue edge but no energy left to even try and fight the swing. DAMN, Lee even gave me a minute before the mocking started. Tried again but had no energy left...Next time surely?
Boring stuff below:
After an exchange of pm's with greg about the lines and stuff at woodwell I was left a bit confused. It seems (at least to me) that anesthesia has only had one true repeat by greg himself the other two seem to have been less than pure (not just for going high at the end), as they started one or two moves from the JG start, this has probably all come about from the stick it! footage, remember people sit down where you think it starts then move left until your 6" from the floor with your LH. IT STARTS HERE!!! It also turns out that the good link I put together gets a grade of its own, if you don't step off on the easy stuff. Stupid..Stupid.
Just read the last post on your blog and thought I'd just confirm that the quote about The School "back in the day" is total bollocks. Although I was never a particularly regular visitor to The School (my own board took up most of my time) I went quite a few times and knew pretty much everyone who did go regularly from when it was built. This halcyon view of 30 (?) or so people all happily training in their own groups with punters bumbling about alongside Malc and Stuart is utter tosh. If anything more people use the place now (by the sound of things). I don't know why there is such a feeling of hostility towards the School and it's users. It just seems a bit sad. The place has always been slightly elitist but just because you need to climb pretty hard to get the most out of it and there is f*ck all wrong with that.
So that's clarified that!
Anyway, I finally got out last week. Initial plans for a Monday trip were ruined by the threat of bad weather, on wednesday I had to see a man about a cyclops (some piece of die tracing equipment) up near leeds/bradford. I slung my kit and mats into the car. I dropped Nat off at work (nice business park on the North side of Wakefield) and carried on further North hitting about as much of the rush hour traffic as is physically possible. After my meeting (which was pointless and didn't last long at all) I decided on my destination, now caley, Almscliffe etc would of been the logical choice but I was psyched to try something hard. Over to Woodwell it was then. Warmed up on all the steep easy problems which are mostly nice but I feel they lack a logical or good finishing hold? I then did some of the problems on the LHS, beauty of being etc. After that I had a brief hang on the Art of Self Destruction to warm up, must say the top bit felt far too easy to be F8a/V11 so I towelled off the soapy undercuts and gave it a go, the first move is a long way and the footlock LH up 1st beta was failing me, changed my sequence using more of a toe jam and RH up first and got matched up on the crimps, thumb over the sharp pointy bit. Tension and lift your foot up to the glassy polish then push for a reasonable pocket around the lip before finishing. Can't really say if it justifies the grade? It certainly isnt hard for the grade.
After this I had a large bit of cake and realised just how cold it was now that my jumper was covered in limestone gunk and water. I moved on to the next buttress and did the 7b traverse (name?) that starts after the hard section of anesthesia. I then tried it from the true start miles to the left, further than is logical even. The third ish move proved to be a stopper for me the LH hold being a bit too slopey. I decided to try it from the "better" crimps (1 move further on) and managed a good link past the jug on the 7b, stepped off at this point to try and reserve some energy for a decent push, this was futile however as my forearms were starting to feel as if i'd been using a steak hammer on them... A few half hearted attempts and I decided to call it a day, passed gregs free guide on to some guy who was using the Lancashire route guide as his bible, he was very pleased.
I had a board session on friday but was still tired, had a few good goes at my project but didn't manage it, dave mason was back and looking fairly strong.
Last night I had a board session with Lee, conditions seemed pretty rubbish suprisingly and it took me around 6 goes just to hold the swing on stuey, not a good sign. The next go however was to be the best i'd had. Pulled on, RH into U/cut, foot higher on kickboard, RF up to 1st u/cut, flick to pinch, adjust before matching feet and PULLING into the horizontal pinch, campus really hard, LH properly over the blue edge but no energy left to even try and fight the swing. DAMN, Lee even gave me a minute before the mocking started. Tried again but had no energy left...Next time surely?
Boring stuff below:
After an exchange of pm's with greg about the lines and stuff at woodwell I was left a bit confused. It seems (at least to me) that anesthesia has only had one true repeat by greg himself the other two seem to have been less than pure (not just for going high at the end), as they started one or two moves from the JG start, this has probably all come about from the stick it! footage, remember people sit down where you think it starts then move left until your 6" from the floor with your LH. IT STARTS HERE!!! It also turns out that the good link I put together gets a grade of its own, if you don't step off on the easy stuff. Stupid..Stupid.
Tuesday 25 September 2007
Misinformed?
Bad posts on my behalf led to things on the Craig David thread to shift until they appeared to be more about character assasination, obviously this wasn't the intention and a strange exchange of pm's was prompted. I don't think he'll ever get why I'm worried about his actions, but it appears a consensus has been reached and a sensible one at that so i'm more than happy. On an aside one of the pm's threw up this:
"I don't know much about the schoolroom but it seems a shame that is has become so elitist. Talk to some of the older generation and they will tell you that back in the day the ethos was very much come one, come all. I've heard tales of it back in the day, when there were maybe thirty people there all at once, Ben and Jerry And Stu cranking like demons, general punters having a go, the girls doing their own thing, all in the same room. Maybe there are too many climbers in Sheffield now to be so inclusive, and to be honest I don't really care that much, but it seems a shame that this spirit has been lost."
I don't know what people who don't climb up the board think of it but supposedly it is madly elitist and not the way it used to be?
"I don't know much about the schoolroom but it seems a shame that is has become so elitist. Talk to some of the older generation and they will tell you that back in the day the ethos was very much come one, come all. I've heard tales of it back in the day, when there were maybe thirty people there all at once, Ben and Jerry And Stu cranking like demons, general punters having a go, the girls doing their own thing, all in the same room. Maybe there are too many climbers in Sheffield now to be so inclusive, and to be honest I don't really care that much, but it seems a shame that this spirit has been lost."
I don't know what people who don't climb up the board think of it but supposedly it is madly elitist and not the way it used to be?
Monday 24 September 2007
Too Fluffy...
Weather was rubbish today so the planned trip to woodwell was cancelled. Instead I went up the school again, warmed up well, it was quite cold. Got straight on stuey 5, 1st go held the crux swing, campussed up touched the blue hold but didn't quite have the height, this happened a load more times as below, failing on the campus move every time, just. Damn.
Eventually my goes got a bit worse so I sacked it off and did a pinch problem that I put up a few sessions agi, its really good although I haven't a clue how hard it is, I need someone else to get on it but its really good.
After that I tried a few things including Perky Pinky, damn those first two moves are hard. After a bit of channel surfing I got on Too Fluffy... First go my foot popped annoyingly, second go I had it which was good as its the first time i've done it since getting back up there...
A debate on UKB is once again stressing me, R-man and the omnipotent Polish Dave have been going to Craig David despite the access situation. Remarkably a large amount of people seem to think it's ok? Seems a little short sighted to me but anyhow i've had my bit say and will leave it at that.
Eventually my goes got a bit worse so I sacked it off and did a pinch problem that I put up a few sessions agi, its really good although I haven't a clue how hard it is, I need someone else to get on it but its really good.
After that I tried a few things including Perky Pinky, damn those first two moves are hard. After a bit of channel surfing I got on Too Fluffy... First go my foot popped annoyingly, second go I had it which was good as its the first time i've done it since getting back up there...
A debate on UKB is once again stressing me, R-man and the omnipotent Polish Dave have been going to Craig David despite the access situation. Remarkably a large amount of people seem to think it's ok? Seems a little short sighted to me but anyhow i've had my bit say and will leave it at that.
Friday 21 September 2007
Be Like Water My Friend...
Last nights session went well, conditions were poor so I only gave stuey a couple of goes. Did a nice new problem at around 7b-c ish and then sat down underneath Basic Doyle, turned to Lee and said "I won't do this", "just want to check how my fingers are feeling", two (relatively) good start holds, right hand up to the tiny edge, left foot as high as possible on the kick board, pull to the wooden crimp for LH, tension and get right foot onto the first little spike, snatch the yellow, take feet off, put left foot stupidly high on the little edge, Left hand up to Push It, feet swing off, by this time I was cursing not having bothered to put dragons on, rh green edge, feet off yet again, left hand c45, top....Psyched. I guess now I can stop winging about my fingers being behind the rest of me, its just my core thats lagging now. Bring on the swings on THE pinch...
Finished with weights so unsuprisingly I feel sore today....
Monday 17 September 2007
TasWAD and things...
It's been far too long since my last blog fairly SLACK of me given i haven't had a great deal on.
After spending too many sessions at the works I finally went back up the board and started having productive sessions, I had two good sessions one where Lee came and did weights (due to following ginger ned's advice and injuring himself). Both sessions I managed stuey in two hugely overlapping halves but by the time I had everything figured out the wooden pinch got overly warm and started spitting me off left right and center.
After the 1st session I took Nat to the works where we bumped into a guy (Callum white? a.k.a. TasWAD) who was over from Tasmania for the worlds (in spain), staying with Graeme before flying out. He seemed a decent bloke and was making light work of everything in the works so I invited him up the board so he could try some harder things. After warming up he promptly flashed Total Recoil/Pego (the harder one I can never remember which it is) and then Turd Reich. I was appropriately impressed so pointed him at Too fluffy to be hard... on the crux hump his foot stayed on the undercut.WTF? and he looked as if he was going to cruise it, unfortunately he failed going up to 45 and didn't make it up there again... I then pointed him at driller killer and basic ben, both of which he struggled with, however I was hugely impressed, he was only 17 as well...
The day after this I ended up at the works once again setting my "Signature" problem. I opted for something with small ish holds but not too hard, so it actually gets tried. Anyone done it? Dobbin? 7b? Nice/Ok/Shit? Fingers were feeling creaky the next day so I had a rest day. Nat's family arrived and we ate out (Clashed with the schoolroom meeting unfortunately) at the St.Pauls hotel in the city center, it was nice but afterwards drunken natalie took it upon herself to get her brother psyched up for clubbing, nice food and rubbish beer are not a good combination and I awoke on saturday feeling like a sack of sh*t, to be honest that feeling is still with me now. I trained again yesterday, expecting good conditions I went up to the board but it was really nasty up there, cold but slippy. After (finally) despatchng total recoil BB finish this session I tried stuey briefly and then went OLD SKOOL with power pulls. They're shit. My back hurts today but so does my neck and pelvis, if you get a decent amount of weight on that 'belt' of zippy's all that happen is that it tried to remove your legs when you stand up. Never again.
Natalie started work today in Wakefield and I went in to start the ball in motion for a module I have to Co-teach in the upcoming weeks....Scary stuff..
Oh and midweek Nat had her free photoshoot thing over in Manchester, here are a few:
(Will Dobbin's GQ shoot look similar I wonder?)
After spending too many sessions at the works I finally went back up the board and started having productive sessions, I had two good sessions one where Lee came and did weights (due to following ginger ned's advice and injuring himself). Both sessions I managed stuey in two hugely overlapping halves but by the time I had everything figured out the wooden pinch got overly warm and started spitting me off left right and center.
After the 1st session I took Nat to the works where we bumped into a guy (Callum white? a.k.a. TasWAD) who was over from Tasmania for the worlds (in spain), staying with Graeme before flying out. He seemed a decent bloke and was making light work of everything in the works so I invited him up the board so he could try some harder things. After warming up he promptly flashed Total Recoil/Pego (the harder one I can never remember which it is) and then Turd Reich. I was appropriately impressed so pointed him at Too fluffy to be hard... on the crux hump his foot stayed on the undercut.WTF? and he looked as if he was going to cruise it, unfortunately he failed going up to 45 and didn't make it up there again... I then pointed him at driller killer and basic ben, both of which he struggled with, however I was hugely impressed, he was only 17 as well...
The day after this I ended up at the works once again setting my "Signature" problem. I opted for something with small ish holds but not too hard, so it actually gets tried. Anyone done it? Dobbin? 7b? Nice/Ok/Shit? Fingers were feeling creaky the next day so I had a rest day. Nat's family arrived and we ate out (Clashed with the schoolroom meeting unfortunately) at the St.Pauls hotel in the city center, it was nice but afterwards drunken natalie took it upon herself to get her brother psyched up for clubbing, nice food and rubbish beer are not a good combination and I awoke on saturday feeling like a sack of sh*t, to be honest that feeling is still with me now. I trained again yesterday, expecting good conditions I went up to the board but it was really nasty up there, cold but slippy. After (finally) despatchng total recoil BB finish this session I tried stuey briefly and then went OLD SKOOL with power pulls. They're shit. My back hurts today but so does my neck and pelvis, if you get a decent amount of weight on that 'belt' of zippy's all that happen is that it tried to remove your legs when you stand up. Never again.
Natalie started work today in Wakefield and I went in to start the ball in motion for a module I have to Co-teach in the upcoming weeks....Scary stuff..
Oh and midweek Nat had her free photoshoot thing over in Manchester, here are a few:
(Will Dobbin's GQ shoot look similar I wonder?)
Friday 7 September 2007
Again?
Being a bit of a plonker I managed to leave all of my normal climbing gear in the boot of the car which went in for service on wednesday, with all of the hassle with warranties etc. the parts havent all been ordered then the garage had a call back from Fiat this morning saying "actually, if the drivers side is knackered change all of the front end" (he was referring to most of the front suspension that appears to be trashed), of course this means that they haven't ordered all of the parts and they wont arrive until today around closing time so it will be monday that the car is back to us and even then it needs to go to Hawley's to get the new tyres.
Nat headed down to the works around lunch time wearing an old pair of my evolv predators which weren't ideal and some filthy chalk bag from the depths of my box full of old cr*p. Like I predicted it was horrible and we didn't stay for long. Percy and Sam were route setting and showed me with great delight that they had managed to attach screw on's to the really nice square cut pusher slopers. One problem featured an additional screw-on, on each hold. I returned later that night and only used about half of them. As it was still hot the board seemed like a crazy idea so I went for mileage, trying to tick as many of the new red/pinks that just went up. Didn't get round to trying about 5 problems one of which I wont be going near without a big group of spotters. The rest were all relatively pleasant. In the "room" behind the comp wall a few were especially good, one involving a XXL pusher sloper and a fair deal of slapping, and the other going up the rhs of the newly steepened section.
Speaking to Sam the fate of the fixed board is set, it is to have all of the screw-ons left on and 20-25 'signature' problems put up for life, these will be taken down, cleaned and put up exactly the same if they become dirty. Will that conjure up more interest for that section? Personally I doubt it. I made the suggestion of loosing one side of the campus board and steepening up the other to create a board which was listened to and in my opinion is the only way they will be able to squeeze in a decent training board without loosing valuable seeting areas.
Nat headed down to the works around lunch time wearing an old pair of my evolv predators which weren't ideal and some filthy chalk bag from the depths of my box full of old cr*p. Like I predicted it was horrible and we didn't stay for long. Percy and Sam were route setting and showed me with great delight that they had managed to attach screw on's to the really nice square cut pusher slopers. One problem featured an additional screw-on, on each hold. I returned later that night and only used about half of them. As it was still hot the board seemed like a crazy idea so I went for mileage, trying to tick as many of the new red/pinks that just went up. Didn't get round to trying about 5 problems one of which I wont be going near without a big group of spotters. The rest were all relatively pleasant. In the "room" behind the comp wall a few were especially good, one involving a XXL pusher sloper and a fair deal of slapping, and the other going up the rhs of the newly steepened section.
Speaking to Sam the fate of the fixed board is set, it is to have all of the screw-ons left on and 20-25 'signature' problems put up for life, these will be taken down, cleaned and put up exactly the same if they become dirty. Will that conjure up more interest for that section? Personally I doubt it. I made the suggestion of loosing one side of the campus board and steepening up the other to create a board which was listened to and in my opinion is the only way they will be able to squeeze in a decent training board without loosing valuable seeting areas.
Wednesday 5 September 2007
Works x 2
Had two sessions down at the works, the 1st was fun but not too productive, the second was a last resort as the sun was beating down upon sheffield and the board seemed like a bad option.
The second session went well. Warmed up, then headed over to the comp wall and promptly flashed a nice basic purple up the barrel section of wall. A couple of goes later i also despatched the blue. Percy the Gnome and their merry band of men were trying all kind of faggotry, thankfully none of it worked and basic ruled the day.
Had a quick scout around Sam's evo 8. I've never been in an 8, they're really quite understated for the style of car that they are, prefer the 6 myself but its very nice and in mint condition. Talking of cars Nat's was due for the pre 1st MOT service after which it will no longer go to a registered Fiat dealer.
300 quid for the service. OUCH
140 quid for two Pirelli's up front. DOUBLE OUCH
30 quid for a Wheel alignment check
+ a massive ball ache of phoning various garages as the incompetent fool (who is now the general manager and away today) who sold us the car (reg Fiat dealership down souf) forgot to transfer the third year of the warranty into Natalie's name and hence some extra suspension components that need changing currently don't seem to be covered. Add to that the fact that the courtesy car has the same bhp output as a poodle and i'm not a happy bunny. It doesn't matter if you get 68 mpg etc. as the money you save on fuel will be plowed back to Fiat in servicing costs. ARRGGHHH.
Climbing well though.
The future of the school again looks uncertain and i'm amazed by the general lack of bebotherment from other members. It's been a small few that have really done anything to stop the initial closure and that seems a shame, I don't necessarily think anything will go ahead if more people don't pipe up and start giving a sh*t.
The second session went well. Warmed up, then headed over to the comp wall and promptly flashed a nice basic purple up the barrel section of wall. A couple of goes later i also despatched the blue. Percy the Gnome and their merry band of men were trying all kind of faggotry, thankfully none of it worked and basic ruled the day.
Had a quick scout around Sam's evo 8. I've never been in an 8, they're really quite understated for the style of car that they are, prefer the 6 myself but its very nice and in mint condition. Talking of cars Nat's was due for the pre 1st MOT service after which it will no longer go to a registered Fiat dealer.
300 quid for the service. OUCH
140 quid for two Pirelli's up front. DOUBLE OUCH
30 quid for a Wheel alignment check
+ a massive ball ache of phoning various garages as the incompetent fool (who is now the general manager and away today) who sold us the car (reg Fiat dealership down souf) forgot to transfer the third year of the warranty into Natalie's name and hence some extra suspension components that need changing currently don't seem to be covered. Add to that the fact that the courtesy car has the same bhp output as a poodle and i'm not a happy bunny. It doesn't matter if you get 68 mpg etc. as the money you save on fuel will be plowed back to Fiat in servicing costs. ARRGGHHH.
Climbing well though.
The future of the school again looks uncertain and i'm amazed by the general lack of bebotherment from other members. It's been a small few that have really done anything to stop the initial closure and that seems a shame, I don't necessarily think anything will go ahead if more people don't pipe up and start giving a sh*t.
Saturday 1 September 2007
...Basic Breakthroughs!
Trained on wednesday night with Doyle who was about doing his level 2. Instead of rambling on i'll keep it short, finally repeated Basic Knitwear which i've been struggling with since I started again, maybe I'm stronger or maybe it was better conditions who knows.
Yesterday Natalie and I went down the works, I didn't climb but was severely tempted the problems looked good and Dobbin recommended them as well. Instead of climbing I waited to train in the evening. Evening came and people dropped out of training like lemmings leaving me lacking psyche to go up the school all on my lonesome, instead I drove to the works. I spent about 5 minutes there before getting back in the car and going up the board. Session went well - ticked basic ben, easily as well, then went on to do a load more stuff around about that level. Uncle crimpy....is still evading me which is a bit annoying.
Glad to see some kind of improvement as before I left for Font I was beggining to fear a dreaded plateau. Weather looks good today, I think I should start taking more advantage of it and focus on getting back to full strength during the winter, but then again I hate off days outside, they just feel like such a waste so i'm not sure if its really worth it.
Went out briefly last night to the Harley (2 quid entry!) for em's leaving thingy but decided to call it a night when plug was 12 quid each to get in, some other people headed to DQ's. Dense spent the early evening recounting tales of Dawes on superman...
Yesterday Natalie and I went down the works, I didn't climb but was severely tempted the problems looked good and Dobbin recommended them as well. Instead of climbing I waited to train in the evening. Evening came and people dropped out of training like lemmings leaving me lacking psyche to go up the school all on my lonesome, instead I drove to the works. I spent about 5 minutes there before getting back in the car and going up the board. Session went well - ticked basic ben, easily as well, then went on to do a load more stuff around about that level. Uncle crimpy....is still evading me which is a bit annoying.
Glad to see some kind of improvement as before I left for Font I was beggining to fear a dreaded plateau. Weather looks good today, I think I should start taking more advantage of it and focus on getting back to full strength during the winter, but then again I hate off days outside, they just feel like such a waste so i'm not sure if its really worth it.
Went out briefly last night to the Harley (2 quid entry!) for em's leaving thingy but decided to call it a night when plug was 12 quid each to get in, some other people headed to DQ's. Dense spent the early evening recounting tales of Dawes on superman...
Tuesday 28 August 2007
The Works - The School
Took Natalie to the works yesterday for her first session after our trip, was pretty amazed by the transformation in her footwork and all in all the general improvement. I didn't climb at the works, ended up chatting to dense quite a bit and discussing various party pieces on the campus board/ pinch rails.
The new painting at the works looks quite funky but each time I go in that place it seems to look less like a climbing wall and more like a modern art museum, with loads of bright colours and strange shapes (as well as a half complete window painting, wtf?).
The comp wall has been tinkered with leaving it a lot steeper but a pile of volumes waiting underneath it tend to suggest that it'll be ruined a.s.a.p, its not open yet due to a lack of structural steel. I am impresed that the guys down there are changing things about to make people happier but seriously, why not do something about a fixed board? I understand it will cost money etc. but its a request that I have heard a lot, the whole volume wall seems like a bit of self indulgence to me, fair enough I doubt it cost anywhere near the amount changing the fixed board might but still.....
Spoke to Mo (the sole user of the current fixed board) and he told me that it was soon to become a normal section of the wall just like the rest of it, with set problems etc.
The climbing Gnome was once again in residence looking strong but like a bit of a poser.
After Nat finished I got her to drop me off at the school, a mysterious package awaited Ben so I sent him a text and it didn't take long for him to pop in and investigate. The session started really well for me, came painfully close to Basic Ben but screwed up the last snatch of glory. Attempts rapidly went downhill so I took a concious decision to leave it and do easier problems that attacked weaknesses of mine, the gift with my finish for my weak stomach, driller killer as you have to concentrate all the time and finally schoolboy because by this time I was knackered and it is just pure power. Not a bad session I guess but progress is a little slower than I would have liked but thats always the case is it not? I finished with some bench press and then some press-ups (both of which I can feel this morning) in order to try and sort out the chest cracking/pains i've been having.
Going to head over to Nige's with Dense later for a look at their board.
The new painting at the works looks quite funky but each time I go in that place it seems to look less like a climbing wall and more like a modern art museum, with loads of bright colours and strange shapes (as well as a half complete window painting, wtf?).
The comp wall has been tinkered with leaving it a lot steeper but a pile of volumes waiting underneath it tend to suggest that it'll be ruined a.s.a.p, its not open yet due to a lack of structural steel. I am impresed that the guys down there are changing things about to make people happier but seriously, why not do something about a fixed board? I understand it will cost money etc. but its a request that I have heard a lot, the whole volume wall seems like a bit of self indulgence to me, fair enough I doubt it cost anywhere near the amount changing the fixed board might but still.....
Spoke to Mo (the sole user of the current fixed board) and he told me that it was soon to become a normal section of the wall just like the rest of it, with set problems etc.
The climbing Gnome was once again in residence looking strong but like a bit of a poser.
After Nat finished I got her to drop me off at the school, a mysterious package awaited Ben so I sent him a text and it didn't take long for him to pop in and investigate. The session started really well for me, came painfully close to Basic Ben but screwed up the last snatch of glory. Attempts rapidly went downhill so I took a concious decision to leave it and do easier problems that attacked weaknesses of mine, the gift with my finish for my weak stomach, driller killer as you have to concentrate all the time and finally schoolboy because by this time I was knackered and it is just pure power. Not a bad session I guess but progress is a little slower than I would have liked but thats always the case is it not? I finished with some bench press and then some press-ups (both of which I can feel this morning) in order to try and sort out the chest cracking/pains i've been having.
Going to head over to Nige's with Dense later for a look at their board.
Sunday 26 August 2007
Long Font/Amsterdam report
Well the package Nat and I were waiting on came early a couple of Mondays ago now, we made the (rushed) decision to leave that day and so I spent the morning rushing around like a blue arsed fly changing money, paying in cheques for the car (Full amount, no hassle!), buying spare bulbs and all the paraphenalie required to drive the car on the other side of the road (although i'm not sure why, the french don't even seem to maintain their cars, it looks like there are thousands of scooters driving around paris at night but oh no, its the french in their little twingo's...), we made a brief stop at Nat's parents place for dinner, we went out to a posh chinese where her dad spent the vast majority of the evening trying to persuade me to drive his techno barge 7-series, I refused (knowing full well that my bank balance wasn't enough to repair even the slightest damage to the car). After that we had a few hours sleep before heading down to Dover for the 19 quid ferry at 4am. We followed the POI file for the Trois Pignon all the way down through Northern France without hassle before at the last minute following signs for La Musardiere campsite, thank god for SatNav, it made the journey very easy especially as Natalie slept for its entirety. On arrival it was very hot and we pitched the (tiny) tent without trouble. We both decided we would have a rest day on arrival because of our stupidly early ferry so we sat around for the rest of the day. It started chucking it down early evening and was still going the next morning. Crap.
I had initially wanted to start our climbing at Hatues-Plaines but a quick rece showed it to be wet, which I was expecting. Instead we headed over to Cul De Chien, the boulders were dry and we began climbing despite the grey clouds that were looming. We started on the kiddie's circuit and Natalie impressed me by having no problem whatsover with the first five or so yellow's I pointed her to.
One particularly heavy shower hit mid afternoon so we headed around to l'autre toit for some shelter, I had a quick look at a few of the problems but didn't get overly psyched. On the way past we stopped at the firs section of Roche aux Sabots where I pointed Natalie at a few harder problems, not too long after that she got up a blue, it wasn't elegant but that doesn't really matter. I did a few of the problems that I could remember enjoying in the past, including bazooka joe, its a really nice rock up and lock for those who don't know it on the side of the jet set boulder, well worth a look.
Over the next few days the weather improved, we ended up moving the tent as we were literally surrounded on all sides by a large french party at one time. The sat nav well and truely died, the sound doesn't seem to work at all now and I can't figure out what the hell is wrong with it, it only narrowly escaped being ejected from the car window on one of the faster, more fun french D-roads.
We visited loads of venues, Hautes-Plaines, Buthiers, Apremont-Envers, Beauvais, Cul de chien, 95.2, Cuvier (what a mess this was, you could literally follow the empty condom wrappers from the car park to cortomaltese) and Sabots.
Natalie did well on all of the circuits, doing extremely well on the blue next to Miss KGB at 95.2. It took her a while to get used to the significantly smaller footholds compared to the bolt-a-ledges used at the climbing works but that was expected.
During the week we kept checking the forecast in Switzerland and it wasn't good, rain, showers and an impending thunderstorm so after a while I decided that taking it easy in Font wasn't a good idea just in case we didn't end up going on the swiss leg of our trip. In the evenings we headed to specific venues for me to try harder problems, given the summer temps I tried to be sensible and stick to the crimpy problems on boulders covered in limestone or easier slopey problems. I was quite happy with the ticks given my long lay off and the temps although not so happy with my performance on one problem. Magic Bus.
The day I tried this it was HOT so I waited until evening and eventually found the cave its located in. Initially I tried a sequence that was pretty much all power. Undercuts at the back, right hand to good scooped foot hold and again to the undercut on the lip of the cave, left foot on good foot hold, power up to sloper then the finish. It wasn't working and I was sure there must be some serious toe-hooking faggotry to be had. After a while I tried another sequence, undercuts then LH to crimp, right foot out wide, left heel/toe on undercuts, then RH into undercut on lip, it felt like it should be much easier but at the crucial moment each time one of either of my feet popped. It started to get annoying so I opted to go back to the pure power sequence, this time stopping to catch an undercut pocket (completely the wrong way mind you) before powering for the sloper. After a few tries I caught the pocket and it all felt very easy...Damn annoying, really need to sort out my toe hooking so I can use them well rather than opting for an akward heel instead.
Earlier on in the week we popped over to cuvier, did Cortomaltese because its an amazing problem, nobody was around to hiss/spit/boo as I crimped the hell out of the ripples on the lower slopers. Then we went to do the Marie Rose, I have to admite that on the first attempt I bailed due to being an absoloute wuss with my leg, after sitting around for 5 mins or so being thoroughly pissed off about this I got back on it and clawed my way over the top using the very sweaty slopers, I'd hoped this could be a hard problem for Nat to try during the week but i'd forgotten how cr*p those slopers get in the heat. Oh well.
Anyway this post must be tres long already? (boring as well no doubt) so i'll try and shorten the next bit. At the end of the week the weather broke and we were left with a difficult decision, 7 hours over to Magic Wood where the weather was looking poor, or home (via amsterdam). We opted for the latter, I was unwilling to taint Nat's first proper climbing trip with a week of potentially horrible weather. Dave Mason sent me a txt saying that he was managing to climb between the showers, if it had just been me then I would of gone for it, however driving 14 hours to get wet for no reason didn't seem like fun.
The latter half of the trip isn't climbing based so i'll try and keep it in one short paragraph. We went to Amsterdam, via Brussels. Spent a great deal of time walking around seeing the sights for a few days before heading back via Rotterdam (shithole) before returning to Dunkerque. Just before getting to the ferry terminal a porsche GT3 from a British Driving school overtook me at a ridiculous speed. Amazing. We then drove back to Watford where we made good inroads on the wine we brought back and I finally succumbed to being the designated driver and driving the 730d automatic, that thing is just ridiculously large (suprised it doesn't say Boeing somewhere on the side), and has automatic everything including handbrake, all you have to do is press stop and go...
Nat's punto did admirably on the trip increasing its lifetime average from 57mpg to 67mpg (god knows what it would have average for the trip alone 70 something?), before the side window popped out yeterday... although some shoving fixed that in no time.
Right I need to get back up the school as i'm feeling weak.
Sorry about the length of the post.
Friday 10 August 2007
Europe
Well Natalie got back on wednesday complete with two huge cases full of clothes. My chest has been feeling better each day and I reckon tomorrow i'm about ready to climb again. I've spent the last few days eating a lot and drinking, tonight will be no exception as i'm about to head out to the "Floody Hell" beer festival although I won't be having too much as I DO want to train tomorrow and beer makes me feel crappy.
Currently there is a tent in our main room, anchored to various pieces of furniture to hold it up (it hadn't been aired since ceuse a couple of years ago and still had a bag of half eaten Haribo inside), after two false starts to trips since the big one was cancelled it finally looks like i'll be off sometime next week for a few weeks. The plan is to hit fontainebleau and do easy stuff with Natalie so she can enjoy the sun and climbing (and I can do a bit but mostly eat cake), and then to head over to the land of magic grades to see how weak I am (or more to the point how soft the grading really is...), on the way we're going to stop off at a few places we'd like to see and maybe a quick trip through Germany on the way back...who knows.
Currently there is a tent in our main room, anchored to various pieces of furniture to hold it up (it hadn't been aired since ceuse a couple of years ago and still had a bag of half eaten Haribo inside), after two false starts to trips since the big one was cancelled it finally looks like i'll be off sometime next week for a few weeks. The plan is to hit fontainebleau and do easy stuff with Natalie so she can enjoy the sun and climbing (and I can do a bit but mostly eat cake), and then to head over to the land of magic grades to see how weak I am (or more to the point how soft the grading really is...), on the way we're going to stop off at a few places we'd like to see and maybe a quick trip through Germany on the way back...who knows.
Tuesday 7 August 2007
Early Doors.
Went up the school this morning as my folks should be here in a minute so later wasn't an option. Much cooler up there depsite the corridor being very hot. Did a few good problems on the 50, nothing of note, dave did basic ben I dropped C45, seems to be stopping me that move. Unfortunately not long after warming up I got a sharp pain in my chest (around my sternum) and it stayed there for the rest of the session and is still there now. Very uncomfortable, wonder what it is?
Moved over to the cressbrook board, failed on the last move of stuperman, and dropped the last move of uncle crimpy guts...ah well, the improvement is obvious.
Moved over to the cressbrook board, failed on the last move of stuperman, and dropped the last move of uncle crimpy guts...ah well, the improvement is obvious.
Sunday 5 August 2007
The fire of a thousand suns...
...was upon the schoolroom today, my god it was hot. Warmed up slowly then slipped off loads of different problems loads of time before both dave and I got fed up, he gave up and i did reps on Chalk n Blow with a weightbelt. Did more walking than climbing, the place really is more of a crag than a board sometimes.
Has anyone seen the large red pusher system tile? It seems to have gone walkabout...
Has anyone seen the large red pusher system tile? It seems to have gone walkabout...
Saturday 4 August 2007
Motorsport
Got sent this the other day:
it's a tad depressing but sums up why the drivers campaigned so hard for stricter safety regulations on the cars....
it's a tad depressing but sums up why the drivers campaigned so hard for stricter safety regulations on the cars....
Friday 3 August 2007
Good Session!
Well I guess now I can pretty much say that last sessions poor performance was due to overdoing it the time before. Waited in all day for a package, it never came (sorry dave should of just gone earlier). Got to the school warmed up very concious of the fact that I was the only one there so needed to rest a lot (started using my phone to time 2 minute and 5 minute rest periods), warmed up over about half an hour then got on schoolgirl, first go I came off backwards on the large wooden pinch, it was very humid. 2nd go nailed it. Next up was turd reich, 1st go again I did a spectacular dismount off backwards, 2nd go latched the final block, finger stayed off the top, campus to glory. Next up was total recoil, did this first go then tried bradbury finish but didn't have enough push from my leg. Got on driller killer as i'd been struggling with the last move since I started again, did it but was shakey as hell on the last move. Moved over to the cressbrook board and tried stuperman, worked out what to do and did it to the last move but i'm not strong enough to do that rockover yet and was starting to get tired hence I deecided to stop strong so that I can train again soon rather than having a crap session next time...
Nige came in as I was leaving...Turns out red bull DOES NOT make climbing boots more sticky.
Nige came in as I was leaving...Turns out red bull DOES NOT make climbing boots more sticky.
Thursday 2 August 2007
Bad Session...
Terrible in fact, can't really work out what was wrong but I wasn't going well at all, I could blame it on the heat up there tonight but mainly I think I was lacking enthusiasm and maybe overdid it a little on monday? who knows, it happens. Dave is starting to look stronger in the finger department which is good and managed a sweaty ascent of Owlowek. Left early so not much to say. 2/10 for the session, 8/10 for the walking, did it in under 45 minutes which is good going as my calf is still a bit of a weakling. I need to find more enthusiasm for Friday (Watch: Rocky III and The real thing), considering a change of scene but usually when I go to the works instead I regret it and swear not to do it again for ages. One week until I pick Natalie up from her hols where she has been buying mountains of clothes in Florida.
Oh and the good news is the school is safe for a little longer...would say more but its over on Dobbin's blog.
Oh and the good news is the school is safe for a little longer...would say more but its over on Dobbin's blog.
Monday 30 July 2007
More School Room....
Went up to the school on friday with Dave again, had a really good session, managed unamed as well as a few other things before ending up on the cressbrook board. My fingers are starting to wake up a little bit after their rest period which is nice.
Went back up there today. On entering some of the artists approached me asking if I could confirm or deny the rumour that the school had been granted a reprieve for one year. I couldn't so I sent nic a txt and waited for the answer. It came later, 1 more year, excellent news, really cheered me up and my session was really good (and amusing as I had Ben and JLS doing their best foreign accents). The tunes were good tonight as well, bitcomet is currently going crazy downloading all the stuff ben played, about time to as my DJ Shadow 2003 Essential Mix is getting a bit overplayed.
Today I managed to get up Driller Killer - Hammer Horror ending and then had a lot of really good goes on School Girl, didn't quite get it but i've never found it easy and suprised myself. Hit the pinch on too fluffy, rotated wildly and came off spectacularly. After this I moved my attention onto the cressbrook board, did a few little things, closer on Uncle Crimpy guts, did micro machines. Dave is looking good and strong on that board now, will be interesting to see what he gets up in Magic Wood. Switched to one armers to finish, 4kg assistancem, LH 5 reps RH 4, 6kg assitance the same. Did a few campus esque problems to finish. Excellent session. Better conditions after ben turned the outer radiator off, the place looked remarkably clean as well after a number of people put in some effort....Wednesday my Dad is heading down to sheffield to punter around on the grit, I reckon i'll join him but go training later in the day. I bet the tor was in good nic tonight however i'm still not ready to be taking falls onto mats outside...
Went back up there today. On entering some of the artists approached me asking if I could confirm or deny the rumour that the school had been granted a reprieve for one year. I couldn't so I sent nic a txt and waited for the answer. It came later, 1 more year, excellent news, really cheered me up and my session was really good (and amusing as I had Ben and JLS doing their best foreign accents). The tunes were good tonight as well, bitcomet is currently going crazy downloading all the stuff ben played, about time to as my DJ Shadow 2003 Essential Mix is getting a bit overplayed.
Today I managed to get up Driller Killer - Hammer Horror ending and then had a lot of really good goes on School Girl, didn't quite get it but i've never found it easy and suprised myself. Hit the pinch on too fluffy, rotated wildly and came off spectacularly. After this I moved my attention onto the cressbrook board, did a few little things, closer on Uncle Crimpy guts, did micro machines. Dave is looking good and strong on that board now, will be interesting to see what he gets up in Magic Wood. Switched to one armers to finish, 4kg assistancem, LH 5 reps RH 4, 6kg assitance the same. Did a few campus esque problems to finish. Excellent session. Better conditions after ben turned the outer radiator off, the place looked remarkably clean as well after a number of people put in some effort....Wednesday my Dad is heading down to sheffield to punter around on the grit, I reckon i'll join him but go training later in the day. I bet the tor was in good nic tonight however i'm still not ready to be taking falls onto mats outside...
Wednesday 25 July 2007
Channel Surfing
Went to the board on monday, picked up a Sheffield Star up on the way, funny to see they cropped seb out of it, the only person who had set up a proper belay. That pick should give the council and the HSE enough reason to have us out by november. When I stepped outside last thursday the last thing I exepected was to get heckled from Nic stood in a "Titanic" esque pose on top of the school with one flimst runner at around 2/3rds height, never would of held.
Soon after getting there Dave and Ben turned up, and the session pretty much descended into trying anything and everything that we all thought was worth a pop. I don't think any one of us made it to the top of anything especially hard but we came close, my deviant right foot beta on Turd Reich proving good for not only me but Dave as well. Saw some major lanking manouvres from both dave and ben on Basic Ben, bet basic knitwear is a right ball ache if your tall....
We then switched our attention to the cressbrook board, which is rarely used. Nige turned up and soon joined us. Tried uncle crimpy guts but failed on the smallest hold. Tried stuperman, failed miserably, everyone got on a problem Ned and I climbed a while back, it's really good if a little sharp. I think dave want's steely fingers before magic wood in a month or so, if so, the cressbrook board is certainly the way forward.
Going up the board tonight but got woken up really early by the post man with a package and have been feeling pretty rubbish ever since....Hope its worthwile I just feel knackered.
Soon after getting there Dave and Ben turned up, and the session pretty much descended into trying anything and everything that we all thought was worth a pop. I don't think any one of us made it to the top of anything especially hard but we came close, my deviant right foot beta on Turd Reich proving good for not only me but Dave as well. Saw some major lanking manouvres from both dave and ben on Basic Ben, bet basic knitwear is a right ball ache if your tall....
We then switched our attention to the cressbrook board, which is rarely used. Nige turned up and soon joined us. Tried uncle crimpy guts but failed on the smallest hold. Tried stuperman, failed miserably, everyone got on a problem Ned and I climbed a while back, it's really good if a little sharp. I think dave want's steely fingers before magic wood in a month or so, if so, the cressbrook board is certainly the way forward.
Going up the board tonight but got woken up really early by the post man with a package and have been feeling pretty rubbish ever since....Hope its worthwile I just feel knackered.
Saturday 21 July 2007
Update
Thursday was graduation, I went from undergraduate to being a graduant to being a graduate all in one day... Went ok, posing for photos and stuff is never fun. It's the first time Nat's folks and mine had met, all went smoothly. Snook off at aroun 5.30 to get a quick session up at the school before the publicity stunt thing (picture in previous post).
The session was rushed but good I guess, did schoolboy again and then did pego, was going to go for total recoil but I didn't have it in me. Went outside to join the photo stunt to find Nic on the top of the schoolroom and various other people up drainpipes. I joined the group of artists on the floor. I had intended to go back in but after a bit of chat I decided it was a bit daft and headed off to the evening meal.
Friday morning came, Nat left with her folks to florida for 3 weeks. Went to Broomhill and had lunch with my folks and a family friend who is currently being treated at Weston Park, given the circumstances he seemed in a good mood and didn't look frail or anything.
Got up this morning with nothing to do so watched Ronin (I haven't got enough films to keep me going for 3 weeks without getting bored), then had lunch and headed up the board. Decided to walk it as that's what I usually do. The leg was feeling very akward and tight until I got through town then it loosened up. Got to the board as Rich H was leaving, re-arranged all of the pads as i'm now very fussy about landings, kicked up all the dust. B*gger. Warmed up Ok, gave flash it a miss incase it triggered the dodgey finger. Did the gift although not 1st time and I struggled. Then moved on to driller killer, couldn't do the last move due to leg but fairly happy with the effort, finger was feeling a little sore so I taped it then did a couple more easy problems before moving over onto the 15 deg board. Didn't manage to get up the problems I tried and kepy shooting off holds, ran out of chalk and my bad skin was meaning I was greasing everything up. Decided to call it a day and walked down to planetfear to buy chalk. No superchalk just moon stuff. Ok, headed over to Decathlon, nope none there either, where can I buy it? the moon stuff just isn't as good. Walked home by this time I was absoloutely knackered. I'm now looking for a good stretching routine, I havent got a lot planned in this 3 weeks now ( i'm going to head over to Europe when Nat gets back for 3-5 weeks instead) so I need something to kill a bit of time. I've never liked stretching so we'll see how it goes.
The session was rushed but good I guess, did schoolboy again and then did pego, was going to go for total recoil but I didn't have it in me. Went outside to join the photo stunt to find Nic on the top of the schoolroom and various other people up drainpipes. I joined the group of artists on the floor. I had intended to go back in but after a bit of chat I decided it was a bit daft and headed off to the evening meal.
Friday morning came, Nat left with her folks to florida for 3 weeks. Went to Broomhill and had lunch with my folks and a family friend who is currently being treated at Weston Park, given the circumstances he seemed in a good mood and didn't look frail or anything.
Got up this morning with nothing to do so watched Ronin (I haven't got enough films to keep me going for 3 weeks without getting bored), then had lunch and headed up the board. Decided to walk it as that's what I usually do. The leg was feeling very akward and tight until I got through town then it loosened up. Got to the board as Rich H was leaving, re-arranged all of the pads as i'm now very fussy about landings, kicked up all the dust. B*gger. Warmed up Ok, gave flash it a miss incase it triggered the dodgey finger. Did the gift although not 1st time and I struggled. Then moved on to driller killer, couldn't do the last move due to leg but fairly happy with the effort, finger was feeling a little sore so I taped it then did a couple more easy problems before moving over onto the 15 deg board. Didn't manage to get up the problems I tried and kepy shooting off holds, ran out of chalk and my bad skin was meaning I was greasing everything up. Decided to call it a day and walked down to planetfear to buy chalk. No superchalk just moon stuff. Ok, headed over to Decathlon, nope none there either, where can I buy it? the moon stuff just isn't as good. Walked home by this time I was absoloutely knackered. I'm now looking for a good stretching routine, I havent got a lot planned in this 3 weeks now ( i'm going to head over to Europe when Nat gets back for 3-5 weeks instead) so I need something to kill a bit of time. I've never liked stretching so we'll see how it goes.
Thursday 19 July 2007
Tuesday 17 July 2007
COMPEX
Right, used the compex on my forearms the night of my last session and once again the following day set on:
Sport---> Active Rest ---> level 100 (thats only 10%)
Went to the works early in the afternoon to spot Nat before heading up to the School in the evening with James Blay. Vicky was up there looking strong on the rings (ring workouts look nasty). Warmed up feeling ok until the last problem, stepped off and my LH ring finger was sore to the touch, it faded, I taped, but to be honest its been on my mind ever since. Did Basic Jez, then flash it then got on Basic Ben, cruised the lock up but failed on the move to the PP hold, I couldn't shove off my right foot on the hold you press at the start, it's starting to get annoying, did the top hard move so I put the failure down to the leg. Moved on to Turd Reich, fell off on the last pinch, a damn good effort but my power was fading quickly, a few more goes on that followed by a few on Total Recoil Bradbury Finish left me knackered, did a bit on the 15 deg board and 30 then packed in for the night, reasonable session and suprisingly my body was feeling ok, it might be a bit of a placebo effect but I kind of think that the active rest may have paid off. I'll try it for a while and see how it goes...
Finger worries me, the last thing I want is another injury, it seems ok now, a tiny bit tender if I rub my nail against my A2 pulley but that could just be because i'm fiddling with it.....
Magic Wood still up in the air Should I/Shouldn't I???
Emailed Polish Dave as Ben's blog entry left me a little miffed, I waited 3 years patiently, kept it polite....
Sport---> Active Rest ---> level 100 (thats only 10%)
Went to the works early in the afternoon to spot Nat before heading up to the School in the evening with James Blay. Vicky was up there looking strong on the rings (ring workouts look nasty). Warmed up feeling ok until the last problem, stepped off and my LH ring finger was sore to the touch, it faded, I taped, but to be honest its been on my mind ever since. Did Basic Jez, then flash it then got on Basic Ben, cruised the lock up but failed on the move to the PP hold, I couldn't shove off my right foot on the hold you press at the start, it's starting to get annoying, did the top hard move so I put the failure down to the leg. Moved on to Turd Reich, fell off on the last pinch, a damn good effort but my power was fading quickly, a few more goes on that followed by a few on Total Recoil Bradbury Finish left me knackered, did a bit on the 15 deg board and 30 then packed in for the night, reasonable session and suprisingly my body was feeling ok, it might be a bit of a placebo effect but I kind of think that the active rest may have paid off. I'll try it for a while and see how it goes...
Finger worries me, the last thing I want is another injury, it seems ok now, a tiny bit tender if I rub my nail against my A2 pulley but that could just be because i'm fiddling with it.....
Magic Wood still up in the air Should I/Shouldn't I???
Emailed Polish Dave as Ben's blog entry left me a little miffed, I waited 3 years patiently, kept it polite....
Sunday 15 July 2007
The Magic School Boy...
After a bit of a lackluster session last time at the works I was set on heading up to the board, I even avoided mucking around yesterday in the pull-up competition as I wanted to get a feel for how strong/weak I really am after all this time off.
Got out of bed (lunch time), sorted to meet Ned and Dense at the board. Got a phonecall from ned, he'd got overkeen and arrived early. Went up, chatted to Ned, let dense in, Dylan turned up not too much later.
Here we go:
Chalk and blow x 2 normal seq. - Fine
Chalk and blow x 2 reverse handed - Fine
Basic Bannisters variation - Fine apart from I struggled to remember it
Whatever it is Flag women's way - Fine
Basic Jez - Fully locked, feeling STRANG!
Flash It! - My sequence, completely locking the last move. Fine.
Basic Knitwear - Nope, did the start moves, foot popped, changed to Dragons. Did the start move much easier, foot up high on the pinch, couldn't get my calf to move at all, shame but it was due to my leg and nothing else.
Decided to change my plan and try Schoolboy. Pulled on, the pinch seemed a long way away but I seemed to get it just, quick snatch into the traingular pinch, dab foot on undercut, blast out to the bannsiter, foot up and lock for Glory - Nice!
Point Dylan at Driller Killer, what an awesome problem.
Next up tried my party piece - Discology, couldn't do the pop after the cross through, again due to leg a little bit but mainly by this point due to being seriously powered out. Move to the 15 deg board, try Uncle Crimpy Guts but my fingers just don't feel quite ready.
Warm down and head to the works to give Nat a spot. She managed to get up the yellow/green thing up the curved board, got high praise for her progress by a few people which is always encouraging, she's doing well.
Dense, Ned, Foley and Jim are heading off to the land of magic grades. Must say i'm tempted to pack the car and do a 3 week europe trip while Nat's away, slightly worried about gate crashing though although some other people are out there too, Pearson seemed keen on the idea but has to think about how much it'll cost and chat to em, he said he'd get back to me so hopefully I might have the makings of a trip...
My forearms feel sore, I think i'm going to try and use my compex on them later....Wonder how that'll work out.
Got out of bed (lunch time), sorted to meet Ned and Dense at the board. Got a phonecall from ned, he'd got overkeen and arrived early. Went up, chatted to Ned, let dense in, Dylan turned up not too much later.
Here we go:
Chalk and blow x 2 normal seq. - Fine
Chalk and blow x 2 reverse handed - Fine
Basic Bannisters variation - Fine apart from I struggled to remember it
Whatever it is Flag women's way - Fine
Basic Jez - Fully locked, feeling STRANG!
Flash It! - My sequence, completely locking the last move. Fine.
Basic Knitwear - Nope, did the start moves, foot popped, changed to Dragons. Did the start move much easier, foot up high on the pinch, couldn't get my calf to move at all, shame but it was due to my leg and nothing else.
Decided to change my plan and try Schoolboy. Pulled on, the pinch seemed a long way away but I seemed to get it just, quick snatch into the traingular pinch, dab foot on undercut, blast out to the bannsiter, foot up and lock for Glory - Nice!
Point Dylan at Driller Killer, what an awesome problem.
Next up tried my party piece - Discology, couldn't do the pop after the cross through, again due to leg a little bit but mainly by this point due to being seriously powered out. Move to the 15 deg board, try Uncle Crimpy Guts but my fingers just don't feel quite ready.
Warm down and head to the works to give Nat a spot. She managed to get up the yellow/green thing up the curved board, got high praise for her progress by a few people which is always encouraging, she's doing well.
Dense, Ned, Foley and Jim are heading off to the land of magic grades. Must say i'm tempted to pack the car and do a 3 week europe trip while Nat's away, slightly worried about gate crashing though although some other people are out there too, Pearson seemed keen on the idea but has to think about how much it'll cost and chat to em, he said he'd get back to me so hopefully I might have the makings of a trip...
My forearms feel sore, I think i'm going to try and use my compex on them later....Wonder how that'll work out.
Saturday 14 July 2007
Cliffhanger - Some thoughts on comps...
Remarkbly the weather was alright today. Got to graves park reasonably early considering my laziness and watched a bit of the qualifying, bit gutted I didn't enter as there didn't seem to be too much volume mounting and there was at least one gift. Had a wander around the rest of the park, there wasn't an amazing amount to do apart from shop, which unfortunately requires money. Abstained from the pull up competition (by the way earlier in the day I told a few people how I once watched Adam Dewhurst do around 60 pull ups in 1 minute at a previous competition, by the end of the day supposedly I could do 65. Genius!) as I want to hit the board fresh tomorrow. Roy told me there's some kind of publicity thing for the save the board on thursday, hopefully I can make it but thursday is graduation.
Anyway afternoon came and it was time for the Final's...Although katy whitaker put in a fine performance to take the win I was heavily un-impressed by average performance of the women, come on girls work your weakness' learn how to lock, at least a little bit.... Its always the same story.
Men's final came, Dan Bradley had a skinful then realised he qualified in 5th (top marks to that bloke), Poor Ste Mac just wasn't tall enough for almost all of the problems, Ryan's forearms are ridiculously long, Stu Watson is strong, Gaz parry has turned from beastly strong to beastly strong with mean fingers and deserved the win.
Now for my thoughts on comps - toyed with the idea of putting this on UKB but then thought better of it:
Whether or not comps are your thing, they exist, people do them and I can't really see the problem with that as long as they're taken for what they are and nobody gets too serious. (a comment written by Natalie Berry last year over on planetfear really did my head in, she basically [and i paraphrase] that she wasn't interested in climbing outdoors at all, for her comps are what mattered...).
Anyway:
At one point I counted over 30 people on the mat's (not including competitors, commentators, photographers and camera men), mostly consisting of WAG's/Boyfriends/Brothers/Mum's and Dads... Is this really necessary? It clutters up the climbing area and means the spectators could be a good 2ft closer if there wasn't this row of hangers on.
Another point - is it ethical to have someone's Mum/Dad/Brother be a judge/brush gimp/time gimp or even be in the area? I don't really think so, conflict of interest so to speak.
Although the commentator was ok today (if a little Hard Plastic esque), wouldn't it be better to have some young enthusiastic climber who knew a little background and wasn't reading off a sheet of figures? I'd say so, he kept screaming pull it, pull it, Doesn't he know the hip thing to say currently is "Kill Ty, Kill..."
One thing that I could definately see upsetting a large crowd like the one that turned out today forthe men's final would be a serious injury such as my own, Why does noone seem to want a spot or offer it? There were certainly enough people hanging about....
On an aside, these events obviously take a lot of effort to organise and pull off so good effort to all those involved, and for all you people out there who missed it, i'm sure British Team Productions will have it available for DVD soon...
Anyway afternoon came and it was time for the Final's...Although katy whitaker put in a fine performance to take the win I was heavily un-impressed by average performance of the women, come on girls work your weakness' learn how to lock, at least a little bit.... Its always the same story.
Men's final came, Dan Bradley had a skinful then realised he qualified in 5th (top marks to that bloke), Poor Ste Mac just wasn't tall enough for almost all of the problems, Ryan's forearms are ridiculously long, Stu Watson is strong, Gaz parry has turned from beastly strong to beastly strong with mean fingers and deserved the win.
Now for my thoughts on comps - toyed with the idea of putting this on UKB but then thought better of it:
Whether or not comps are your thing, they exist, people do them and I can't really see the problem with that as long as they're taken for what they are and nobody gets too serious. (a comment written by Natalie Berry last year over on planetfear really did my head in, she basically [and i paraphrase] that she wasn't interested in climbing outdoors at all, for her comps are what mattered...).
Anyway:
At one point I counted over 30 people on the mat's (not including competitors, commentators, photographers and camera men), mostly consisting of WAG's/Boyfriends/Brothers/Mum's and Dads... Is this really necessary? It clutters up the climbing area and means the spectators could be a good 2ft closer if there wasn't this row of hangers on.
Another point - is it ethical to have someone's Mum/Dad/Brother be a judge/brush gimp/time gimp or even be in the area? I don't really think so, conflict of interest so to speak.
Although the commentator was ok today (if a little Hard Plastic esque), wouldn't it be better to have some young enthusiastic climber who knew a little background and wasn't reading off a sheet of figures? I'd say so, he kept screaming pull it, pull it, Doesn't he know the hip thing to say currently is "Kill Ty, Kill..."
One thing that I could definately see upsetting a large crowd like the one that turned out today forthe men's final would be a serious injury such as my own, Why does noone seem to want a spot or offer it? There were certainly enough people hanging about....
On an aside, these events obviously take a lot of effort to organise and pull off so good effort to all those involved, and for all you people out there who missed it, i'm sure British Team Productions will have it available for DVD soon...
Friday 13 July 2007
Works again.
Went down to the works again, the first thing I noticed was how busy it was, sam was repainting the slabs, the inner 'room' and the surrounding boards, this meant about half of the wall was unmatted and unusable, a tear was being fixed below the stepped boards and on the back wall as well.
A lot of areas out of action, wet weather and a lot of people led to one very busy wall.
I ended up on the comp wall but wasn't climbing that well (realistically i was climbing just as well as previously, I was trying harder things), I warmed up then tried the pink problem out through the roof of the comp wall, was doing ok but didn't have the commitment to take the swing just in case I landed funny. After this I tried the crimpy pink up the barrel section, usually this would be just my thing but I couldn't seem to do the transfer between sidepulls... By this point I was in a bit of a mood, I absoloutely hate trying to get on problems when there are loads of people about, especially people who are blatently not getting anywhere at all.
After a while I calmed down, did the yellow's from last session and some really pleasant black problems. Think i've overdone the works a bit and need a change of scene, it fits in well with my plan to visit the board next session anyway.
If i was going to rate today's session I reckon it would be about a 5/10.....
The weather is looking sh*t at the minute and I overheard that Graves Park and the Marquee/Mat's aren't doing too well in all the rain, could be a mud-bath by tomorrow.
Plan to head over to North Wales next weekend and get the tour from Doyle but again this is weather dependant, i've never really bouldered in NW, just too drawn by LPT to ever bother with a pad.
Nat's off to florida so i've got to fill up 2.5 weeks with as much climbing as humanly possible.
On another note bumped in to Andy Koisch (can't spell his name) down the works, he's always a laugh to climb with and it's always interesting to hear stuff from 'back in the day', he was climbing with jasper sharpe which reminded me of something he said to me last winter when chatting to him about the school he said something like:
"When we were all climbing at the school (probably all climbing F8c as well) we all thought we were really strong putting in big egyptian's on tiny holds up this steep board, then we went to Jasper's board, he was climbing toe on, we realised just what power really is."
Sorry about the discontinuity of the post and gay little (seemingly name dropping, that's not good) tale above....
A lot of areas out of action, wet weather and a lot of people led to one very busy wall.
I ended up on the comp wall but wasn't climbing that well (realistically i was climbing just as well as previously, I was trying harder things), I warmed up then tried the pink problem out through the roof of the comp wall, was doing ok but didn't have the commitment to take the swing just in case I landed funny. After this I tried the crimpy pink up the barrel section, usually this would be just my thing but I couldn't seem to do the transfer between sidepulls... By this point I was in a bit of a mood, I absoloutely hate trying to get on problems when there are loads of people about, especially people who are blatently not getting anywhere at all.
After a while I calmed down, did the yellow's from last session and some really pleasant black problems. Think i've overdone the works a bit and need a change of scene, it fits in well with my plan to visit the board next session anyway.
If i was going to rate today's session I reckon it would be about a 5/10.....
The weather is looking sh*t at the minute and I overheard that Graves Park and the Marquee/Mat's aren't doing too well in all the rain, could be a mud-bath by tomorrow.
Plan to head over to North Wales next weekend and get the tour from Doyle but again this is weather dependant, i've never really bouldered in NW, just too drawn by LPT to ever bother with a pad.
Nat's off to florida so i've got to fill up 2.5 weeks with as much climbing as humanly possible.
On another note bumped in to Andy Koisch (can't spell his name) down the works, he's always a laugh to climb with and it's always interesting to hear stuff from 'back in the day', he was climbing with jasper sharpe which reminded me of something he said to me last winter when chatting to him about the school he said something like:
"When we were all climbing at the school (probably all climbing F8c as well) we all thought we were really strong putting in big egyptian's on tiny holds up this steep board, then we went to Jasper's board, he was climbing toe on, we realised just what power really is."
Sorry about the discontinuity of the post and gay little (seemingly name dropping, that's not good) tale above....
Wednesday 11 July 2007
I am a curious YELLOW!
Continuing the one day on one day off trend I headed to the works once again. On the way stopping at B&Q for some random rubbish and then an Antique shop.. pretty much because Nat wanted to. I'm not sure where she thought the oak bed she liked would go in our flat, it was so big it would take up the entire living area and probably break the floor slab.... but even so.
When we got there it was pretty hot and I was psyched but not for anything in particular, this led to me doing a fair bit of wandering before actually doing anything.
Anyway, warmed up on the slab, did a few greens, a brown and then a new red and black (no 5 I think, was v nice.), after this I was pretty much at a loss as to what I should try next. Got on the comp wall slab and did a couple of problems, the red and black thing and the crimpy pink. Did another juggy one up the curved wall and was feeling suprisingly strong.
A while ago when the yellow circuit was set and I was pestering everyone in sight down the works for climbing based knowledge or conversation I shoved a few of my friends in the direction of one or two yellow problems on the stepped wall and on the skips, some climbed them admirably, some struggled which led me to believe these problems were trickier than they appeared. Now not having a frame on my leg, it was my turn to try. Pulled on to the lhs yellow on the stepped wall, powered up the arete and found myself comfortably pulling between rounded blobs to the top. Wow, now i was psyched. Next up I headed for the closest skip and to a problem I saw Trav's climb pretty much without feet and Mike Lee climb as if feet were hands. Despatched this, again comfortably and using my feet well. Next up I headed to the next skip over and the double dog's bollocks holds, powered through to the arete but failed getting my feet on the little hold on the flash, 2nd go proved easier if a little un-stylish. Feeling really strong at this point, a bit over confident and very happy. Next up was a yellow up the slab between the skips and the steps. SS, to a weird pod and a little moon shaped crimp, feet up, LH on razor, left foot up again, lock to big slopey boss and match, right foot up, left on razor edge and a big lock / pop / pull to a good crimp... or so I thought, hit the crimp realised it wasn't quite as good as I expected, oh sh*t i'm high, spotter in wrong place, massive fall, heart in mouth but leg still in one piece. Bomb off the top a few more times.
Tick all the yellows on the stepped bit and most on the skips then do another couple of yellows in the inner 'room' then a few easier ones on comp wall. Tried the greens up the barrel at the end of the session, it highlighted just what my leg can't do: push off sloping edges hard. Ah well.... Damn good session. My arms are strong and I feel they might have more potential after all those gym sessions than ever before. My fingers were feeling strong but I don't think they've quite caught up yet.
Had a quick chat to Fatdoc then to Graeme and Sam about the BBC's and Cliffhanger. At this point I was very tempted to enter, got told the wall being built is big so headed up to Graves Park for a look. I've never been up there before, its really nice!
Anyway the wall looks big. I think i'll skip this BBC, it would be foolish to push myself hard in a competitive situation this soon after coming back. Really psyched to get back up the board next week and find out if today's session was really a fluke. I think i'll stick with the same routine as usual:
Chalk and Blow x 2
C & B Reverse x 2
Basic Bannisters variation
48 flag womens's way
Basic Jez
Flash It!
Basic Knitwear/Bowie
Schoolboy
Basic Ben
Turd Reich
Too fluffy
Snot!
I'll see how far i get through that lot before I fail. I reckon it'll be basic knitwear that does for me.
When we got there it was pretty hot and I was psyched but not for anything in particular, this led to me doing a fair bit of wandering before actually doing anything.
Anyway, warmed up on the slab, did a few greens, a brown and then a new red and black (no 5 I think, was v nice.), after this I was pretty much at a loss as to what I should try next. Got on the comp wall slab and did a couple of problems, the red and black thing and the crimpy pink. Did another juggy one up the curved wall and was feeling suprisingly strong.
A while ago when the yellow circuit was set and I was pestering everyone in sight down the works for climbing based knowledge or conversation I shoved a few of my friends in the direction of one or two yellow problems on the stepped wall and on the skips, some climbed them admirably, some struggled which led me to believe these problems were trickier than they appeared. Now not having a frame on my leg, it was my turn to try. Pulled on to the lhs yellow on the stepped wall, powered up the arete and found myself comfortably pulling between rounded blobs to the top. Wow, now i was psyched. Next up I headed for the closest skip and to a problem I saw Trav's climb pretty much without feet and Mike Lee climb as if feet were hands. Despatched this, again comfortably and using my feet well. Next up I headed to the next skip over and the double dog's bollocks holds, powered through to the arete but failed getting my feet on the little hold on the flash, 2nd go proved easier if a little un-stylish. Feeling really strong at this point, a bit over confident and very happy. Next up was a yellow up the slab between the skips and the steps. SS, to a weird pod and a little moon shaped crimp, feet up, LH on razor, left foot up again, lock to big slopey boss and match, right foot up, left on razor edge and a big lock / pop / pull to a good crimp... or so I thought, hit the crimp realised it wasn't quite as good as I expected, oh sh*t i'm high, spotter in wrong place, massive fall, heart in mouth but leg still in one piece. Bomb off the top a few more times.
Tick all the yellows on the stepped bit and most on the skips then do another couple of yellows in the inner 'room' then a few easier ones on comp wall. Tried the greens up the barrel at the end of the session, it highlighted just what my leg can't do: push off sloping edges hard. Ah well.... Damn good session. My arms are strong and I feel they might have more potential after all those gym sessions than ever before. My fingers were feeling strong but I don't think they've quite caught up yet.
Had a quick chat to Fatdoc then to Graeme and Sam about the BBC's and Cliffhanger. At this point I was very tempted to enter, got told the wall being built is big so headed up to Graves Park for a look. I've never been up there before, its really nice!
Anyway the wall looks big. I think i'll skip this BBC, it would be foolish to push myself hard in a competitive situation this soon after coming back. Really psyched to get back up the board next week and find out if today's session was really a fluke. I think i'll stick with the same routine as usual:
Chalk and Blow x 2
C & B Reverse x 2
Basic Bannisters variation
48 flag womens's way
Basic Jez
Flash It!
Basic Knitwear/Bowie
Schoolboy
Basic Ben
Turd Reich
Too fluffy
Snot!
I'll see how far i get through that lot before I fail. I reckon it'll be basic knitwear that does for me.
Tuesday 10 July 2007
Concession...
Right, a while ago over on Dob's blog there was a question raised about the main difference between climbers who work and train and those that don't work or are students. I'll have to concede (although I was dubious at the time), that the main difference is indeed rest. After just starting again with what I thought was a relatively gentle re-introduction (in retrospect I think I may have done a little too much 'volume'), I have been absoloutely knackered and haven't really been up at a decent hour since (taking around 12 hours sleep a night), which would obviously be impossible if you had a life to go alongside your job, or wanted to train at all!
Thankfully I can't feel any pain in my fingers today (apart from my trashed skin), although a few do feel very achey. Is this normal?
One thing is for certain - the easy circuits have got absoloutely massive holds, the intermediate circuits have some really dirty crimps and pockets, the step up must be really tricky for a beginner.
I think my next session has got to be an easier one.. or at least shorter.
Thankfully I can't feel any pain in my fingers today (apart from my trashed skin), although a few do feel very achey. Is this normal?
One thing is for certain - the easy circuits have got absoloutely massive holds, the intermediate circuits have some really dirty crimps and pockets, the step up must be really tricky for a beginner.
I think my next session has got to be an easier one.. or at least shorter.
Monday 9 July 2007
More climbing...
Well after the car was towed on Saturday I went back to the works to do the Brown circuit. Pulled onto the first problem and my leg didn't feel good at all but that was pretty much the only time I noticed it during the circuit. It didn't feel perfect doing big rockovers or pressing up into undercuts but I think thats due to my leg being very weak at the moment, even if it doesn't look that much smaller than my left leg. My skin was sore!
Spent sunday sorting out paperwork for the beetle, the insurance company required a lot of different docuements. Got all of them posted today, a letter I recieved told me they're treating it as a total loss. I hope they salavage some bits off it before it goes the journey but i'm not sure they will.
Today I headed back to the works a bit unsure about what to embark on next, the blue circuit seemed the logical choice but i'm not a fan of some of the more juggy holds on this circuit. Instead I opted for the blacks. The first five seemed ridiculously tweaky but after a quick rest my fingers calmed down a bit (maybe it was shock, 5 months of none crimping to little dirty crimps...), I carried on ticking most of the circuit, I think I dismissed 5 problems due to moves that just didn't seem worth it, the inevitable happened however and on one delicate slabby move I slipped and took the full length fall. Well at least its not going to be something hanging over my head any longer.
Now my skin is sore, really sore, I hope that those first 5 problems haven't tweaked anything, won't know for sure until tomorrow I guess. Might give myself a bit of a break before next session, I dont want to do any more circuits they're a bit dull and a lot of problems seem to be 'trick' problems that I doubt will really contribute much to getting strong again. Maybe a light session down the works with a bit on the comp wall and then i'm ready for the board?!?...
Spent sunday sorting out paperwork for the beetle, the insurance company required a lot of different docuements. Got all of them posted today, a letter I recieved told me they're treating it as a total loss. I hope they salavage some bits off it before it goes the journey but i'm not sure they will.
Today I headed back to the works a bit unsure about what to embark on next, the blue circuit seemed the logical choice but i'm not a fan of some of the more juggy holds on this circuit. Instead I opted for the blacks. The first five seemed ridiculously tweaky but after a quick rest my fingers calmed down a bit (maybe it was shock, 5 months of none crimping to little dirty crimps...), I carried on ticking most of the circuit, I think I dismissed 5 problems due to moves that just didn't seem worth it, the inevitable happened however and on one delicate slabby move I slipped and took the full length fall. Well at least its not going to be something hanging over my head any longer.
Now my skin is sore, really sore, I hope that those first 5 problems haven't tweaked anything, won't know for sure until tomorrow I guess. Might give myself a bit of a break before next session, I dont want to do any more circuits they're a bit dull and a lot of problems seem to be 'trick' problems that I doubt will really contribute much to getting strong again. Maybe a light session down the works with a bit on the comp wall and then i'm ready for the board?!?...
Saturday 7 July 2007
Towed.
Well the bug was just towed. I really don't understand some people mind you, I spoke to the lady on the phone yesterday and said "it's low, and its got a front mounted oil cooler, it can't go up really steep ramps is this going to be a problem?"..."no, it'll be fine.
Luckily the number plate was the only thing to get mashed.
Water was pouring out from the heater channels and the exhasut system. It's the first time i've been able to see the underneath of the vehicle well. The floor pans looked perfect and the channels were really not that bad...
Sad to see it go...
Friday 6 July 2007
Discharged!
Yesterday I had another hospital apointment, turned up, didn't have the usual long wait for X-ray, and then I was called in (to see the registrar again...), he showed me my latest x-ray from the front and the side and you could barely even see a line. Awesome. Can I climb? Yes. Can I drive? Yes. Spent the next 5 minutes saying thanks and shaking the blokes hand before driving home. A bit jerky.
After lunch Nat and I went and picked up some new boots and then on to the works. At this point I remembered just how painful dragons are at first, pleased to see however that 5.10 have fixed the side of the heel and the silver uppers that used to rip through. The aim of the sessions was to do the green circuit, pulled on problem one, right foot in agony so went back to my bag and delved deep to see what nasty/stinky/old boots I had with me. Problems 1-15, were easy but I found myself concentrating an awful lot on my feet and big rockovers (like you find on big holds) were a little testing for my calf muscle. Rest. 16-25 getting back into it. Rest. Do the remaining problems. No falls, but I dont want to leave it too long incase it becomes a mental barrier, I'd planned to quest up the site of injury and drop off but I didn't think it would do wonders for Nat's confidence. Upper body was feeling relatively unworked so went to the new bit of board. [The climbing works is damn good at responding to what its members want, maybe it would be better with less jugs but at least there's some more steep stuff]. Did a few problems on here, red juggy one on lhs, purple juggy one up middle and red juggy one on rhs (the last done without any faggotry as my leg just wasn't up for it).
So first session back no real problems, high rockovers and pressing up into undercuts were the only things I actually noticed. Next session the brown's? I'm really not sure what to do, I don't want to injure myself but really want to get back up the board. its not as if you use your legs that much up there anyway.
Afterwards went to the Sheaf for the first time in ages, good to see people and good to see jon before he departs. The farmers blonde wasn't as good as i'd remembered and stay clear of the 'Missy Sippy', it tasted as if someone had mixed strong coffee with ale (maybe it's what Dobbin had?!?). Finished off with a pint of green bullet, ok, but not as good as the FB.
After reading Dobbin's paranoi about weight - I weighed myself after the pub - 55.3kg's
Now I must be off to see a Buffoon about a Car.
After lunch Nat and I went and picked up some new boots and then on to the works. At this point I remembered just how painful dragons are at first, pleased to see however that 5.10 have fixed the side of the heel and the silver uppers that used to rip through. The aim of the sessions was to do the green circuit, pulled on problem one, right foot in agony so went back to my bag and delved deep to see what nasty/stinky/old boots I had with me. Problems 1-15, were easy but I found myself concentrating an awful lot on my feet and big rockovers (like you find on big holds) were a little testing for my calf muscle. Rest. 16-25 getting back into it. Rest. Do the remaining problems. No falls, but I dont want to leave it too long incase it becomes a mental barrier, I'd planned to quest up the site of injury and drop off but I didn't think it would do wonders for Nat's confidence. Upper body was feeling relatively unworked so went to the new bit of board. [The climbing works is damn good at responding to what its members want, maybe it would be better with less jugs but at least there's some more steep stuff]. Did a few problems on here, red juggy one on lhs, purple juggy one up middle and red juggy one on rhs (the last done without any faggotry as my leg just wasn't up for it).
So first session back no real problems, high rockovers and pressing up into undercuts were the only things I actually noticed. Next session the brown's? I'm really not sure what to do, I don't want to injure myself but really want to get back up the board. its not as if you use your legs that much up there anyway.
Afterwards went to the Sheaf for the first time in ages, good to see people and good to see jon before he departs. The farmers blonde wasn't as good as i'd remembered and stay clear of the 'Missy Sippy', it tasted as if someone had mixed strong coffee with ale (maybe it's what Dobbin had?!?). Finished off with a pint of green bullet, ok, but not as good as the FB.
After reading Dobbin's paranoi about weight - I weighed myself after the pub - 55.3kg's
Now I must be off to see a Buffoon about a Car.
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