At the start of the week the odd feeling cod finger hadn't improved or got any worse, i've been holding back my board visits in the hope it might just go away. This hasn't happened so I went down to the works to try and identify what was wrong with it and therefore what on earth I should do, the night wasn't really conclusive, warming up it was feelign fine until a sharp jug put pressure on it, after I stepped off it didn't hurt, carried on warming up and something felt a bit sore on one of the reds but again nothing I could put my finger on, I carried on warming up, did some probems with Dave and he corrected the crap beta travs gave me on a new problem on the training board (given 8a+), the first move that had been kicking my ass went first go and dave promptly ticked the problem. Sat down and Mike Lea (Lee maybe?) started discussing the school and told me how happy it would make him to see the boards burn, did someone pick on him while he was up there or something? He certainly spoke of the place in a bitter way.
Anyway the next morning my finger was a little sore in the side, for this reason I decided i'll take a break rather than risk making it worse, i mean whats two weeks off compared to five months? and its not as if getting back to strength was taking ages.
Due to the above, I headed to cancel my gym membership (that i forgot about completely), it has a 30 day cancellation clause so I can use it in my rest time. I decided while I was there I should make use of the 40 min walk each way and have a session:
Bench Press
Fly
Shoulder Press
Behind Neck Shoulder Press
Incline Bench
Curls
Tricep Extensions
Upright Row
Lower Back
Leg Raises
Lat Pull Down
Seated Row
Vertical Traxion
...collapse in sauna. The soreness is still with me!
Que rant: Why at these gyms do people hand out stupid advice? For instance, why is the 60 year old man with a huge beer gut doing crunches? It's a waste of his time, get on the treadmill eat less rubbish and it'll go, rock around 30 times on a mat and it will not. Incidentally why is it that the same people seem to have some kind of nudist streak and insist on doing absoloutely everything they possibly can in the changing rooms nude? Hair Drying, Shaving, Weighing themselves....
On another note, I found an available unit for the school (Don't get too excited people its pricey), 1700 sqft, £7250 per annum 18ft ceilings (or so i'm told), parking and just down the road from the school (Edmund Rd), waiting for the bloke to call me back about the rental agreement to see how it would need to be paid. I've spent a while looking and THIS is the only unit that seems to suit. Let's see if others have done better or more importantly come crunch time who'll put their money where their mouth is!!!
Was at the works last night for a bit of spotting duty, to be honest I was pretty unimpressed to see what had been put up on the new steep boards, the hardest problems (excluding the volume nonsense) looked on for the flash, or am I way off? (The grey one up the 55 deg and the green up the far right section?), I hope there's smaller holds to come, all the holds seemed pretty big, disapointing. You'll be pleased to see though that the kiddies boulder now has a rainbow painted on it! Great stuff....?
3 comments:
Mike Lea is a miserable old git with a chip on his shoulder.
Is there consensus on the grades of any of those problems on The Works board yet (I hear 8a maybe for the problem you mentioned given 8a+)? It's annoying having no idea how hard things are when they have been graded before anyone's done em. 4 move red problem on the right given 8a for example? Two blue ones given 7c+? Green 7c? I have no frame of reference at the moment and hence no idea.
:(
Think you're probably right about the comp wall problems as when they were setting them on Wednesday Sam reckoned they were "up to 7b+/7c".
Cheers, J.
Yeah Dave and I agree'd on the Green one with the bobbly hold.
The red and black one at the RHS I did before the hold was moved upwards and its now a litte soft at 8a (Start, slap left, right hand up to flakey crimp thing, used to be a jump to the pocket, match next to it if you want, top?)
The LHS blue problem is soft for 7c+ and the brigh orange at the extreme left is soft (and crap).
The Green you were trying that time I've only had one go at but 7c would seem reasonable.
Anymore you want opinions on?
The comp wall blows goats.
Cheers. Pretty much what I thought so that's good. I reckon based on this that the blue problem in the middle given 7c+ (two finger pocket and two little edges etc) is also 7c. There are some decent problems on that board and I can feel that they are doing me some good.
Did a couple of problems on the comp wall today. They were shit. Maybe I'm biased as I'm better at pulling hard on small holds but I can't see the value in hugging volumes and heelhooking as training.
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