Woodwell, School...

After my last post this was sitting in my pm box:

Just read the last post on your blog and thought I'd just confirm that the quote about The School "back in the day" is total bollocks. Although I was never a particularly regular visitor to The School (my own board took up most of my time) I went quite a few times and knew pretty much everyone who did go regularly from when it was built. This halcyon view of 30 (?) or so people all happily training in their own groups with punters bumbling about alongside Malc and Stuart is utter tosh. If anything more people use the place now (by the sound of things). I don't know why there is such a feeling of hostility towards the School and it's users. It just seems a bit sad. The place has always been slightly elitist but just because you need to climb pretty hard to get the most out of it and there is f*ck all wrong with that.

So that's clarified that!

Anyway, I finally got out last week. Initial plans for a Monday trip were ruined by the threat of bad weather, on wednesday I had to see a man about a cyclops (some piece of die tracing equipment) up near leeds/bradford. I slung my kit and mats into the car. I dropped Nat off at work (nice business park on the North side of Wakefield) and carried on further North hitting about as much of the rush hour traffic as is physically possible. After my meeting (which was pointless and didn't last long at all) I decided on my destination, now caley, Almscliffe etc would of been the logical choice but I was psyched to try something hard. Over to Woodwell it was then. Warmed up on all the steep easy problems which are mostly nice but I feel they lack a logical or good finishing hold? I then did some of the problems on the LHS, beauty of being etc. After that I had a brief hang on the Art of Self Destruction to warm up, must say the top bit felt far too easy to be F8a/V11 so I towelled off the soapy undercuts and gave it a go, the first move is a long way and the footlock LH up 1st beta was failing me, changed my sequence using more of a toe jam and RH up first and got matched up on the crimps, thumb over the sharp pointy bit. Tension and lift your foot up to the glassy polish then push for a reasonable pocket around the lip before finishing. Can't really say if it justifies the grade? It certainly isnt hard for the grade.
After this I had a large bit of cake and realised just how cold it was now that my jumper was covered in limestone gunk and water. I moved on to the next buttress and did the 7b traverse (name?) that starts after the hard section of anesthesia. I then tried it from the true start miles to the left, further than is logical even. The third ish move proved to be a stopper for me the LH hold being a bit too slopey. I decided to try it from the "better" crimps (1 move further on) and managed a good link past the jug on the 7b, stepped off at this point to try and reserve some energy for a decent push, this was futile however as my forearms were starting to feel as if i'd been using a steak hammer on them... A few half hearted attempts and I decided to call it a day, passed gregs free guide on to some guy who was using the Lancashire route guide as his bible, he was very pleased.
I had a board session on friday but was still tired, had a few good goes at my project but didn't manage it, dave mason was back and looking fairly strong.
Last night I had a board session with Lee, conditions seemed pretty rubbish suprisingly and it took me around 6 goes just to hold the swing on stuey, not a good sign. The next go however was to be the best i'd had. Pulled on, RH into U/cut, foot higher on kickboard, RF up to 1st u/cut, flick to pinch, adjust before matching feet and PULLING into the horizontal pinch, campus really hard, LH properly over the blue edge but no energy left to even try and fight the swing. DAMN, Lee even gave me a minute before the mocking started. Tried again but had no energy left...Next time surely?

Boring stuff below:
After an exchange of pm's with greg about the lines and stuff at woodwell I was left a bit confused. It seems (at least to me) that anesthesia has only had one true repeat by greg himself the other two seem to have been less than pure (not just for going high at the end), as they started one or two moves from the JG start, this has probably all come about from the stick it! footage, remember people sit down where you think it starts then move left until your 6" from the floor with your LH. IT STARTS HERE!!! It also turns out that the good link I put together gets a grade of its own, if you don't step off on the easy stuff. Stupid..Stupid.