From HERO to ZER0

Monday night I ventured up the board, i'd been avoiding it due to my finger swelling up on even large holds which lets be fair: the board has very little of.
Warmed up well, lock was feeling good etc. Pointed dobbin at my as yet unamed new ish 7b(+). Had a quick go at stuey, feeling really strong on the pinch, and the swing but drop it, another go shows temperatures to be far from ideal. There were a lot of bodies in the room, still good to see the place busy ish sessions can be very dull up there alone. Had a quick go at snot, half hearted but just to see how it was feeling, my conclusion is doable but first I should finish stuey. Tried my HARD problem, did well on it but again my thoughts were on the slightly warm conditions so I did a few ticky odds and ends before getting onto my circuit of doom! Pulled on to Total Recoil BB, onto the small pinch did a double snatch caused by grease and stepped off very angry. Next go I got through that move (shakily) and headed up to the top, down basic jez, across into basic bowie, up to the crimp then the little pinch, feeling wrecked now, pull foot up and then sag down onto the mat after a pitiful slap. Pleased with my effort, warm down with some footless problems and then do some bench press. A really good session despite it being AGES since I trained up there...
Yesterday I rested and wasted lots of time configuring random remote access clients for use with a university super computer. At the end of the day I still couldnt logon.
Up early today which was novel, again spend ages faffing to get nowhere, well not nowehere I can logon, I just can't do anything, well I can but it wont show me it.
Walked up the board still psyched from Mon's session. Warm up feeling pretty rubbish, have to try a bit too hard on basic jez...Add a few others to my warm up to make sure its not just a slow start, try basic ben and drop c45 and again drop c45 and again...you get the picture. Instead of trashing myself I realised that I probably overdid it on monday and call it a night after about 40 mins. I chose to console myself later by getting some food from the broomhill friary, it seems to me that this establishments has gone seriously down hill over the last 6 months. Boo HISS!
Looking forward to the weekend now, hopefully Nat and I will have no suprise visits from her brother and be able to get out and do some easy bouldering. Not looking forward to the crowds to be honest but I think I may have a plan.
Turns out my Ipod is one of the few models where the volume can't be uncapped, which is a shame but maybe its time to splash out on some funky headphones? who knows.

oh - Keith was up the board when I arrived, filming himself on Feel the pinch, supposedly he's been getting very close (c45), he's going for the womens way of jumping rather than my beefy lock beta, granted i'm yet to do it that way but a climing shire horse should surely be tempted by the beefier option? I also believe that if he is to do it, that it would be its only repeat?