Firstly Font:
We left Sheffield late ish on wednesday night, drove down to watford in time to be plied with alcohol and food by Nat's family before heading on in the morning (thur) to dover and then across to dunkerque.
We should have been able to climb on thur however the parisiens had unkindly blocked paris ring road and it took a bloody age to get to font. We stayed at the maisonbleau which is right near buthiers (SW font). It was amazing, especially due to the great deal that Neil did for us. Thanks for that.
It rained that night and I was feeling a bit annoyed on friday morning after all its a long drive if it rains constantly, anyway the skys were blue so we headed out to check out project no1. Atomic playboy, this tackles a thin seem on a gently overhanging wall traversing r-l then up. The feet are huge and as it's 8a+ you can all guess what the hand holds are like. Anyway the curved top of the boulder hadn't fought the rain and the water was running down the line of holds. Bollocks.
We headed over to elephant and pootled about on bits and bobs to get used to Font again. Nat doing markedly better than last time on her very first problem which was impressive even if she seems to be less than happy with her rapid rate of improvement (I don't think she understands quite how long climbing actually takes to establish yourself at a reasonable level). After elephant we went the Cuvier Rampart for me to get spanked by c'etait demain and to watch Pete and Doyle get spanked by the watchtower. They left for cell block forumla 1 we stayed later.
Sat was the best conditions I have ever experienced in font, blue skies, it was cold (frost on the car), we headed to isatis mainly for Natalie, we arrived to see pete dispatch Sur-prises first go of this session. Nat and I warmed up while Mawson tried that crimpy 7b+, pete offered a hold cleaning service from a nearby (flimsy) sappling, he was high, hilarious to watch. Nat did a few more good things including a few reds before we ended up at El Poussif El Poussah, I pulled on el poussah and dispatched it swiftly (its always been a battle), it's so much nicer when its cold, I then settled a long standing battle with El Poussif (pic to follow, the only one due to shitty camera syndrome). Neil turned up afer bottling the last move of l'arrache couer and with directions from Pete dispatched El Poussah the crazy french way with your toe above your head, that sequence is the epitomy of weird climbing gayness.
I then went up to try Dolce vita beta and stopped to look at l'arrache couer, my god is it high but what a line. Dolce vita didn't go but I did get close crimping ripples that i'm sure are for your thumbs. Did another 7b up here and a couple of easy 7a+'s (read soft). We then sacked it to cuisinere.
After re-warming up I got involved with karma, suprised myself by holding the sloper 1st got and moving my heel on, this happened a few times but the heel just wouldn't sit in the right place, I then tried jumping crossed over and bearly quadrospazzed myself, tiring I decided to quit. More mileage with nat and then the day ended (it was nearly dark) with pete hurling himself around on double entorse, he got it. Doyle and I got involved with a 7a+ nearby, it was sharp and unpleasant and a heel we discounted could of saved us both some pain (and potentially some cod finger)....
and so to the other item in the title, my (now renamed) collateral ligament sprain aka pollock finger remains, my right hand ring finger has picked up a more traditional feeling of cod finger. Bollocks, I am so fed up of being injured.
The next day it rained, so we left. Watching pete pour pints over himself on the ferry was very entertaining.
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