Friday 7 September 2007

Again?

Being a bit of a plonker I managed to leave all of my normal climbing gear in the boot of the car which went in for service on wednesday, with all of the hassle with warranties etc. the parts havent all been ordered then the garage had a call back from Fiat this morning saying "actually, if the drivers side is knackered change all of the front end" (he was referring to most of the front suspension that appears to be trashed), of course this means that they haven't ordered all of the parts and they wont arrive until today around closing time so it will be monday that the car is back to us and even then it needs to go to Hawley's to get the new tyres.
Nat headed down to the works around lunch time wearing an old pair of my evolv predators which weren't ideal and some filthy chalk bag from the depths of my box full of old cr*p. Like I predicted it was horrible and we didn't stay for long. Percy and Sam were route setting and showed me with great delight that they had managed to attach screw on's to the really nice square cut pusher slopers. One problem featured an additional screw-on, on each hold. I returned later that night and only used about half of them. As it was still hot the board seemed like a crazy idea so I went for mileage, trying to tick as many of the new red/pinks that just went up. Didn't get round to trying about 5 problems one of which I wont be going near without a big group of spotters. The rest were all relatively pleasant. In the "room" behind the comp wall a few were especially good, one involving a XXL pusher sloper and a fair deal of slapping, and the other going up the rhs of the newly steepened section.
Speaking to Sam the fate of the fixed board is set, it is to have all of the screw-ons left on and 20-25 'signature' problems put up for life, these will be taken down, cleaned and put up exactly the same if they become dirty. Will that conjure up more interest for that section? Personally I doubt it. I made the suggestion of loosing one side of the campus board and steepening up the other to create a board which was listened to and in my opinion is the only way they will be able to squeeze in a decent training board without loosing valuable seeting areas.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

that'd be good, like a giant cressbrook board...

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