Continuing the one day on one day off trend I headed to the works once again. On the way stopping at B&Q for some random rubbish and then an Antique shop.. pretty much because Nat wanted to. I'm not sure where she thought the oak bed she liked would go in our flat, it was so big it would take up the entire living area and probably break the floor slab.... but even so.
When we got there it was pretty hot and I was psyched but not for anything in particular, this led to me doing a fair bit of wandering before actually doing anything.
Anyway, warmed up on the slab, did a few greens, a brown and then a new red and black (no 5 I think, was v nice.), after this I was pretty much at a loss as to what I should try next. Got on the comp wall slab and did a couple of problems, the red and black thing and the crimpy pink. Did another juggy one up the curved wall and was feeling suprisingly strong.
A while ago when the yellow circuit was set and I was pestering everyone in sight down the works for climbing based knowledge or conversation I shoved a few of my friends in the direction of one or two yellow problems on the stepped wall and on the skips, some climbed them admirably, some struggled which led me to believe these problems were trickier than they appeared. Now not having a frame on my leg, it was my turn to try. Pulled on to the lhs yellow on the stepped wall, powered up the arete and found myself comfortably pulling between rounded blobs to the top. Wow, now i was psyched. Next up I headed for the closest skip and to a problem I saw Trav's climb pretty much without feet and Mike Lee climb as if feet were hands. Despatched this, again comfortably and using my feet well. Next up I headed to the next skip over and the double dog's bollocks holds, powered through to the arete but failed getting my feet on the little hold on the flash, 2nd go proved easier if a little un-stylish. Feeling really strong at this point, a bit over confident and very happy. Next up was a yellow up the slab between the skips and the steps. SS, to a weird pod and a little moon shaped crimp, feet up, LH on razor, left foot up again, lock to big slopey boss and match, right foot up, left on razor edge and a big lock / pop / pull to a good crimp... or so I thought, hit the crimp realised it wasn't quite as good as I expected, oh sh*t i'm high, spotter in wrong place, massive fall, heart in mouth but leg still in one piece. Bomb off the top a few more times.
Tick all the yellows on the stepped bit and most on the skips then do another couple of yellows in the inner 'room' then a few easier ones on comp wall. Tried the greens up the barrel at the end of the session, it highlighted just what my leg can't do: push off sloping edges hard. Ah well.... Damn good session. My arms are strong and I feel they might have more potential after all those gym sessions than ever before. My fingers were feeling strong but I don't think they've quite caught up yet.
Had a quick chat to Fatdoc then to Graeme and Sam about the BBC's and Cliffhanger. At this point I was very tempted to enter, got told the wall being built is big so headed up to Graves Park for a look. I've never been up there before, its really nice!
Anyway the wall looks big. I think i'll skip this BBC, it would be foolish to push myself hard in a competitive situation this soon after coming back. Really psyched to get back up the board next week and find out if today's session was really a fluke. I think i'll stick with the same routine as usual:
Chalk and Blow x 2
C & B Reverse x 2
Basic Bannisters variation
48 flag womens's way
Basic Jez
Flash It!
Basic Knitwear/Bowie
Schoolboy
Basic Ben
Turd Reich
Too fluffy
Snot!
I'll see how far i get through that lot before I fail. I reckon it'll be basic knitwear that does for me.
3 comments:
Clearly, its been a long time - what the fuck is 48 flag? ;-) its 38 flag you numpty!
clearly!!! I'm thinking one more session down the works and then it's TIME....
welcome back.
Nibile.
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