Saturday 26 April 2008

Tor Bound

The weather forecast was good for Saturday so Nat and I had already planned to get up at a decent hour and go for a wander over near Rubicon. I decided that it would be nice to check out WCJ, on crossing the bridge at Rubicon there were a few people on Kudos wall and a few other on Salar (it looked like Debbie Rock Attrocity as i'm sure it was her dog). When we arrived at the Cornice I was pretty shocked, i've never been to it this early in the season and it was in full view from the railway abutment. Walking right near the river the usual jungle of nettles and stuff hadn't yet grown and the water was pretty darn close to the path. The actual rock wasn't as wet as I expected, left of the Weakling was dry, so that's Yorkshire 8b (8a? 7c+ probably) and Zippys offerings from a few years ago. The rest of the crag wasn't in a bad state either, there was no seepage from the upper roof, the middle section was seeping quite a lot still, just below the height of the cleft on Brachiation, another month and maybe just maybe it'll be in conditions (I don't know why I care i've spent far too long down there for the two summers prior to my injury).
After this we walked back to Rubicon and had a bit of a wander about. Bumped into Cubitt while watching someone unnecessarily polish up Salar because lets face it if you can't climb the starting groove you shouldn't be on it, then Ned and Varian over at Kudos, Dan was trying something that looked hideous and proved that his hands didn't sweat when I commented about the heat.
Nat and I then got back into the car (which I got to thrash around the peak for the first time) and headed over to the Tor so she could play on the traverse and Boot Boys start (my recommendation).
The crag was empty apart from Bentley who always looks dismayingly strong. I warmed up on the traverse as Nat played about on it a bit, it didn't take her long to do it. Next up pinches wall, she didn't participate. I then failed on A Little Extra jump start due to my right leg no longer being able to jump which was slightly frustrating as I like this problem, I'll just have to pull harder on my left arm. Next up I stuck Nat on BB start, she did well but failed on the last move. I'm not too surprised there I forgot quite how powerful it was.
I've tried powerband about twice in the past, I don't like it but thats probably because I can't do it so today I thought I'd put in a bit of effort (stupid idea after this long off?), anyway I put in a few good links, one from ignoring the sit start to the last move however I didn't work out the last move, left foot on pillar? just monster down? After this I forgot to rest and climbed until I was making little or no progress. I got a bit moody until I realised that I was expecting too much. I packed up and had a quick play on Bens roof (not expecting much), I climbed from the start through the crux then stepped off, my fingers obviously aren't in bad shape.
The car is now clicking as it cools off downstairs.
All in all a great day and amazing to be out climbing with my missus in the sun.

No comments:

Please disregard anything you read on this page. It's all just random thoughts and opinions based on very little. Therefore it's not worth getting upset about. In fact; just don't bother reading it, it'd make life easier for everyone involved.