Jerry! Jerry... Jerry?

When Friday came and it looked as if it would be a bit of effort to find dry rock both Nat and I decided that we didn't want the hassle (the first time in a while that I've slipped back to this mindset). She'd had a bad week, we needed to make some fairly big decisions and anything else tricky seemed more hassle than it was worth. So, instead, on Friday night we had a session together at the Works, a rare thing in two ways:
a) I went there voluntarily
b) We got to climb together - we seem to spend all week out of sync with her at one wall and me at another. I'm resting whilst she's climbing etc.
Immediately when I arrived I felt un-psyched, I don't know what it is about the climbing in there it just doesn't tempt me and I always dream about 'what it could have been'. Wrongly really as its obviously a thriving success. Dobbin amongst others have pointed out that publicly I've been outspoken about the place in a bad manner and although not as intended, from the Works' point of view it always seems like I'm having a stab. I hadn't really thought of my comments on the UKB thread in that manner, simply that like all other things on the forum, they are my worthless opinions and nothing else (time for a signature change to include my blog disclaimer!). Next time I have an opinion on the place I'm keeping quiet.
Typically, 5 mins before we needed to leave for the JM lecture we realised a load of things that we'd been meaning to do, still needed actually doing! A crazed rush around the flat still left us late leaving but didn't stop me bellowing out chants of Jerry, Jerry , Jerry as I jumped into the Punto (officially the worst car in snow, all the power in one chunk, very low in the rev range and a very Italian traction control system!). As we arrived I was shocked to not find the works heaving outside, nor was it heaving inside. Nat and I reserved seats for James Blay and friends just one row back.
The lecture started well... the Foundry gag had me thinking that it was going to be the best lecture I'd been to, sadly it wasn't. Don't get me wrong it wasn't bad but he didn't seem to have an awful lot to say. Unseen training footage, monkeys chasing banana's and some cracking photos carried him through.
One good thing did come of the night; on leaving the works Nat turned to me and granted me the board I'd been wanting to build for a few years now. Balcony board was a failure. Wardrobe board will be no such thing!
Space is limited but I have a few things I REALLY want to tick this year and one thing that I want to try and hopefully tick next season. All but the latter are steep and completely reliant on finger strength and power.


My idea currently is to have a low roof leading into a steep section of board finishing on a slightly overhanging panel to allow for some horrendous finishing holds.

The room is as follows:



any other brainwaves are very welcome.

This is getting long but I can't quite be bothered to cut it into two...

This afternoon Dobbin and I met up at the Foundry. On Sunday I had beasted myself in a short but very sharp BM session. My fingers felt creaky and my forearms, shoulders and upper back seemed to ache deeply. As I warmed up slowly whilst talking a lot I contemplated going home but kept quiet until I started failing where last week I was climbing so well. Dobbin pointed out that he thought it was my ego stopping me and that I should drop my intensity and climb like that. I pointed out that it wasn't the failing that was bothering me. I wanted to train power and lower grade easy stuff just wasn't going to achieve this, quitting early and returning fully rested the next day seemed more sensible? At this point I was ready to go until I realised that climbing on Tues would ruin my chances of performing on the grit on Wednesday.
Time to whip out "eye of the tiger" on my iPod and think of Rocky II during my boot change. Obviously my dragon's had something in them as from then on I climbed well, very well even. Despite lacking power I was despatching relatively well (or so I think?). Everything felt tired, I hit things wrong but seemingly continued until I made a last desperate slap to the finishing sloper or jug and then dropped off. Very confused that I actually made it to the top!