I just thought I should mention that tonight I managed to complete a fingerboard session. At home, without anyone to train with and despite my Creative I-trigue amplifier dying half way through my first track (the speakers on their own are pitifully weak)!
Warm up with pull ups then following the Variable's 3-2-1 path to back 2 glory:
Open:
3
Front 3 Repeater
2mins
Back 3 Repeater
2mins
2
Mid 2 Repeater
2mins
Front 2 Repeater
2mins
Back 2 Repeater - fail on 5th
2mins
1
Slopey Mono - Max hang
Half-Crimped
2 x Encores - 4 fingers half on large holds
2mins between
2 x Repeaters - 4 fingers half on small holds
2mins between
Sloper:
Middle Sloper (35 deg?)
1 Encore
END
Progress with dead hanging is rapid. Back 2 repeaters have shot up from me not being able to do a 7 sec hang to being able to do 5. Mono's are just breaking themselves in nicely as well! Encores seem pretty hard core and you can really feel the full lock in your elbows, not too good I'm sure? The board didn't rip off the wall which is nice but I've realised that mounting it above a door frame does have its issues:
- You (or more likely I) need a cheat stone
- Its useless for doing one armers on all but the central holds there's simply not room. That means I lose my party piece. Tried doing one with my legs trailing up the door frame to stay open but unsurprisingly it didn't feel very natural
- The frame gets in the way a bit when open handing the smaller holds blocking the way in which the fingers 'tuck up'
2 comments:
you doing these repeaters one or two handed? i can't imagine back 2 on one arm! my fingers would snap!(or wouldn't even be on for long enough to snap)
jeez, does that question even need answering this is my blog not www.back2monster.com?
I am pitiful open handed, pitiful! In fact it turns out all my power lies in my thumbs so when I don't have those engaged I'm weak.
In answer to your question then: 2 hands.
With it mounted above the door frame I think it really limits what you can do on one arm, the frame gets in the way. This is a bit annoying for my crimping stuff but I think I don't need to worry about that for a while. I need to balance out my open handed weakness. Once that's done I can think of improving other things.
Post a Comment