More School Room....

Went up to the school on friday with Dave again, had a really good session, managed unamed as well as a few other things before ending up on the cressbrook board. My fingers are starting to wake up a little bit after their rest period which is nice.
Went back up there today. On entering some of the artists approached me asking if I could confirm or deny the rumour that the school had been granted a reprieve for one year. I couldn't so I sent nic a txt and waited for the answer. It came later, 1 more year, excellent news, really cheered me up and my session was really good (and amusing as I had Ben and JLS doing their best foreign accents). The tunes were good tonight as well, bitcomet is currently going crazy downloading all the stuff ben played, about time to as my DJ Shadow 2003 Essential Mix is getting a bit overplayed.
Today I managed to get up Driller Killer - Hammer Horror ending and then had a lot of really good goes on School Girl, didn't quite get it but i've never found it easy and suprised myself. Hit the pinch on too fluffy, rotated wildly and came off spectacularly. After this I moved my attention onto the cressbrook board, did a few little things, closer on Uncle Crimpy guts, did micro machines. Dave is looking good and strong on that board now, will be interesting to see what he gets up in Magic Wood. Switched to one armers to finish, 4kg assistancem, LH 5 reps RH 4, 6kg assitance the same. Did a few campus esque problems to finish. Excellent session. Better conditions after ben turned the outer radiator off, the place looked remarkably clean as well after a number of people put in some effort....Wednesday my Dad is heading down to sheffield to punter around on the grit, I reckon i'll join him but go training later in the day. I bet the tor was in good nic tonight however i'm still not ready to be taking falls onto mats outside...

Channel Surfing

Went to the board on monday, picked up a Sheffield Star up on the way, funny to see they cropped seb out of it, the only person who had set up a proper belay. That pick should give the council and the HSE enough reason to have us out by november. When I stepped outside last thursday the last thing I exepected was to get heckled from Nic stood in a "Titanic" esque pose on top of the school with one flimst runner at around 2/3rds height, never would of held.
Soon after getting there Dave and Ben turned up, and the session pretty much descended into trying anything and everything that we all thought was worth a pop. I don't think any one of us made it to the top of anything especially hard but we came close, my deviant right foot beta on Turd Reich proving good for not only me but Dave as well. Saw some major lanking manouvres from both dave and ben on Basic Ben, bet basic knitwear is a right ball ache if your tall....
We then switched our attention to the cressbrook board, which is rarely used. Nige turned up and soon joined us. Tried uncle crimpy guts but failed on the smallest hold. Tried stuperman, failed miserably, everyone got on a problem Ned and I climbed a while back, it's really good if a little sharp. I think dave want's steely fingers before magic wood in a month or so, if so, the cressbrook board is certainly the way forward.
Going up the board tonight but got woken up really early by the post man with a package and have been feeling pretty rubbish ever since....Hope its worthwile I just feel knackered.

Update

Thursday was graduation, I went from undergraduate to being a graduant to being a graduate all in one day... Went ok, posing for photos and stuff is never fun. It's the first time Nat's folks and mine had met, all went smoothly. Snook off at aroun 5.30 to get a quick session up at the school before the publicity stunt thing (picture in previous post).
The session was rushed but good I guess, did schoolboy again and then did pego, was going to go for total recoil but I didn't have it in me. Went outside to join the photo stunt to find Nic on the top of the schoolroom and various other people up drainpipes. I joined the group of artists on the floor. I had intended to go back in but after a bit of chat I decided it was a bit daft and headed off to the evening meal.
Friday morning came, Nat left with her folks to florida for 3 weeks. Went to Broomhill and had lunch with my folks and a family friend who is currently being treated at Weston Park, given the circumstances he seemed in a good mood and didn't look frail or anything.
Got up this morning with nothing to do so watched Ronin (I haven't got enough films to keep me going for 3 weeks without getting bored), then had lunch and headed up the board. Decided to walk it as that's what I usually do. The leg was feeling very akward and tight until I got through town then it loosened up. Got to the board as Rich H was leaving, re-arranged all of the pads as i'm now very fussy about landings, kicked up all the dust. B*gger. Warmed up Ok, gave flash it a miss incase it triggered the dodgey finger. Did the gift although not 1st time and I struggled. Then moved on to driller killer, couldn't do the last move due to leg but fairly happy with the effort, finger was feeling a little sore so I taped it then did a couple more easy problems before moving over onto the 15 deg board. Didn't manage to get up the problems I tried and kepy shooting off holds, ran out of chalk and my bad skin was meaning I was greasing everything up. Decided to call it a day and walked down to planetfear to buy chalk. No superchalk just moon stuff. Ok, headed over to Decathlon, nope none there either, where can I buy it? the moon stuff just isn't as good. Walked home by this time I was absoloutely knackered. I'm now looking for a good stretching routine, I havent got a lot planned in this 3 weeks now ( i'm going to head over to Europe when Nat gets back for 3-5 weeks instead) so I need something to kill a bit of time. I've never liked stretching so we'll see how it goes.

Graduation Day

No time to chat...

Piccie from tonight's school publicity stunt:

COMPEX

Right, used the compex on my forearms the night of my last session and once again the following day set on:

Sport---> Active Rest ---> level 100 (thats only 10%)

Went to the works early in the afternoon to spot Nat before heading up to the School in the evening with James Blay. Vicky was up there looking strong on the rings (ring workouts look nasty). Warmed up feeling ok until the last problem, stepped off and my LH ring finger was sore to the touch, it faded, I taped, but to be honest its been on my mind ever since. Did Basic Jez, then flash it then got on Basic Ben, cruised the lock up but failed on the move to the PP hold, I couldn't shove off my right foot on the hold you press at the start, it's starting to get annoying, did the top hard move so I put the failure down to the leg. Moved on to Turd Reich, fell off on the last pinch, a damn good effort but my power was fading quickly, a few more goes on that followed by a few on Total Recoil Bradbury Finish left me knackered, did a bit on the 15 deg board and 30 then packed in for the night, reasonable session and suprisingly my body was feeling ok, it might be a bit of a placebo effect but I kind of think that the active rest may have paid off. I'll try it for a while and see how it goes...
Finger worries me, the last thing I want is another injury, it seems ok now, a tiny bit tender if I rub my nail against my A2 pulley but that could just be because i'm fiddling with it.....
Magic Wood still up in the air Should I/Shouldn't I???
Emailed Polish Dave as Ben's blog entry left me a little miffed, I waited 3 years patiently, kept it polite....

The Magic School Boy...

After a bit of a lackluster session last time at the works I was set on heading up to the board, I even avoided mucking around yesterday in the pull-up competition as I wanted to get a feel for how strong/weak I really am after all this time off.
Got out of bed (lunch time), sorted to meet Ned and Dense at the board. Got a phonecall from ned, he'd got overkeen and arrived early. Went up, chatted to Ned, let dense in, Dylan turned up not too much later.
Here we go:
Chalk and blow x 2 normal seq. - Fine
Chalk and blow x 2 reverse handed - Fine
Basic Bannisters variation - Fine apart from I struggled to remember it
Whatever it is Flag women's way - Fine
Basic Jez - Fully locked, feeling STRANG!
Flash It! - My sequence, completely locking the last move. Fine.
Basic Knitwear - Nope, did the start moves, foot popped, changed to Dragons. Did the start move much easier, foot up high on the pinch, couldn't get my calf to move at all, shame but it was due to my leg and nothing else.
Decided to change my plan and try Schoolboy. Pulled on, the pinch seemed a long way away but I seemed to get it just, quick snatch into the traingular pinch, dab foot on undercut, blast out to the bannsiter, foot up and lock for Glory - Nice!
Point Dylan at Driller Killer, what an awesome problem.
Next up tried my party piece - Discology, couldn't do the pop after the cross through, again due to leg a little bit but mainly by this point due to being seriously powered out. Move to the 15 deg board, try Uncle Crimpy Guts but my fingers just don't feel quite ready.
Warm down and head to the works to give Nat a spot. She managed to get up the yellow/green thing up the curved board, got high praise for her progress by a few people which is always encouraging, she's doing well.
Dense, Ned, Foley and Jim are heading off to the land of magic grades. Must say i'm tempted to pack the car and do a 3 week europe trip while Nat's away, slightly worried about gate crashing though although some other people are out there too, Pearson seemed keen on the idea but has to think about how much it'll cost and chat to em, he said he'd get back to me so hopefully I might have the makings of a trip...

My forearms feel sore, I think i'm going to try and use my compex on them later....Wonder how that'll work out.

Cliffhanger - Some thoughts on comps...

Remarkbly the weather was alright today. Got to graves park reasonably early considering my laziness and watched a bit of the qualifying, bit gutted I didn't enter as there didn't seem to be too much volume mounting and there was at least one gift. Had a wander around the rest of the park, there wasn't an amazing amount to do apart from shop, which unfortunately requires money. Abstained from the pull up competition (by the way earlier in the day I told a few people how I once watched Adam Dewhurst do around 60 pull ups in 1 minute at a previous competition, by the end of the day supposedly I could do 65. Genius!) as I want to hit the board fresh tomorrow. Roy told me there's some kind of publicity thing for the save the board on thursday, hopefully I can make it but thursday is graduation.
Anyway afternoon came and it was time for the Final's...Although katy whitaker put in a fine performance to take the win I was heavily un-impressed by average performance of the women, come on girls work your weakness' learn how to lock, at least a little bit.... Its always the same story.
Men's final came, Dan Bradley had a skinful then realised he qualified in 5th (top marks to that bloke), Poor Ste Mac just wasn't tall enough for almost all of the problems, Ryan's forearms are ridiculously long, Stu Watson is strong, Gaz parry has turned from beastly strong to beastly strong with mean fingers and deserved the win.

Now for my thoughts on comps - toyed with the idea of putting this on UKB but then thought better of it:


Whether or not comps are your thing, they exist, people do them and I can't really see the problem with that as long as they're taken for what they are and nobody gets too serious. (a comment written by Natalie Berry last year over on planetfear really did my head in, she basically [and i paraphrase] that she wasn't interested in climbing outdoors at all, for her comps are what mattered...).

Anyway:

At one point I counted over 30 people on the mat's (not including competitors, commentators, photographers and camera men), mostly consisting of WAG's/Boyfriends/Brothers/Mum's and Dads... Is this really necessary? It clutters up the climbing area and means the spectators could be a good 2ft closer if there wasn't this row of hangers on.

Another point - is it ethical to have someone's Mum/Dad/Brother be a judge/brush gimp/time gimp or even be in the area? I don't really think so, conflict of interest so to speak.

Although the commentator was ok today (if a little Hard Plastic esque), wouldn't it be better to have some young enthusiastic climber who knew a little background and wasn't reading off a sheet of figures? I'd say so, he kept screaming pull it, pull it, Doesn't he know the hip thing to say currently is "Kill Ty, Kill..."

One thing that I could definately see upsetting a large crowd like the one that turned out today forthe men's final would be a serious injury such as my own, Why does noone seem to want a spot or offer it? There were certainly enough people hanging about....

On an aside, these events obviously take a lot of effort to organise and pull off so good effort to all those involved, and for all you people out there who missed it, i'm sure British Team Productions will have it available for DVD soon...

Works again.

Went down to the works again, the first thing I noticed was how busy it was, sam was repainting the slabs, the inner 'room' and the surrounding boards, this meant about half of the wall was unmatted and unusable, a tear was being fixed below the stepped boards and on the back wall as well.
A lot of areas out of action, wet weather and a lot of people led to one very busy wall.
I ended up on the comp wall but wasn't climbing that well (realistically i was climbing just as well as previously, I was trying harder things), I warmed up then tried the pink problem out through the roof of the comp wall, was doing ok but didn't have the commitment to take the swing just in case I landed funny. After this I tried the crimpy pink up the barrel section, usually this would be just my thing but I couldn't seem to do the transfer between sidepulls... By this point I was in a bit of a mood, I absoloutely hate trying to get on problems when there are loads of people about, especially people who are blatently not getting anywhere at all.
After a while I calmed down, did the yellow's from last session and some really pleasant black problems. Think i've overdone the works a bit and need a change of scene, it fits in well with my plan to visit the board next session anyway.
If i was going to rate today's session I reckon it would be about a 5/10.....
The weather is looking sh*t at the minute and I overheard that Graves Park and the Marquee/Mat's aren't doing too well in all the rain, could be a mud-bath by tomorrow.
Plan to head over to North Wales next weekend and get the tour from Doyle but again this is weather dependant, i've never really bouldered in NW, just too drawn by LPT to ever bother with a pad.
Nat's off to florida so i've got to fill up 2.5 weeks with as much climbing as humanly possible.

On another note bumped in to Andy Koisch (can't spell his name) down the works, he's always a laugh to climb with and it's always interesting to hear stuff from 'back in the day', he was climbing with jasper sharpe which reminded me of something he said to me last winter when chatting to him about the school he said something like:

"When we were all climbing at the school (probably all climbing F8c as well) we all thought we were really strong putting in big egyptian's on tiny holds up this steep board, then we went to Jasper's board, he was climbing toe on, we realised just what power really is."

Sorry about the discontinuity of the post and gay little (seemingly name dropping, that's not good) tale above....

I am a curious YELLOW!

Continuing the one day on one day off trend I headed to the works once again. On the way stopping at B&Q for some random rubbish and then an Antique shop.. pretty much because Nat wanted to. I'm not sure where she thought the oak bed she liked would go in our flat, it was so big it would take up the entire living area and probably break the floor slab.... but even so.

When we got there it was pretty hot and I was psyched but not for anything in particular, this led to me doing a fair bit of wandering before actually doing anything.

Anyway, warmed up on the slab, did a few greens, a brown and then a new red and black (no 5 I think, was v nice.), after this I was pretty much at a loss as to what I should try next. Got on the comp wall slab and did a couple of problems, the red and black thing and the crimpy pink. Did another juggy one up the curved wall and was feeling suprisingly strong.

A while ago when the yellow circuit was set and I was pestering everyone in sight down the works for climbing based knowledge or conversation I shoved a few of my friends in the direction of one or two yellow problems on the stepped wall and on the skips, some climbed them admirably, some struggled which led me to believe these problems were trickier than they appeared. Now not having a frame on my leg, it was my turn to try. Pulled on to the lhs yellow on the stepped wall, powered up the arete and found myself comfortably pulling between rounded blobs to the top. Wow, now i was psyched. Next up I headed for the closest skip and to a problem I saw Trav's climb pretty much without feet and Mike Lee climb as if feet were hands. Despatched this, again comfortably and using my feet well. Next up I headed to the next skip over and the double dog's bollocks holds, powered through to the arete but failed getting my feet on the little hold on the flash, 2nd go proved easier if a little un-stylish. Feeling really strong at this point, a bit over confident and very happy. Next up was a yellow up the slab between the skips and the steps. SS, to a weird pod and a little moon shaped crimp, feet up, LH on razor, left foot up again, lock to big slopey boss and match, right foot up, left on razor edge and a big lock / pop / pull to a good crimp... or so I thought, hit the crimp realised it wasn't quite as good as I expected, oh sh*t i'm high, spotter in wrong place, massive fall, heart in mouth but leg still in one piece. Bomb off the top a few more times.

Tick all the yellows on the stepped bit and most on the skips then do another couple of yellows in the inner 'room' then a few easier ones on comp wall. Tried the greens up the barrel at the end of the session, it highlighted just what my leg can't do: push off sloping edges hard. Ah well.... Damn good session. My arms are strong and I feel they might have more potential after all those gym sessions than ever before. My fingers were feeling strong but I don't think they've quite caught up yet.

Had a quick chat to Fatdoc then to Graeme and Sam about the BBC's and Cliffhanger. At this point I was very tempted to enter, got told the wall being built is big so headed up to Graves Park for a look. I've never been up there before, its really nice!



Anyway the wall looks big. I think i'll skip this BBC, it would be foolish to push myself hard in a competitive situation this soon after coming back. Really psyched to get back up the board next week and find out if today's session was really a fluke. I think i'll stick with the same routine as usual:


Chalk and Blow x 2
C & B Reverse x 2
Basic Bannisters variation
48 flag womens's way
Basic Jez
Flash It!
Basic Knitwear/Bowie
Schoolboy
Basic Ben
Turd Reich
Too fluffy
Snot!




I'll see how far i get through that lot before I fail. I reckon it'll be basic knitwear that does for me.

Concession...

Right, a while ago over on Dob's blog there was a question raised about the main difference between climbers who work and train and those that don't work or are students. I'll have to concede (although I was dubious at the time), that the main difference is indeed rest. After just starting again with what I thought was a relatively gentle re-introduction (in retrospect I think I may have done a little too much 'volume'), I have been absoloutely knackered and haven't really been up at a decent hour since (taking around 12 hours sleep a night), which would obviously be impossible if you had a life to go alongside your job, or wanted to train at all!

Thankfully I can't feel any pain in my fingers today (apart from my trashed skin), although a few do feel very achey. Is this normal?
One thing is for certain - the easy circuits have got absoloutely massive holds, the intermediate circuits have some really dirty crimps and pockets, the step up must be really tricky for a beginner.
I think my next session has got to be an easier one.. or at least shorter.

More climbing...

Well after the car was towed on Saturday I went back to the works to do the Brown circuit. Pulled onto the first problem and my leg didn't feel good at all but that was pretty much the only time I noticed it during the circuit. It didn't feel perfect doing big rockovers or pressing up into undercuts but I think thats due to my leg being very weak at the moment, even if it doesn't look that much smaller than my left leg. My skin was sore!
Spent sunday sorting out paperwork for the beetle, the insurance company required a lot of different docuements. Got all of them posted today, a letter I recieved told me they're treating it as a total loss. I hope they salavage some bits off it before it goes the journey but i'm not sure they will.
Today I headed back to the works a bit unsure about what to embark on next, the blue circuit seemed the logical choice but i'm not a fan of some of the more juggy holds on this circuit. Instead I opted for the blacks. The first five seemed ridiculously tweaky but after a quick rest my fingers calmed down a bit (maybe it was shock, 5 months of none crimping to little dirty crimps...), I carried on ticking most of the circuit, I think I dismissed 5 problems due to moves that just didn't seem worth it, the inevitable happened however and on one delicate slabby move I slipped and took the full length fall. Well at least its not going to be something hanging over my head any longer.
Now my skin is sore, really sore, I hope that those first 5 problems haven't tweaked anything, won't know for sure until tomorrow I guess. Might give myself a bit of a break before next session, I dont want to do any more circuits they're a bit dull and a lot of problems seem to be 'trick' problems that I doubt will really contribute much to getting strong again. Maybe a light session down the works with a bit on the comp wall and then i'm ready for the board?!?...

Towed.

Well the bug was just towed. I really don't understand some people mind you, I spoke to the lady on the phone yesterday and said "it's low, and its got a front mounted oil cooler, it can't go up really steep ramps is this going to be a problem?"..."no, it'll be fine.

Luckily the number plate was the only thing to get mashed.

Water was pouring out from the heater channels and the exhasut system. It's the first time i've been able to see the underneath of the vehicle well. The floor pans looked perfect and the channels were really not that bad...

Sad to see it go...

Discharged!

Yesterday I had another hospital apointment, turned up, didn't have the usual long wait for X-ray, and then I was called in (to see the registrar again...), he showed me my latest x-ray from the front and the side and you could barely even see a line. Awesome. Can I climb? Yes. Can I drive? Yes. Spent the next 5 minutes saying thanks and shaking the blokes hand before driving home. A bit jerky.

After lunch Nat and I went and picked up some new boots and then on to the works. At this point I remembered just how painful dragons are at first, pleased to see however that 5.10 have fixed the side of the heel and the silver uppers that used to rip through. The aim of the sessions was to do the green circuit, pulled on problem one, right foot in agony so went back to my bag and delved deep to see what nasty/stinky/old boots I had with me. Problems 1-15, were easy but I found myself concentrating an awful lot on my feet and big rockovers (like you find on big holds) were a little testing for my calf muscle. Rest. 16-25 getting back into it. Rest. Do the remaining problems. No falls, but I dont want to leave it too long incase it becomes a mental barrier, I'd planned to quest up the site of injury and drop off but I didn't think it would do wonders for Nat's confidence. Upper body was feeling relatively unworked so went to the new bit of board. [The climbing works is damn good at responding to what its members want, maybe it would be better with less jugs but at least there's some more steep stuff]. Did a few problems on here, red juggy one on lhs, purple juggy one up middle and red juggy one on rhs (the last done without any faggotry as my leg just wasn't up for it).

So first session back no real problems, high rockovers and pressing up into undercuts were the only things I actually noticed. Next session the brown's? I'm really not sure what to do, I don't want to injure myself but really want to get back up the board. its not as if you use your legs that much up there anyway.

Afterwards went to the Sheaf for the first time in ages, good to see people and good to see jon before he departs. The farmers blonde wasn't as good as i'd remembered and stay clear of the 'Missy Sippy', it tasted as if someone had mixed strong coffee with ale (maybe it's what Dobbin had?!?). Finished off with a pint of green bullet, ok, but not as good as the FB.

After reading Dobbin's paranoi about weight - I weighed myself after the pub - 55.3kg's

Now I must be off to see a Buffoon about a Car.

Flood Damage

Driving back into Sheffield from the North, everything looked ok. As we reached the flat block it was obvious that it had been badly effected, the gates are jammed open, bricks and stuff are everywhere plus a healthy smearing of sludge on most surfaces (including the remaining cars).

The sludge was even on the roof of the bug...

Looters have stolen the stereo equipment in a non too tidy fashion, damaging the inside and the electronics. All the (refurbed) carpets are soaked, so too is the battery beneath the rear seat.
The engine bay is half full of mud with the tide mark on the breeze block walls being approximately level with the top of the carbs, I think its safe to say that this engine isn't going to turn over again.

The entrance halls to the flat are pretty badly damaged, the whole place stinks.... At least our personal belongings were safe up on the sixth floor, some people weren't so lucky. Not sure how long we'll stick around, probably just long enough to see the bug towed away....

Not good.