Wednesday came and once again Ben convinced me to go out. I fancied the Cornice and the team (Dylan, Lucy, Ben and I) were intending to head down that way. On arrival at Rubicon questions were thrown around about its current condition and as I wasn't overly psyched to get back on HFC after being spanked last time I volunteered to go for a run.
I returned a flash later confirming that it was in a questionable state, dark lines from the lower break meant that it didn't seem worth it, Damn. So after belaying people for a while I finally got back on HFC in the blazing sun, some new beta from Dave Hessledon, traverse left in the break, right foot up really high on tiny little spike, left foot in obvious big hold and a big twist I hit the crimp, WOW progress, I then proceeded to flail on the next moves greasing off time and time again before lowering off for more belay duty. My second attempt was much more productive, failed at the start and then straight back up to the crimp, greasing off. More beta from Dave and Ben led to a great top sequence, LH crimp, RH sidepull, RF high on obvious hold, rock over to little edge up and right, LH takes sidpull as a backhand, sag further right and fall onto the jug. At first it felt very hard to hold the crimp but as conditions improved it looked more and more feasible.
At the end of the day I had 2 or maybe even 3 goes climbing straight through Kudos (hard way, tick!) to the crimp, hitting it and then slipping off, i'm sure if I get matched on those two then i'm in. The first of the 2 or three attempts was so shaky, everything I hit, I hit completel wrong but surprisingly I still shook my way up to a decent height before getting a bit too excited and not really committing to the move in the same way as I do on the dog.
Its funny how things change, the first time I went on this route I didn't really get on well with it, everything seemed unpleasant and a tad stretched but now I really like it. REALLY like it. The sequence flows nicely and I just love the top moves. Hopefully next time its in the bag, I'll go a bit later on though to ensure cool temps. oh Ben and Dave both did HFC, Ben maybe even deserves half a grade extra (or maybe less?) for his in-efficiency on the lower wall ;), he was rewarded with a pint of absolution at the Red Lion, a good pint it was to.
One thing which had me nervous during the night was someone who's name I will not mention forgot a quickdraw and had an absoloute mare of a time trying to thread through without one. Not a great spectacle to watch, it was pretty worrying at times with conflicting information being shouted up.
Tonight I had my very own nightmare; the passenger side brake light went on the Punto and typical fiat design means that it isn't such an easy job, or at least not on the HGT. So off to the works via halfords, I then began what I thought would be a nice quick and easy process in the car park. Panels off, stupid tool thingy (plastic of course) over hex shaped bolts screwdriver through tool and twist, remove rear speaker unit, subwoofer and housing (all standard I might add), find next bolt (not shown in manual), drop rear light assembly out, disconnect, unbolt and unclip, replace bulb then do all in reverse, all for one bulb. The car has a flathead screwdriver in it as standard, shame Fiat didn't think to use flat head screws throughout...On a positive car related note a change in driving style has yielded 62.1mpg over the last few days which isn't a bad average really.
Link For Ed
sorry if I was continually talking this evening, that coffee was a little strong!
2 comments:
Cheers for the link Paul. (and it is for my wife, Honest!). She has had a look already and is psyched to ditch the pink dumbells...
hahaha that link is genius!
as for the loweroff thing fuck me that sounds fucking horrific!
Post a Comment