Friday 27 June 2008

The 'ripper

I've been umming and ahhing about what to post about yesterday, writing and then re-writing the post a few times until finally scrapping the previous version and starting from scratch.
The weather was fairly poor when we arrived but as per usual the journey, music and banter had all been great. After doing the usual suspects and belaying Ben on subculture it was time to make my mind up and pick whatever the hell it was that I wanted to do that day. Well I decided on Grooved Arete, unfortunately that decision came about a minute to late as Chris Sowden started off on the dog. Damn, I was going to finally try the Yorkshire Ripper then. My first dogging effort didn't go too well, I stuggled to find holds let alone sequences. The second, well that went a little better, and I worked out a decent sequence to just below the crux, I even did a few small but decent links. After that go I perked up a bit as it didn't seem as nails as I originally thought. The third dogging go went terribly. I set off from the ground hoping to race through the wet bit and soldier on up to my high point, I didn't however manage to clean the oozing slime from my boot and popped off not too long after leaving easy ground, again I dogged to the crux but I didn't have enough left in me to work out the next bit as by the time I realised that the line deviated right about a metre I was spent. Belayed Ben some more and right at the end he worked out two viable sequences one with the big flake one without (and more logical if you've got the necessary reach), i'm pretty sure it'll be on for him next time we're there. Fish supper!
Next time I visit Kilnsey i'm still not sure what i'll get on. Some of the moves on the route were really good but the holds are pretty grim and I can't see it being a quick tick, is it worth the effort its going to take? i'm really not sure.
Next week Nat is away in Glasgow for work so I have the little punto to go out climbing. I'm tempted to get back on Monsterosity at WCJ after reviewing my sequence for the top roof with Bonjoy...some trickery seems to have been missed/ignored and even though its hard its a hell of a lot closer to home.

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