Monday 23 June 2008

Psych Spike

Well my psych spike seems to have been just that. The motivation has dipped for a full on return to climbing however I'm left looking forward to getting out with people on a regular basis without the feeling that I need to somehow apply my hard gotten training gains in some way shape or form.
Wednesday despite the rubbish forecast and damp predictions for WCJ Dobbin and I quested out. On arrival the Cornice looked in a poor state, dripping in places, running in others. Dob set off up Brachiaton Dance and pointed out that a lot of it was damp and the adjacent routes looked worse. I always worry at WCJ that a tight rope makes people slam into the rock in nasty ways so at the top slump I paid out plenty of rope, I think Dobbin enjoyed the air time and it set him in a braver mindset than usual.
It was then my turn. I remembered just how much I like this route as I cruised up it (quite pleased that I didn't feel tired in any way or struggle with any of the moves). We stripped it and moved over to Free Monster.
It was wet, too wet for Ben to even considering reminding himself of the moves. Disappointed we both sat, ate and discussed as I eyed up Rumble, I was keen to try and do it again but common sense won and we left to go to the works.
I wasn't best pleased to be there but after a bit of persuading I got involved with the training board, pushing myself to flash the new circuit thing there. I didn't do a great deal more of note as my pump just wouldn't subside and my baby soft skin wasn't reacting well to the purple holds that have been added on the easy circuit.
In the time between getting out I've still be relentlessly attending the gym where I continue to get stronger although a little slower. My bench press has improved markedly over the last few weeks with my 1RM now at 65Kg....I bumped into Andy Coish (sp?) and he promptly crushed that by saying he was currently trying for 130Kg but was stuck at 100...Monster.. I then proceeded to crush his notion of being strong by pointing him at an 18yr old who benched 2x190Kg @78kg recently.
Saturday came and despite having done a back workout the previous day I was once again persuaded to head out into the peak. I picked Dobbin up early and we set off for the Tor...in the rain. A good crowd was already there by the time we arrived and more familiar faces turned up later on. Maximum points to Vicky who set off for a run despite the blanket rain and also to Jo for the best Old Skool vest I've seen in a long time.
I got involved with Powerband, I've played before but never really put in any kind of concerted effort as I said I didn't like it. Truthfully it spanked me and plays to every weakness I have. This isn't the case any more and despite the polish and the less than inspiring setting I began to see why people spend so much time on these traversed: The moves are great. Anyway, I didn't bother trying to work any individual moves and started from beginning each time making it past the pillar but failing on the move after going down, 3 goes later I decided that this move needed a bit more attention, the low foot holds are well out of reach so it really is a bit of a hard move. In isolation I find away that basically revolves around my little finger being in instead of out (the way I HAVE to catch it). It then started to get a little bit busy at the right hand side so I decided to gauge my current level of strength on Ben's roof, for which I have the most inefficient sequence ever (not great when you're weak). My first go is better than a month or so ago. I fail on my stupid release from foot on the bar/pinch. Second go I blast past this and get my feet onto the sidewall but it feels like I might either slice my tip off or fire backwards at a high velocity. Instead I step off. The next go I get to the crux (for me) but place my foot badly and ignore it completely (why?), I flopped onto the mat half heatedly and decided to call it a day. No point in destroying myself.

Despite the fact nothing was ticked, I'm happy. I felt reasonably strong, I'd go as far to say damn strong considering I'm doing b*gger all climbing related. I'm not a total tor convert yet but I'd say after some consideration its starting...I think the moves on Stamina Band looks fantastic.

Work is going well, I'm plugging away slowly but it seems like progress is being Made. Two weeks today Nat and I will be at Silverstone to watch the Grand Prix, and a month after that it looks like we're off windsurfing for two weeks somewhere nice. I can't wait.

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