Friday 6 June 2008

Entree

Firstly, why on earth was last night the first time I've walked in from that direction? Its much nicer than walking in from Wormhill and surely not that different in length even if you're heading for the Cornice.
During the walk in I caught a glimpse of Kristian's route the spider, both Dob and I paused. What a line! I've spent a while this afternoon emailing various people to try and extract knowledge and beta wherever possible.
Zippy on it, photo by Chris Craggs:



Dobbin Led the first warm up, supposedly a 6b+. I seconded and to be honest I was starting to regret coming out two days in a row, I was pumped and it showed. At half height I had to use a fair bit of effort to slap for a prominent jug, thankfully that allowed me to recover and I scuttled up to the top. When I got back to the floor I investigated further and found that we were actually on a 7a, not the best warm-up either. We followed this with the actual 6b+ which was really nice and a contender for something I think, (think being the operative word) that Nat might be able to get up on a top rope, thats if she can do the first move.
A bit of deliberation then went on but we decided that Entree was next on the hit list, a route that is famous due to Ben Moon surprising his belayer so much that a waist belay had to be used. Its a great section of rock with really obvious nice looking small holds. The sequence seems straightforward and I believe it is, I'm just not strong enough right now. Progress was good with two moves evading us. We both gave it three good goes the last of which I was feeling really good but a combination of fatigue heat and sore skin led to a half hearted wave at the sharp little crimp/gaston. Oh well, one more to save for another day.
We then moved onto a 7a+ I can't recall the name, much faffing was had until we worked out that we were both pretty fried. The return walk/journey had some interesting/worrying/thought invoking banter until Dobbin declared his blood sugar to be so low he felt ill.
This morning I realised just how tired I really am, my shoulders are sore, my skin is thin and my forearms have a dull ache that just won't go away. I said to Nat that I'd take her out to Cheedale sometime for a wander, possibly tonight depending on her ETA but the weather looks threatening and the Red Deer looks like a more realistic choice of venue.

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