Nat was sick of being a desk jockey all week so we went for a wander around Cheedale on Friday night. I eyed up the spider again and have managed to extract this:
Yeah quality pitch easy for grade probably unless your short. Just a boulder problem through second roof. Well bolted apart from first bolt in a stupid place, i went up the trad crack on left till i could step across to second bolt. One pitch about 35 meters, but you can strip in stages. Its not pumpy at all just a few interesting bits between jugs. well worth the effort though.
I was also told that Gib (sp?) has been on it and found a way to invert and toe hook the break above the crux move thus missing it out. Definitely one to get on.
We then walked on to two tier were I pointed Subterfuge to Nat and suggested she tried it sometime in the future. She seemed to think it looked doable which is promising however I'll wait and see how she gets on before getting to smug. After reversing the collapsing stepping stones we walked along the river bed to Cheedale cornice where I was surprised to find nemesis not only wet but barely distinguishable due to a thick caked on layer of mud goo, I'm guessing its unlikely that will be worth re-bolting this year. The whole place was dripping and was generally uninspiring. As it was getting late and rain was forecast we got back onto the Monsal trail and marched back to the car, it hardly took any time and I'm now adamant that Wormhill walk in is a waste of time.
Porter Cottage in the evening for a little bit of a social and Lee recounting a ghastly story of a recent peg related incident on London Wall. I'd really like to get out next week but the work is stacking up and looking prohibitive.
5 comments:
Since you seem so psyched on The Spider I'll tell you this. James and I went to do it a few years ago. We pulled off a ridiculous amount of rock from the top section. Footholds, handholds, everything. Make sure your belayer has a helmet. The route isn't very hard, there are rests, there are jugs, but after 1 go each pulling holds off we walked away never to try again!
Gaz did it recently so it must be in a climbable state. Just go and get on it. The bolting is fine as I remember it, feels spacey though!
yeah he said he ended up doing it 5 times or so for a video or something, no mention of loose rock mind you.
I'll get on it as soon as I can, I'd hoped to get on it this week but damn literature review seems to be eating my time.
Inverting and toehooking break above?!! That's some chinese whispers!
The holds you use are all solid (apart from the wobbly ones), although some are fragile. But there is a lot of stuff you could pull/stand on which will come off. Expect a degree of adventure. If this doesn't bother you then you'll enjoy it, the climbing is good and the position amazing. If you don't like exposure and dubious rock, stay away.
I'd agree it's soft at 8a. Like doing a 7c+ to a mega rest then doing a hardish 7b+. But contrary to what you've been told I thought it was quite pumpy, however I was tired from Kilnsey the day before.
the beta was second hand a la Dense...
That would explain it. No room in that pin-head for route beta
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