I've been umming and ahhing about what to post about yesterday, writing and then re-writing the post a few times until finally scrapping the previous version and starting from scratch.
The weather was fairly poor when we arrived but as per usual the journey, music and banter had all been great. After doing the usual suspects and belaying Ben on subculture it was time to make my mind up and pick whatever the hell it was that I wanted to do that day. Well I decided on Grooved Arete, unfortunately that decision came about a minute to late as Chris Sowden started off on the dog. Damn, I was going to finally try the Yorkshire Ripper then. My first dogging effort didn't go too well, I stuggled to find holds let alone sequences. The second, well that went a little better, and I worked out a decent sequence to just below the crux, I even did a few small but decent links. After that go I perked up a bit as it didn't seem as nails as I originally thought. The third dogging go went terribly. I set off from the ground hoping to race through the wet bit and soldier on up to my high point, I didn't however manage to clean the oozing slime from my boot and popped off not too long after leaving easy ground, again I dogged to the crux but I didn't have enough left in me to work out the next bit as by the time I realised that the line deviated right about a metre I was spent. Belayed Ben some more and right at the end he worked out two viable sequences one with the big flake one without (and more logical if you've got the necessary reach), i'm pretty sure it'll be on for him next time we're there. Fish supper!
Next time I visit Kilnsey i'm still not sure what i'll get on. Some of the moves on the route were really good but the holds are pretty grim and I can't see it being a quick tick, is it worth the effort its going to take? i'm really not sure.
Next week Nat is away in Glasgow for work so I have the little punto to go out climbing. I'm tempted to get back on Monsterosity at WCJ after reviewing my sequence for the top roof with Bonjoy...some trickery seems to have been missed/ignored and even though its hard its a hell of a lot closer to home.
Friday, 27 June 2008
Monday, 23 June 2008
Psych Spike
Well my psych spike seems to have been just that. The motivation has dipped for a full on return to climbing however I'm left looking forward to getting out with people on a regular basis without the feeling that I need to somehow apply my hard gotten training gains in some way shape or form.
Wednesday despite the rubbish forecast and damp predictions for WCJ Dobbin and I quested out. On arrival the Cornice looked in a poor state, dripping in places, running in others. Dob set off up Brachiaton Dance and pointed out that a lot of it was damp and the adjacent routes looked worse. I always worry at WCJ that a tight rope makes people slam into the rock in nasty ways so at the top slump I paid out plenty of rope, I think Dobbin enjoyed the air time and it set him in a braver mindset than usual.
It was then my turn. I remembered just how much I like this route as I cruised up it (quite pleased that I didn't feel tired in any way or struggle with any of the moves). We stripped it and moved over to Free Monster.
It was wet, too wet for Ben to even considering reminding himself of the moves. Disappointed we both sat, ate and discussed as I eyed up Rumble, I was keen to try and do it again but common sense won and we left to go to the works.
I wasn't best pleased to be there but after a bit of persuading I got involved with the training board, pushing myself to flash the new circuit thing there. I didn't do a great deal more of note as my pump just wouldn't subside and my baby soft skin wasn't reacting well to the purple holds that have been added on the easy circuit.
In the time between getting out I've still be relentlessly attending the gym where I continue to get stronger although a little slower. My bench press has improved markedly over the last few weeks with my 1RM now at 65Kg....I bumped into Andy Coish (sp?) and he promptly crushed that by saying he was currently trying for 130Kg but was stuck at 100...Monster.. I then proceeded to crush his notion of being strong by pointing him at an 18yr old who benched 2x190Kg @78kg recently.
Saturday came and despite having done a back workout the previous day I was once again persuaded to head out into the peak. I picked Dobbin up early and we set off for the Tor...in the rain. A good crowd was already there by the time we arrived and more familiar faces turned up later on. Maximum points to Vicky who set off for a run despite the blanket rain and also to Jo for the best Old Skool vest I've seen in a long time.
I got involved with Powerband, I've played before but never really put in any kind of concerted effort as I said I didn't like it. Truthfully it spanked me and plays to every weakness I have. This isn't the case any more and despite the polish and the less than inspiring setting I began to see why people spend so much time on these traversed: The moves are great. Anyway, I didn't bother trying to work any individual moves and started from beginning each time making it past the pillar but failing on the move after going down, 3 goes later I decided that this move needed a bit more attention, the low foot holds are well out of reach so it really is a bit of a hard move. In isolation I find away that basically revolves around my little finger being in instead of out (the way I HAVE to catch it). It then started to get a little bit busy at the right hand side so I decided to gauge my current level of strength on Ben's roof, for which I have the most inefficient sequence ever (not great when you're weak). My first go is better than a month or so ago. I fail on my stupid release from foot on the bar/pinch. Second go I blast past this and get my feet onto the sidewall but it feels like I might either slice my tip off or fire backwards at a high velocity. Instead I step off. The next go I get to the crux (for me) but place my foot badly and ignore it completely (why?), I flopped onto the mat half heatedly and decided to call it a day. No point in destroying myself.
Despite the fact nothing was ticked, I'm happy. I felt reasonably strong, I'd go as far to say damn strong considering I'm doing b*gger all climbing related. I'm not a total tor convert yet but I'd say after some consideration its starting...I think the moves on Stamina Band looks fantastic.
Work is going well, I'm plugging away slowly but it seems like progress is being Made. Two weeks today Nat and I will be at Silverstone to watch the Grand Prix, and a month after that it looks like we're off windsurfing for two weeks somewhere nice. I can't wait.
Wednesday despite the rubbish forecast and damp predictions for WCJ Dobbin and I quested out. On arrival the Cornice looked in a poor state, dripping in places, running in others. Dob set off up Brachiaton Dance and pointed out that a lot of it was damp and the adjacent routes looked worse. I always worry at WCJ that a tight rope makes people slam into the rock in nasty ways so at the top slump I paid out plenty of rope, I think Dobbin enjoyed the air time and it set him in a braver mindset than usual.
It was then my turn. I remembered just how much I like this route as I cruised up it (quite pleased that I didn't feel tired in any way or struggle with any of the moves). We stripped it and moved over to Free Monster.
It was wet, too wet for Ben to even considering reminding himself of the moves. Disappointed we both sat, ate and discussed as I eyed up Rumble, I was keen to try and do it again but common sense won and we left to go to the works.
I wasn't best pleased to be there but after a bit of persuading I got involved with the training board, pushing myself to flash the new circuit thing there. I didn't do a great deal more of note as my pump just wouldn't subside and my baby soft skin wasn't reacting well to the purple holds that have been added on the easy circuit.
In the time between getting out I've still be relentlessly attending the gym where I continue to get stronger although a little slower. My bench press has improved markedly over the last few weeks with my 1RM now at 65Kg....I bumped into Andy Coish (sp?) and he promptly crushed that by saying he was currently trying for 130Kg but was stuck at 100...Monster.. I then proceeded to crush his notion of being strong by pointing him at an 18yr old who benched 2x190Kg @78kg recently.
Saturday came and despite having done a back workout the previous day I was once again persuaded to head out into the peak. I picked Dobbin up early and we set off for the Tor...in the rain. A good crowd was already there by the time we arrived and more familiar faces turned up later on. Maximum points to Vicky who set off for a run despite the blanket rain and also to Jo for the best Old Skool vest I've seen in a long time.
I got involved with Powerband, I've played before but never really put in any kind of concerted effort as I said I didn't like it. Truthfully it spanked me and plays to every weakness I have. This isn't the case any more and despite the polish and the less than inspiring setting I began to see why people spend so much time on these traversed: The moves are great. Anyway, I didn't bother trying to work any individual moves and started from beginning each time making it past the pillar but failing on the move after going down, 3 goes later I decided that this move needed a bit more attention, the low foot holds are well out of reach so it really is a bit of a hard move. In isolation I find away that basically revolves around my little finger being in instead of out (the way I HAVE to catch it). It then started to get a little bit busy at the right hand side so I decided to gauge my current level of strength on Ben's roof, for which I have the most inefficient sequence ever (not great when you're weak). My first go is better than a month or so ago. I fail on my stupid release from foot on the bar/pinch. Second go I blast past this and get my feet onto the sidewall but it feels like I might either slice my tip off or fire backwards at a high velocity. Instead I step off. The next go I get to the crux (for me) but place my foot badly and ignore it completely (why?), I flopped onto the mat half heatedly and decided to call it a day. No point in destroying myself.
Despite the fact nothing was ticked, I'm happy. I felt reasonably strong, I'd go as far to say damn strong considering I'm doing b*gger all climbing related. I'm not a total tor convert yet but I'd say after some consideration its starting...I think the moves on Stamina Band looks fantastic.
Work is going well, I'm plugging away slowly but it seems like progress is being Made. Two weeks today Nat and I will be at Silverstone to watch the Grand Prix, and a month after that it looks like we're off windsurfing for two weeks somewhere nice. I can't wait.
Wednesday, 11 June 2008
Man Flu and Literature Review
Not a lot to report really, Sunday evening I developed a sore throat, Monday it was blocked Sinuses, Tues I felt like utter sh*t and today I'm feeling a little better than Monday. Obviously due to Dobbin's Man Flu today's climbing was called off. Its a shame as I've got to work like a dog until Friday in order to produce a literature review in under a week. Its strange that you have to do things in a prescribed order, my project is very involved with understanding the CFD, meshing etc. the literature stems from first principles and is therefore not as relevant as in other areas. It has to be done though so tomorrow will be a hellish day/night, I can't really see a lack of sleep doing anything but harm so the weekend will probably be ruined.
Saturday, 7 June 2008
Spider Walk
Nat was sick of being a desk jockey all week so we went for a wander around Cheedale on Friday night. I eyed up the spider again and have managed to extract this:
Yeah quality pitch easy for grade probably unless your short. Just a boulder problem through second roof. Well bolted apart from first bolt in a stupid place, i went up the trad crack on left till i could step across to second bolt. One pitch about 35 meters, but you can strip in stages. Its not pumpy at all just a few interesting bits between jugs. well worth the effort though.
I was also told that Gib (sp?) has been on it and found a way to invert and toe hook the break above the crux move thus missing it out. Definitely one to get on.
We then walked on to two tier were I pointed Subterfuge to Nat and suggested she tried it sometime in the future. She seemed to think it looked doable which is promising however I'll wait and see how she gets on before getting to smug. After reversing the collapsing stepping stones we walked along the river bed to Cheedale cornice where I was surprised to find nemesis not only wet but barely distinguishable due to a thick caked on layer of mud goo, I'm guessing its unlikely that will be worth re-bolting this year. The whole place was dripping and was generally uninspiring. As it was getting late and rain was forecast we got back onto the Monsal trail and marched back to the car, it hardly took any time and I'm now adamant that Wormhill walk in is a waste of time.
Porter Cottage in the evening for a little bit of a social and Lee recounting a ghastly story of a recent peg related incident on London Wall. I'd really like to get out next week but the work is stacking up and looking prohibitive.
Yeah quality pitch easy for grade probably unless your short. Just a boulder problem through second roof. Well bolted apart from first bolt in a stupid place, i went up the trad crack on left till i could step across to second bolt. One pitch about 35 meters, but you can strip in stages. Its not pumpy at all just a few interesting bits between jugs. well worth the effort though.
I was also told that Gib (sp?) has been on it and found a way to invert and toe hook the break above the crux move thus missing it out. Definitely one to get on.
We then walked on to two tier were I pointed Subterfuge to Nat and suggested she tried it sometime in the future. She seemed to think it looked doable which is promising however I'll wait and see how she gets on before getting to smug. After reversing the collapsing stepping stones we walked along the river bed to Cheedale cornice where I was surprised to find nemesis not only wet but barely distinguishable due to a thick caked on layer of mud goo, I'm guessing its unlikely that will be worth re-bolting this year. The whole place was dripping and was generally uninspiring. As it was getting late and rain was forecast we got back onto the Monsal trail and marched back to the car, it hardly took any time and I'm now adamant that Wormhill walk in is a waste of time.
Porter Cottage in the evening for a little bit of a social and Lee recounting a ghastly story of a recent peg related incident on London Wall. I'd really like to get out next week but the work is stacking up and looking prohibitive.
Friday, 6 June 2008
Entree
Firstly, why on earth was last night the first time I've walked in from that direction? Its much nicer than walking in from Wormhill and surely not that different in length even if you're heading for the Cornice.
During the walk in I caught a glimpse of Kristian's route the spider, both Dob and I paused. What a line! I've spent a while this afternoon emailing various people to try and extract knowledge and beta wherever possible.
Zippy on it, photo by Chris Craggs:
Dobbin Led the first warm up, supposedly a 6b+. I seconded and to be honest I was starting to regret coming out two days in a row, I was pumped and it showed. At half height I had to use a fair bit of effort to slap for a prominent jug, thankfully that allowed me to recover and I scuttled up to the top. When I got back to the floor I investigated further and found that we were actually on a 7a, not the best warm-up either. We followed this with the actual 6b+ which was really nice and a contender for something I think, (think being the operative word) that Nat might be able to get up on a top rope, thats if she can do the first move.
A bit of deliberation then went on but we decided that Entree was next on the hit list, a route that is famous due to Ben Moon surprising his belayer so much that a waist belay had to be used. Its a great section of rock with really obvious nice looking small holds. The sequence seems straightforward and I believe it is, I'm just not strong enough right now. Progress was good with two moves evading us. We both gave it three good goes the last of which I was feeling really good but a combination of fatigue heat and sore skin led to a half hearted wave at the sharp little crimp/gaston. Oh well, one more to save for another day.
We then moved onto a 7a+ I can't recall the name, much faffing was had until we worked out that we were both pretty fried. The return walk/journey had some interesting/worrying/thought invoking banter until Dobbin declared his blood sugar to be so low he felt ill.
This morning I realised just how tired I really am, my shoulders are sore, my skin is thin and my forearms have a dull ache that just won't go away. I said to Nat that I'd take her out to Cheedale sometime for a wander, possibly tonight depending on her ETA but the weather looks threatening and the Red Deer looks like a more realistic choice of venue.
During the walk in I caught a glimpse of Kristian's route the spider, both Dob and I paused. What a line! I've spent a while this afternoon emailing various people to try and extract knowledge and beta wherever possible.
Zippy on it, photo by Chris Craggs:
Dobbin Led the first warm up, supposedly a 6b+. I seconded and to be honest I was starting to regret coming out two days in a row, I was pumped and it showed. At half height I had to use a fair bit of effort to slap for a prominent jug, thankfully that allowed me to recover and I scuttled up to the top. When I got back to the floor I investigated further and found that we were actually on a 7a, not the best warm-up either. We followed this with the actual 6b+ which was really nice and a contender for something I think, (think being the operative word) that Nat might be able to get up on a top rope, thats if she can do the first move.
A bit of deliberation then went on but we decided that Entree was next on the hit list, a route that is famous due to Ben Moon surprising his belayer so much that a waist belay had to be used. Its a great section of rock with really obvious nice looking small holds. The sequence seems straightforward and I believe it is, I'm just not strong enough right now. Progress was good with two moves evading us. We both gave it three good goes the last of which I was feeling really good but a combination of fatigue heat and sore skin led to a half hearted wave at the sharp little crimp/gaston. Oh well, one more to save for another day.
We then moved onto a 7a+ I can't recall the name, much faffing was had until we worked out that we were both pretty fried. The return walk/journey had some interesting/worrying/thought invoking banter until Dobbin declared his blood sugar to be so low he felt ill.
This morning I realised just how tired I really am, my shoulders are sore, my skin is thin and my forearms have a dull ache that just won't go away. I said to Nat that I'd take her out to Cheedale sometime for a wander, possibly tonight depending on her ETA but the weather looks threatening and the Red Deer looks like a more realistic choice of venue.
Thursday, 5 June 2008
I think what you need most after your prolonged and repeated injury layoffs is to get out and do some climbing. Get some rock miles in, re-acquaint yourself with real climbing, do some good climbs and enjoy the summer.
Don’t bother getting a membership to either wall until autumn. Go to Dan or Nige’s board if you feel the need, or just pay full price for occasional visits to walls.
Taking the long view, you have loads of time to get strong, but it’s realistically too late to be your absolute best this summer. Have a good summer and then knuckle down to training in Autumn/Winter. You have half of summer left, get out and about, go places you haven’t been, get on the hard routes you aspire to (if only to see how strong you need to get), do some onsighting. Don’t waste your time endlessly going on routes you have done already, you will only feel depressed when they feel harder then you remember/ think they should feel.
In my experience, if you get out on the crags you will quickly develop realistic and inspiring goals for what you can do within a season. Don’t get hung up if this isn’t breaking new ground, you’ve just been broken and re-built for god sake! Pick an inspiring destination for the end of summer, but with a wide range of objectives so you will have something to go at regardless of how strong you end up. Preferably somewhere new which will feel fresh and where you won’t end up falling into the trap of trying things you have already been on (which may end in frustrated disappointment).
The last thing you want to do is go in too hard too soon and end up injured yet again without even a brief window of pleasurable climbing.
Don’t forget, being psyched and having fun does wonders for your climbing, ask Dobbin!"
Good comment Bonjoy, basically that's what I've worked out since my last post. Earlier in the week I was unsure as to whether visiting Kilnsey on Wednesday (yesterday) would be a good idea or not, mainly due to the forecasted temperature. However Tuesday was spent in what can only be described as some kind of mind meld with three people much brighter than me discussing every little detail of my PhD so far. I was fried so Kilnsey, hot or not seemed like a great idea. Met dobbin off the train and then we set off around the back roads at high speed, great roads it has to be said. I won't bore you with details but the banter was good, the climbing was better and the chip butty rounded it all of nicely. My stamina had improved notably which was marked by success rather than failure and next time I go I'm going to get on something that I've wanted to do for years; Yorkshire ripper or maybe reacquaint myself with full tilt in order to have a long term goal of True North, its all down in writing now so that's the way its going to be. Off to two tier with Dobbin shortly for what will hopefully be another great climbing afternoon. Anyone in need of a belay in the coming weeks let me know because as of yesterday I just want to get out more.
Another conclusion yesterday was that Foley should really stop fighting it and come out and do some routes.
Don’t bother getting a membership to either wall until autumn. Go to Dan or Nige’s board if you feel the need, or just pay full price for occasional visits to walls.
Taking the long view, you have loads of time to get strong, but it’s realistically too late to be your absolute best this summer. Have a good summer and then knuckle down to training in Autumn/Winter. You have half of summer left, get out and about, go places you haven’t been, get on the hard routes you aspire to (if only to see how strong you need to get), do some onsighting. Don’t waste your time endlessly going on routes you have done already, you will only feel depressed when they feel harder then you remember/ think they should feel.
In my experience, if you get out on the crags you will quickly develop realistic and inspiring goals for what you can do within a season. Don’t get hung up if this isn’t breaking new ground, you’ve just been broken and re-built for god sake! Pick an inspiring destination for the end of summer, but with a wide range of objectives so you will have something to go at regardless of how strong you end up. Preferably somewhere new which will feel fresh and where you won’t end up falling into the trap of trying things you have already been on (which may end in frustrated disappointment).
The last thing you want to do is go in too hard too soon and end up injured yet again without even a brief window of pleasurable climbing.
Don’t forget, being psyched and having fun does wonders for your climbing, ask Dobbin!"
Good comment Bonjoy, basically that's what I've worked out since my last post. Earlier in the week I was unsure as to whether visiting Kilnsey on Wednesday (yesterday) would be a good idea or not, mainly due to the forecasted temperature. However Tuesday was spent in what can only be described as some kind of mind meld with three people much brighter than me discussing every little detail of my PhD so far. I was fried so Kilnsey, hot or not seemed like a great idea. Met dobbin off the train and then we set off around the back roads at high speed, great roads it has to be said. I won't bore you with details but the banter was good, the climbing was better and the chip butty rounded it all of nicely. My stamina had improved notably which was marked by success rather than failure and next time I go I'm going to get on something that I've wanted to do for years; Yorkshire ripper or maybe reacquaint myself with full tilt in order to have a long term goal of True North, its all down in writing now so that's the way its going to be. Off to two tier with Dobbin shortly for what will hopefully be another great climbing afternoon. Anyone in need of a belay in the coming weeks let me know because as of yesterday I just want to get out more.
Another conclusion yesterday was that Foley should really stop fighting it and come out and do some routes.
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