I didn't bother with the comp on Friday night as the forecast (Metcheck) looked favourable for Sat. When I awoke I checked my phone and peered out of the window. The road was soaked, the sky grey and it was raining. I had a few messages saying conditions were sh*t in various places. Darn. Nat and I filled the day doing other things until the evening. Once again I ended up at the works.
I'm not impressed at the new set of comp problems (what a surprise I hear you all say). The holds are mostly HUGE and juggy. Needless to say I didn't enjoy my session despite the soothing tones of Nic Clement shouting out 5 sec intervals for the British Team.
There's no longevity in this set of problems. The majority of them are flashable, there's one hard green problem and two volume centric ones, Percy's special (I'll never do) and P14 which should go next session. I didn't do these three. The green was going well but I couldn't get my heel to move from the starting position to the next hold higher, pulling on in this position, the rest isn't uber-hard, tricky enough though.
Where the training board has made some large improvements the comp wall seems to have taken a big leap backwards maybe this will be rectified with the filler problems going up tomorrow. I'm hoping I'll get to a few of the boards this week and if not I'll be heading towards the foundry. Its a ball ache that Nat and I will be going to different places but I'm sick of not enjoying my evenings.
Saturday night - protect the human and far too much to drink. Andy K scores points for player of the evening coming out with some classic lines.
Sunday morning - asleep
Sunday afternoon - Nat and I took Dom (young kid from the works) out to Burbage South, we did a bit of a tour of the boulders before doing the same on the edge. The problems later in the day were a bit tricky for the other two but nonetheless I think they had a great time. I did too, ticking a lot of problems I've never really tried before, most of which were surprisingly good. School boy error of the day was leaving my head torch in the car and staying 15 minutes too long. This led to very muddy legs after flailing in the dark.
The evening was capped off with a bottle of mulled wine. Tues is my transfer interview *GULP*...
4 comments:
For the green problem feet, here is what I did : start with rf only, as soon as first hand move done then left heel on, left hand move, then right toe behind heel, left heel up to higher heel, release toe and then right hand to pinchy edge thing. Now fall off trying to get your right foot to foot hold out right.
thanks, thats what I was trying, the last few times I've warmed up i've had discomfort behind both my knees and the heeliness wasn't helping.
you cunts! move to manchester and then realise what fucking climbing wall deprivation is.
I miss the foundry, the school dare i say the works, jesus the fact the matrix was 4minutes from my house and had a sauna is beeter than manc.... whinge whinge moan moan.
The works is a fucking joke
I don't want to die swinging between jugs on dodgy scaffold!
Sorry I forgot..........it's the best biggest wall in the world that is perfect and so we will do what we like after all of your feedback.
Long live the Foundry!
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