Climbing wise? as well you know the weather has been utter sh*t. Last Friday (Halloween), dressed as the hulk, I went up to the plantation for the UKC/UKB bouldering meet with Nat. TBH the evening wasn't that great at first, I quickly realised my error; the majority of people weren't actually there to climb.
One tall man did laps on Deliverance getting a massive ego boost from the woo'd crowds. I rapidly became bored of this, each repeat made me want to shout abuse at him more and more. There were no lamps as such and therefore the light was poor, as everyone was focussing their headlamps on Deliverance I used it to warm up, naturally failing on the last move (but not being far short really for a first go).
After that I braved the darkness and headed up to the ace. 5 mins later I declared it impossible and played on the green traverse (probably warming up fully by now). A minute or so later I was shocked by the arrival of Ryan Pasquill and Katy W. They were shocked at the amount of people present and Ryan was set on the Ace. He talked me into giving it a go, I muttered 9a at him but promised to come over and use my green hulk of a figure to spot him.
First go Ryan hit the top with his left, foot still on and just didn't bother trying to match. I got excited (he didn't). The small crowd of three spotters all agreed that if he actually tried to match he'd cruise it and that's exactly what he did next go. LH bang to the top, what seemed like an age of body tension and then a quick match. We all screamed (he didn't) but did return shortly afterwards with a big grin. I booted up and Ryan talked me through the start beta using the heel, including all of the little intricacies. First go it felt shit but a little more coaching and I was happily camped on the first crimp, holding it easily and crimping hard. I dragged my toe into the right spot and lent out to the second crimp, falling off. Now, I had a BIG smile on my face, the ACE, the f*cking ACE is doable.
Ryan and Katy left for a romantic curry for two. Nat and I remained camped out as I kept getting back out to the right hand crimp, I never got to actually slap the top but to be getting (nearly perfectly) set up made my night. After that, goes got worse and worse and I got a bit downhearted, it turned out later than my tip was pouring blood I just couldn't see it.
Now here is something contentions (a blog post here wouldn't seem right without it?); the ace doesn't seem that hard. I'm not saying its not 8b, but I'd always regarded it as the hardest of the peak 8b's, I'm not so sure any more.
The small list of ascentionists is however a testament to its difficulty.
Jerry - old beta
Ben - old beta
Malc- old beta
Tyler - old beta
Earl? - old beta
Mick- old beta
Scott M - New beta (given by Ryan)
Ryan P - New beta (CONGRATS!)
However, I do believe (for me at least) that the new beta makes it lower in the grade bracket, the traditional way of starting with just your foot below is the living end!
The rest of the weekend was a let down as I had no skin and then the weather was poo on Sunday. The week flew by and again the weather was poo on Wednesday. This weekend? rubbish. Yesterday was spent at trackside in damp conditions and realistically this was one session where the wall would have been a million times better for me.
Today, supposedly the tor was in fine nick, I didn't bother calling around after the night of rain and went to the sanctity of Dylan's board instead. This place is seriously growing on me despite handing out a spanking each time I visit. The scene was good today, Stu L, Ru, Gary, 320d Saltus, Ed R, Dylan and a few ladies. I came up with some great problems which other people finished off on my behalf. Ru as ever looked strong, poor Stu as ever was nursing healing injuries (or so I think).
Where the school was very flicky between pinches Dylan's place seems to be all about the shoulders. Sean Myles eat your heart out.
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