Wednesday 15 October 2008

More drivel

I think the last thing I wrote about was the strength test? The friday after I sent Dave M a message to find out that he was heading out for a night session on The Ace. I didn't feel strong enough to try it but trying to avoid falling into my usual routine of being a little negative and always going for a training session unless everything, including alignment of the stars was perfect. So at 8 I met up at Ned's house of power and loaded up the cars with as many pads and lights as possible. It was good to see Tom Newman who was staying for the weekend. I started climbing with Tom years ago and it's really cool to see how strong and psyched he still is, despite shunning Sheffield Uni a year or so ago.
Things weren't looking good on the way out, the car read 18'c then 15 and finally 13 by the time we parked up. A quick romp up to Brad Pit saw new lapping it, Ben Thompson cruising it and the rest of us not really doing a lot. It was still warm.
Next up was the green trav for a bit of a warm up, no one else bothered and carried straight on to the Ace/Joker. Ben put in an impressive attempt despite the rubbish conditions on the joker while the rest of us floundered around on the Ace not really getting anywhere, I felt a residual tiredness from the earlier fun of the week and couldn't lock in deep enough to do the first move, this was a little disappointing at the time but in retrospect that last week was a harsh re-introduction. Next was deliverance, I was anxious about my inadequate footwork but it was ill-founded. I happily wandered along to the flake before barn dooring off due to indecisiveness. Climbing works Ryan dispatched while the rest of us packed up and headed home. Felt too tired to do much over the weekend.
Since then I climbed on Dylans board on Mon, it took a while to get used to and somehow doesn't feel anywhere near as hard as the school but it is GOOD.
Yesterday I went to the works. It was good to see a whole host of people down. However, the youthier youth of today are dismayingly strong. This includes Sasscotty who has come from zero to hero within the year I've known him. Ryan casually introduced me to his wiry friend, after a moment of stupidity I realise that it's actually uber wad Dave Graham. I spent the rest of the night being quietly impressed by his climbing style and general personality. At the end of the night I forced myself to go and hang open handed on some rungs. Front 3 and back 3 repeaters, plus 2 one handed hangs of the moon 2 finger pocket. Keith is right, rungs are so much harder than finger boards.
Nats away tonight and instead of questing out today and making the most of it I'm going to catch up on a load of work. Tomorrow I'm going to see Onsight, I hope in this film the climbing is the main focus rather than the fancy camera work of his Dave Birkett film.

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