It seems a while since I blogged, so here goes.
Last Wednesday I went out with Dobbin and Dylan as you might already know. Right from the start with warm conditions, bad planning and hurty skin I should have known that getting on HFC was a waste of time. I mean, last time I was there, I said to myself "Don't go back on it unless its cold, its all you need". I ignored this and my 1st go despite being good was stopped short by getting a gigantic cobweb/leaf/mess stuck to my shoe at the crucial point. I'm glad I didn't get further mind as some choad had obviously found the climbing far too easy and attempted to fill in all of the holds with chalk, I can see no other reason for the amount used. He/She had also tick marked the break, the break FFS, how can you miss something that big?
My second go was worse, I was in a bad mood by then and was regretting not doing something else with my day, a session on Zeke or an onsight shot at too old to be bold. I don't know if it was hampered by bad light but everything I caught, I caught wrong, this carried on to the break with me fighting through every move. Frustrated at this point I just pulled hard and therefore wasn't too surprised when my foot popped. Damn Damn Damn. Lesson learned.
Nat disappeared that night for a 5 day conference in Boulder, Colorado. How crazy is that? Next time (if she's selected again I vow to take full advantage).
As she was gone, all work, tidying up etc. went out of the window and I spent far too much time hanging around with a good friend of mine, who most of you know but probably can't name. Here forth he shall be known as Wildcountry (WC) James. He was very excited after spending a session earlier that week on Renegade Master. He'd abbed down the line, brushing, chalking and feeling all of the holds as well as inspecting the gear before having a stab above some pads.
We arranged to climb Sunday but as Sat morning progressed neither day looked favourable for the grit. Usually at this point i'd sack it and head to the wall for some guaranteed conditions, but this is the new me and that's just not cricket. A few phone calls later James agreed to head out with me. He wasn't psyched. It was raining as we arrived and so no warmup was possible. James set away at the start and was instantly on his back after violently slipping off the easy traverse in. Shit. My first go, my onsight attempt, was cut short but non stretchy hamstrings. I cursed my lack of stretchiness and spent the next 5 minutes contorting myself as much as possible. Round 2 showed just how quickly stretching works as my heel was up easily, locked into position I reached out for the good hold but I didn't seem to have it in me. Hmmmm, on paper this route should be my thing but its plainly obvious that I just lack feel for grit, its coming but I do perform sub par. During the two days I did notice subtleties in my climbing improve ,foot placements, sagging a lot of small factors that combined to allow me to make the moves easier and smoother thab before. As the day progressed the weather worsened but our attempts improved. James always one step ahead. I made it out to the lip and onto the next couple of holds but couldn't keep my feet on and had to campus the next move, this sets you up all wrong for the next move and bang, i'm off. We call it a day as the light worsens both relatively happy at our high points.
Sunday was much the same weather wise but the rain throughout the night had turned the path into a stream. The pads were floating which made for some interesting falls. James abbed off cleaning everything (unnecessarily IMO) and placed the gear. Ironically he was forced to use one of my bits of kit, a small DMM peenut instead of his shiny new wildcountry getup. He tested it with bodyweight and seemed pleased. I muttered that it would lift out as he topped out, sure enough as he dogged past it, it fell out.
From now on the two different styles of ascent were set.
WC James - abbed, cleaned, pre-placed gear
Me - plenty of beta, ground up, purposefully ignoring James' gear (as it wasn't placed ground up).
The goes went well with my first being better than the previous day. I blasted past my high point and made the next move before falling wildly. The goes carried on again until darkness with little upwards progression, consolidation was however there. I believe that we both have one more hard move to make before the top out business begins. Ned has rocked over onto the slab and left it at that. Variable, being a hero has topped it out although more directly up the slab. I believe (WARNING CONTENTIOUS STATEMENT) that Rich is the only person to have repeated it in the same way as JM taking the crack direct?
I'm not sure what I'll do when I get there, I'm NOT clipping pre-placed gear and I would love to finish it off in a truly great style however fear of another frame might hold me back. We'll just have to see.
I'm fairly happy with the way i'm approaching my climbing at the moment, I'm rarely down the wall and I'm doing things that I enjoy, ok, i'm not as strong as I once was but then again expectations aren't as high.
I had intended to try some routes in this style just as I hurt myself, Shine on and EOTA being the main targets so its good to feel that I'm back on target.
Tonight I met the travelling Americans who are "Crushing", they're very enthusiastic and talented but I have to say that this pre-placing malarkey is very confusing to me, how can you ground up something if the gear wasn't placed ground up, maybe I've just got the wrong end of the stick, its highly likely...I guess the main important thing is being honest about the way in which you've climbed a route.
The other thing I've noticed is that where they seem to be good climbers I've seen a number of British talents that I'm sure outshine them completely. My mind wanders as to what they might achieve given the same kind of support? (That I'm supposing rightly or wrongly that these guys have).
This week won't be too good for climbing, I'm behind with my work, Friday night I'm hoping to get out and possibly Sunday but it all depends on how things go.
Oh I forgot to say we took a video camera for RM, the footage isn't great and being idiots/lazy we missed quite a bit of stuff. We have however got a couple of nice links on cam. I'll pick a good one and post it up at some point. Its not high def.
It started out as some kind of rehab diary then ended up in a load of piffling nonsense... now it's back to it's ROOTS! (...with a bit of Trad thrown in for the hell of it)
Thursday, 30 October 2008
Monday, 20 October 2008
What a weekend
It will probably be obvious to you, if you regularly read this blog, that a fortnight or so ago when I started climbing again I realised that there were certain issues within my climbing that I needed to address, the most important (despite not being emphasised enough) is that I DON'T spend enough time actually climbing.
Due to this and with the words of Sensai bonjoy running through my mind I started hatching a plan for this weekend gone.
Friday night up to visit my folks after picking Nat up from work, free meal. Sat carry on up to Bowden, put Nat on the problems that I think she should be trying before returning to my folks, free meal.
Leave on Sun morning stopping off via Yorkshire, free packed lunch. The weather looked fair enough for this plan to actually work and it wasn't long before I was running out of the flat, forgetting almost everything on the way to pick up Nat from work.
It was great to see my folks on Friday night and much merriment was had before I hit the sack with sweating tips. The drive up to Bowden took less time than I remembered and some of the speed cameras have been taken away and others now have flashing signs in front of them. Great. We arrived at a windswept Bowden early ish and only a handful of cars were parked off the road. This we later found out must be due to the insane wind gusting all over the place. Durham university club were the only people to be found on the crag, it was I'm afraid to say, a fresher's meet. However, the club were conducting themselves perfectly.
We warmed up at the far end after which I pointed Nat at Childs play. She got to the crux looking absolutely terrified before being blown off and completely overshooting the mat. I poo-pah'd her claims of a force 9 death wind and quested off, after all it's not longer as hard as it used to be, Childs play in fact. Minutes later I understood what she meant. In between gusts I balanced my way up to the top, declaring it to be E9 (or should that be 6b+ x?). Nat got stuck into another problem and I continued to warm up. All the cave routes went down as per usual, followed by a favourite eliminate of mine. After this I had a dabble on sprung but felt cold. Staggered, captain haddock, poverty and the other things in this area were next. The wind had died down a lot by this time so I urged Nat to try CP again. 5 or so goes later she was past the crux looking terrified and resorting to beginner beaching tactics at the top, I managed to coax her out of this line of attack and once she re-committed to some technique she cruised on over the top. She was psyched out of her mind (as was I) as this is her first 6b. It was fantastic to see her climbing like this after so little time and bodes well for her Christmas ambitions.
Next I went on something out of my comfort zone, lippy bastard, but unfortunately I kept getting hit by gusts at bad moments so I left it. The crack was suffering from similar conditions. A harsh 2 min downpour then struck leaving us all huddled beneath the cave routes for the next 15 mins or so. When it passed I went for Vienna, an eternally changing problem, and then back on Sprung. I felt like a bit of a twat running around as there were a number of onlookers but so be it. My earlier guess at not being warmed up was confirmed as I climbed it straight away, comfortably in fact.
The day was going well and after flicking through the new (appalling) guide, I'd singled out another line, The Growlers, crimpy, vertical, 8a wall. I stepped up, and after a few hard rock over moves on dirty dirty little holds I was eyeing up a larger, decent crimpy hold. I gave it my all, my fingers crept over the edge of the hold, the razor like crimp bit in deep across my tips and I was suddenly aware of very sore skin. Back on the pad I was gutted and extremely sore. A few more goes ended only in backward progress as the smallest hold turned progressively warmer. Saving skin for the next day we packed up and headed to 'the woods'. I really wanted Nat to try Bad Company (now given 6a), a fantastic problem in an even better setting. On arrival conditions were amazing, old timer locals (Bob Smith?) confirmed this. I re-warmed up on Jocks and then Monty Pythons and then demo'd the problem for Nat. I hadn't realised it but her tips were worse than mine and after a few goes we both decided that if we were to climb on Sunday we needed to stop.
Back home, and once again plenty of food and loads of wine.
On Sunday weather reports (courtesy of Stubbs from UKB) showed Caley to be in poor nick. Instead we opted for the ever gusty cliff. On arrival we met Joe Brown who informed us that the good doctor would be arriving shortly. Warming up was hard and sore and I inwardly kicked myself for being a bit silly the previous day. Joe pointed me at underhand which I'd never heard of. It took a while but I worked out quite a neat sequence. Fatigue or a lack of length meant it didn't resemble Foleys sequence one bit however it was efficient. Further floundering later I decided to change out of my floppy Velcro's and into dragons. One minute later it was done. I worked the extension but didn't feel it was worth risking the skin as I want to climb sometime this week. Nat proceeded to crush the left hand roof problem which again, is a good effort for her.
I took my boots off and packed everything away, for a split second Martin(bringing purple back in style, holy sh*t kind of strong) Smith tempted me towards Stu's roof. It didn't take long for the small crimps to persuade me to take them back off.
We stopped off via Headingly to see her brother and chuck down a gallon of warming tea.
A text from Foley later on in the day informs me that he fell floundering around with the end slots of underhand. Next time beast.
Now I fully understand that this weekend hasn't pushed me out of my comfort zone as far as possible (wait to see what I've got planned next weekend!) and as ever comments are welcome (yes you as well Bonjoy, I promise I won't get upset). However, I did spend both days outside, and this resulted in new ticks which can only be a good thing., non?
For the first time in ages I felt like I was climbing well this weekend...It's a great feeling.
Currently on UKB there is the start of another debacle albeit at a lesser scale (although thinking about it probably not). The fact that my name has now been mentioned directly (not in a malicious manner thankfully) leads me to feel that I have to at least offer some kind of stance as a reply. I'm not quite sure how to go about this and really I should be doing more productive things. I'll give it some thought and no doubt produce another controversial blog post at some point, or maybe I'll decide it's not worth it. At best, I've managed to stay away from my keyboard and avoid some rather obvious baiting.
Due to this and with the words of Sensai bonjoy running through my mind I started hatching a plan for this weekend gone.
Friday night up to visit my folks after picking Nat up from work, free meal. Sat carry on up to Bowden, put Nat on the problems that I think she should be trying before returning to my folks, free meal.
Leave on Sun morning stopping off via Yorkshire, free packed lunch. The weather looked fair enough for this plan to actually work and it wasn't long before I was running out of the flat, forgetting almost everything on the way to pick up Nat from work.
It was great to see my folks on Friday night and much merriment was had before I hit the sack with sweating tips. The drive up to Bowden took less time than I remembered and some of the speed cameras have been taken away and others now have flashing signs in front of them. Great. We arrived at a windswept Bowden early ish and only a handful of cars were parked off the road. This we later found out must be due to the insane wind gusting all over the place. Durham university club were the only people to be found on the crag, it was I'm afraid to say, a fresher's meet. However, the club were conducting themselves perfectly.
We warmed up at the far end after which I pointed Nat at Childs play. She got to the crux looking absolutely terrified before being blown off and completely overshooting the mat. I poo-pah'd her claims of a force 9 death wind and quested off, after all it's not longer as hard as it used to be, Childs play in fact. Minutes later I understood what she meant. In between gusts I balanced my way up to the top, declaring it to be E9 (or should that be 6b+ x?). Nat got stuck into another problem and I continued to warm up. All the cave routes went down as per usual, followed by a favourite eliminate of mine. After this I had a dabble on sprung but felt cold. Staggered, captain haddock, poverty and the other things in this area were next. The wind had died down a lot by this time so I urged Nat to try CP again. 5 or so goes later she was past the crux looking terrified and resorting to beginner beaching tactics at the top, I managed to coax her out of this line of attack and once she re-committed to some technique she cruised on over the top. She was psyched out of her mind (as was I) as this is her first 6b. It was fantastic to see her climbing like this after so little time and bodes well for her Christmas ambitions.
Next I went on something out of my comfort zone, lippy bastard, but unfortunately I kept getting hit by gusts at bad moments so I left it. The crack was suffering from similar conditions. A harsh 2 min downpour then struck leaving us all huddled beneath the cave routes for the next 15 mins or so. When it passed I went for Vienna, an eternally changing problem, and then back on Sprung. I felt like a bit of a twat running around as there were a number of onlookers but so be it. My earlier guess at not being warmed up was confirmed as I climbed it straight away, comfortably in fact.
The day was going well and after flicking through the new (appalling) guide, I'd singled out another line, The Growlers, crimpy, vertical, 8a wall. I stepped up, and after a few hard rock over moves on dirty dirty little holds I was eyeing up a larger, decent crimpy hold. I gave it my all, my fingers crept over the edge of the hold, the razor like crimp bit in deep across my tips and I was suddenly aware of very sore skin. Back on the pad I was gutted and extremely sore. A few more goes ended only in backward progress as the smallest hold turned progressively warmer. Saving skin for the next day we packed up and headed to 'the woods'. I really wanted Nat to try Bad Company (now given 6a), a fantastic problem in an even better setting. On arrival conditions were amazing, old timer locals (Bob Smith?) confirmed this. I re-warmed up on Jocks and then Monty Pythons and then demo'd the problem for Nat. I hadn't realised it but her tips were worse than mine and after a few goes we both decided that if we were to climb on Sunday we needed to stop.
Back home, and once again plenty of food and loads of wine.
On Sunday weather reports (courtesy of Stubbs from UKB) showed Caley to be in poor nick. Instead we opted for the ever gusty cliff. On arrival we met Joe Brown who informed us that the good doctor would be arriving shortly. Warming up was hard and sore and I inwardly kicked myself for being a bit silly the previous day. Joe pointed me at underhand which I'd never heard of. It took a while but I worked out quite a neat sequence. Fatigue or a lack of length meant it didn't resemble Foleys sequence one bit however it was efficient. Further floundering later I decided to change out of my floppy Velcro's and into dragons. One minute later it was done. I worked the extension but didn't feel it was worth risking the skin as I want to climb sometime this week. Nat proceeded to crush the left hand roof problem which again, is a good effort for her.
I took my boots off and packed everything away, for a split second Martin(bringing purple back in style, holy sh*t kind of strong) Smith tempted me towards Stu's roof. It didn't take long for the small crimps to persuade me to take them back off.
We stopped off via Headingly to see her brother and chuck down a gallon of warming tea.
A text from Foley later on in the day informs me that he fell floundering around with the end slots of underhand. Next time beast.
Now I fully understand that this weekend hasn't pushed me out of my comfort zone as far as possible (wait to see what I've got planned next weekend!) and as ever comments are welcome (yes you as well Bonjoy, I promise I won't get upset). However, I did spend both days outside, and this resulted in new ticks which can only be a good thing., non?
For the first time in ages I felt like I was climbing well this weekend...It's a great feeling.
Currently on UKB there is the start of another debacle albeit at a lesser scale (although thinking about it probably not). The fact that my name has now been mentioned directly (not in a malicious manner thankfully) leads me to feel that I have to at least offer some kind of stance as a reply. I'm not quite sure how to go about this and really I should be doing more productive things. I'll give it some thought and no doubt produce another controversial blog post at some point, or maybe I'll decide it's not worth it. At best, I've managed to stay away from my keyboard and avoid some rather obvious baiting.
Wednesday, 15 October 2008
More drivel
I think the last thing I wrote about was the strength test? The friday after I sent Dave M a message to find out that he was heading out for a night session on The Ace. I didn't feel strong enough to try it but trying to avoid falling into my usual routine of being a little negative and always going for a training session unless everything, including alignment of the stars was perfect. So at 8 I met up at Ned's house of power and loaded up the cars with as many pads and lights as possible. It was good to see Tom Newman who was staying for the weekend. I started climbing with Tom years ago and it's really cool to see how strong and psyched he still is, despite shunning Sheffield Uni a year or so ago.
Things weren't looking good on the way out, the car read 18'c then 15 and finally 13 by the time we parked up. A quick romp up to Brad Pit saw new lapping it, Ben Thompson cruising it and the rest of us not really doing a lot. It was still warm.
Next up was the green trav for a bit of a warm up, no one else bothered and carried straight on to the Ace/Joker. Ben put in an impressive attempt despite the rubbish conditions on the joker while the rest of us floundered around on the Ace not really getting anywhere, I felt a residual tiredness from the earlier fun of the week and couldn't lock in deep enough to do the first move, this was a little disappointing at the time but in retrospect that last week was a harsh re-introduction. Next was deliverance, I was anxious about my inadequate footwork but it was ill-founded. I happily wandered along to the flake before barn dooring off due to indecisiveness. Climbing works Ryan dispatched while the rest of us packed up and headed home. Felt too tired to do much over the weekend.
Since then I climbed on Dylans board on Mon, it took a while to get used to and somehow doesn't feel anywhere near as hard as the school but it is GOOD.
Yesterday I went to the works. It was good to see a whole host of people down. However, the youthier youth of today are dismayingly strong. This includes Sasscotty who has come from zero to hero within the year I've known him. Ryan casually introduced me to his wiry friend, after a moment of stupidity I realise that it's actually uber wad Dave Graham. I spent the rest of the night being quietly impressed by his climbing style and general personality. At the end of the night I forced myself to go and hang open handed on some rungs. Front 3 and back 3 repeaters, plus 2 one handed hangs of the moon 2 finger pocket. Keith is right, rungs are so much harder than finger boards.
Nats away tonight and instead of questing out today and making the most of it I'm going to catch up on a load of work. Tomorrow I'm going to see Onsight, I hope in this film the climbing is the main focus rather than the fancy camera work of his Dave Birkett film.
Things weren't looking good on the way out, the car read 18'c then 15 and finally 13 by the time we parked up. A quick romp up to Brad Pit saw new lapping it, Ben Thompson cruising it and the rest of us not really doing a lot. It was still warm.
Next up was the green trav for a bit of a warm up, no one else bothered and carried straight on to the Ace/Joker. Ben put in an impressive attempt despite the rubbish conditions on the joker while the rest of us floundered around on the Ace not really getting anywhere, I felt a residual tiredness from the earlier fun of the week and couldn't lock in deep enough to do the first move, this was a little disappointing at the time but in retrospect that last week was a harsh re-introduction. Next was deliverance, I was anxious about my inadequate footwork but it was ill-founded. I happily wandered along to the flake before barn dooring off due to indecisiveness. Climbing works Ryan dispatched while the rest of us packed up and headed home. Felt too tired to do much over the weekend.
Since then I climbed on Dylans board on Mon, it took a while to get used to and somehow doesn't feel anywhere near as hard as the school but it is GOOD.
Yesterday I went to the works. It was good to see a whole host of people down. However, the youthier youth of today are dismayingly strong. This includes Sasscotty who has come from zero to hero within the year I've known him. Ryan casually introduced me to his wiry friend, after a moment of stupidity I realise that it's actually uber wad Dave Graham. I spent the rest of the night being quietly impressed by his climbing style and general personality. At the end of the night I forced myself to go and hang open handed on some rungs. Front 3 and back 3 repeaters, plus 2 one handed hangs of the moon 2 finger pocket. Keith is right, rungs are so much harder than finger boards.
Nats away tonight and instead of questing out today and making the most of it I'm going to catch up on a load of work. Tomorrow I'm going to see Onsight, I hope in this film the climbing is the main focus rather than the fancy camera work of his Dave Birkett film.
Thursday, 9 October 2008
....more on streng!
Further musings on the test (below) have left me feeling like it wasn't ideal and therefore not wholly representative. In an ideal situation each item would be tested separately therefore without any impact from the previous test however this was not possible and above anything would be dreadfully boring.
It was raised to my attention that the max number of pull ups was a bit low and I know in my head that the minute I began them I could feel the pump from the previous set on the campus rung. Not enough rest.
The fact that my one armers on a rung and a bar are quite different (if I'd rested longer the same would probably be apparent in the normal pulls) again go on to highlight the weakness of my fingers (when to crimped), as doing these exercises I made sure to NOT crimp the rung but to hold it half/open ish.
However, despite not being perfect the test HAS worked. Now I need to not fall victim of the usual syndrome of talking an awful lot about training, buying stuff and then not actually addressing our weaknesses.
It was raised to my attention that the max number of pull ups was a bit low and I know in my head that the minute I began them I could feel the pump from the previous set on the campus rung. Not enough rest.
The fact that my one armers on a rung and a bar are quite different (if I'd rested longer the same would probably be apparent in the normal pulls) again go on to highlight the weakness of my fingers (when to crimped), as doing these exercises I made sure to NOT crimp the rung but to hold it half/open ish.
However, despite not being perfect the test HAS worked. Now I need to not fall victim of the usual syndrome of talking an awful lot about training, buying stuff and then not actually addressing our weaknesses.
Wednesday, 8 October 2008
Streng?
Tonight I went down the works with Nat, thankfully there wasn't a band of pitch fork wielding employees waiting for me behind entrance.
I undertook a thorough warm-up, taking my time to ensure that I went through all of the motions. Basically every bit of me needed to be absolutely ready for what I was about to throw at it. Realistically being my 2nd session back, I was asking a lot!
Results:
Max Campus:
LH - 1-4-7
RH - 1-4-7
Smallest hold, hung one arm?
LH - Moon board smallest crimp
RH - Moon board smallest crimp
Length of hang on campus rung (standard size)
3 fingers open:
LH - 4s (poor)
RH - 2s (poor)
2 fingers open:
LH - Didn't bother
RH - Didn't bother
How many 1-armers?
LH - 5
RH - 2
How many pullups on a standard campus rung?
17
How many pullups on jugs (not a bar!)?
22
How long can you hold a front lever for:
5 sec
(One armers on a standard campus rung?
LH - 2
RH - 1)
What is the max amount of weight you can hang on yourself and still do a pullup on a standard campus rung?
~50kg (they didn't have plates so I had to use a Natalie instead)
A lot of this surprised me, I know I felt strong the other night but this shows that i'm not too far off where I was in terms of absolute strength. Campussing I've never really achieved more than 1-4-7, one armers i've done a few more but the powerpull on a rung amazed me. Nat's arms interfered with my shoulders and stopped me getting the rung fully locked below my chest which was a shame. It's safe to say that there weren't enough plates kicking about and asking every body their weight until I found a suitable load wasn't really a good idea. Scouse offered.
I think its safe to say that the test highlights the fact that my crimp strength is severely imbalanced compared to openhanding, and, that my core doesn't really fall into line with the rest of my body. This confirms what I've thought for a while now, I have tried to address a few of these issues before but injury has always prevented a methodic approach.
So where do I take it from now? I'm not exactly sure and i'm hoping that the readership of this blog may comment and let me know their thoughts (so I can ignore them, obviously).
Issues to be addressed:
Open hand strength - beastmaker training article looks good but what do people think, repeaters? weighted hangs?
Core - Lots of L-sits, levers etc. I enjoyed rings before so If I shift the focus towards levers rather than an all round workout that should be good?
Flexibility - i'm going to hassle Ned and see if I can get whatever he takes for this.
(Footwork and technique - an on going battle but climbing with Nat on easier grit allows me to really focus on that without getting disheartened, a long process but very worthwhile).
The results I've posted are for a very specific strength assessment tailored towards myself by a person who has a good idea of what I can and can't do. It's not gospel but can probably be altered to different levels if necessary. However, it's likely that deep down you know what your weak at. Work them and Stop Strong.
I undertook a thorough warm-up, taking my time to ensure that I went through all of the motions. Basically every bit of me needed to be absolutely ready for what I was about to throw at it. Realistically being my 2nd session back, I was asking a lot!
Results:
Max Campus:
LH - 1-4-7
RH - 1-4-7
Smallest hold, hung one arm?
LH - Moon board smallest crimp
RH - Moon board smallest crimp
Length of hang on campus rung (standard size)
3 fingers open:
LH - 4s (poor)
RH - 2s (poor)
2 fingers open:
LH - Didn't bother
RH - Didn't bother
How many 1-armers?
LH - 5
RH - 2
How many pullups on a standard campus rung?
17
How many pullups on jugs (not a bar!)?
22
How long can you hold a front lever for:
5 sec
(One armers on a standard campus rung?
LH - 2
RH - 1)
What is the max amount of weight you can hang on yourself and still do a pullup on a standard campus rung?
~50kg (they didn't have plates so I had to use a Natalie instead)
A lot of this surprised me, I know I felt strong the other night but this shows that i'm not too far off where I was in terms of absolute strength. Campussing I've never really achieved more than 1-4-7, one armers i've done a few more but the powerpull on a rung amazed me. Nat's arms interfered with my shoulders and stopped me getting the rung fully locked below my chest which was a shame. It's safe to say that there weren't enough plates kicking about and asking every body their weight until I found a suitable load wasn't really a good idea. Scouse offered.
I think its safe to say that the test highlights the fact that my crimp strength is severely imbalanced compared to openhanding, and, that my core doesn't really fall into line with the rest of my body. This confirms what I've thought for a while now, I have tried to address a few of these issues before but injury has always prevented a methodic approach.
So where do I take it from now? I'm not exactly sure and i'm hoping that the readership of this blog may comment and let me know their thoughts (so I can ignore them, obviously).
Issues to be addressed:
Open hand strength - beastmaker training article looks good but what do people think, repeaters? weighted hangs?
Core - Lots of L-sits, levers etc. I enjoyed rings before so If I shift the focus towards levers rather than an all round workout that should be good?
Flexibility - i'm going to hassle Ned and see if I can get whatever he takes for this.
(Footwork and technique - an on going battle but climbing with Nat on easier grit allows me to really focus on that without getting disheartened, a long process but very worthwhile).
The results I've posted are for a very specific strength assessment tailored towards myself by a person who has a good idea of what I can and can't do. It's not gospel but can probably be altered to different levels if necessary. However, it's likely that deep down you know what your weak at. Work them and Stop Strong.
Climbing with the Champ
The title sounds like it was written by Apollo Creed alas its just me again:
The "Scaffolding" post caused quite a storm in a teacup. Quite frustratingly so, as it was purposefully steered away from UKB in order to avoid any such hassle and allow the limited readership of this blog to here my inner paranoid ravings. Lesson learnt, this blog isnt quite private enough and despite the first paragraph effectively saying it was all parandoid ramblings of a scared individual some people took serious offence, just to clarify I'm not talking about Percy here (who answered a lot of long standing questions extremely well and in a very patient manner). I took the post down as to not cause any un-necessary trouble for both him and myself but left the comments in order to ensure transparency. It was a pretty rushed post and on reading it back it didn't come across entirely as intended. Despite all of this, yesterday, I was sorely tempted to put it back up. I won't go into that further.
Good news - the over dramatic italian has been silenced. Despite being warned that it had dodgy electrics Fiat took the diagnostic check to be gospel and ordered new parts (very £££), after a reasoned discussion yesterday they decided that was madness and have refunded our deposit etc. so in the end a routine service and a nice new set of front tyres has made it happy. I will be buying a fault reader for any future issues. I still can't believe that its routine not to use a multimeter or anything to check these failures have actually occurred. Another point to note is that Nat made very little progress with the garage throughout yesteday, they even assured her at one stage that they'd disabled the warning light (a physical impossibility), one phone call from me and it was all sorted and they were very apologetic. Makes you think.
Sunday Nat and I finally made our minds up and booked a Christmas jolly. From the 20th of Dec to the 3rd of Jan we will be staying at the Maisonbleau. Neil even kindly offered to arrange a tree (Waddage!).
Due to that fact, I decided it was time to get this show back on the road and dive head first back into climbing, a few hurried phone calls on Monday found Ned 'Champ, long hair, still slightly ginger' feehally was foundry bound and despite concerns that it's all a little bit too steep for me I decided to join him. Nat tagged along too (and climbed much better than last time). The evening went well with a dismaying display of strength and technique from Simon Lee's extremely young son.
Ned was climbing well, training fitness for the upcoming comp. Bony tony had injured himself somehow so had turned into stopwatch/dungeon master and was working the champ into the ground.
I felt like I climbed well, or very well considering. At first my feet felt very akward and clumpy but as the evening progressed things improved. I didn't fall off until I was about to call it a night, stupidly failing on the last move due to ignoring footholds and on the second failure picking a powerful pinch move to finish with. Ok, so I'm far from on form but it all looks rosey (well, apart from a finger that began aching pretty much straight away, RH middle).
Tonight, I will undertake a full strength assesment on myself (probably at the works). Hopefully this will show what I need to work on in order to get myself where I want to be by the 20th Dec and it should also provide an interesting comparison if I remember to repeat the same assesment at regular intervals down the line.
Lastly, please, if you take the time to read this blog (bored at work?) and are seriously offended easily then go elsewhere. At the end of the day anything you read should be treated exactly as it is; one mans (limited) opinion. Form your own about anything mentioned and if you think that any of the writing is vindictive or especially cutting towards one person then read it again. There are numerous examples on forums and blogs where things are read in a whole different manner to which they intended. That may be down to the shortcomings of one persons writing techniques or just a facet of the medium that we choose to write in.
The "Scaffolding" post caused quite a storm in a teacup. Quite frustratingly so, as it was purposefully steered away from UKB in order to avoid any such hassle and allow the limited readership of this blog to here my inner paranoid ravings. Lesson learnt, this blog isnt quite private enough and despite the first paragraph effectively saying it was all parandoid ramblings of a scared individual some people took serious offence, just to clarify I'm not talking about Percy here (who answered a lot of long standing questions extremely well and in a very patient manner). I took the post down as to not cause any un-necessary trouble for both him and myself but left the comments in order to ensure transparency. It was a pretty rushed post and on reading it back it didn't come across entirely as intended. Despite all of this, yesterday, I was sorely tempted to put it back up. I won't go into that further.
Good news - the over dramatic italian has been silenced. Despite being warned that it had dodgy electrics Fiat took the diagnostic check to be gospel and ordered new parts (very £££), after a reasoned discussion yesterday they decided that was madness and have refunded our deposit etc. so in the end a routine service and a nice new set of front tyres has made it happy. I will be buying a fault reader for any future issues. I still can't believe that its routine not to use a multimeter or anything to check these failures have actually occurred. Another point to note is that Nat made very little progress with the garage throughout yesteday, they even assured her at one stage that they'd disabled the warning light (a physical impossibility), one phone call from me and it was all sorted and they were very apologetic. Makes you think.
Sunday Nat and I finally made our minds up and booked a Christmas jolly. From the 20th of Dec to the 3rd of Jan we will be staying at the Maisonbleau. Neil even kindly offered to arrange a tree (Waddage!).
Due to that fact, I decided it was time to get this show back on the road and dive head first back into climbing, a few hurried phone calls on Monday found Ned 'Champ, long hair, still slightly ginger' feehally was foundry bound and despite concerns that it's all a little bit too steep for me I decided to join him. Nat tagged along too (and climbed much better than last time). The evening went well with a dismaying display of strength and technique from Simon Lee's extremely young son.
Ned was climbing well, training fitness for the upcoming comp. Bony tony had injured himself somehow so had turned into stopwatch/dungeon master and was working the champ into the ground.
I felt like I climbed well, or very well considering. At first my feet felt very akward and clumpy but as the evening progressed things improved. I didn't fall off until I was about to call it a night, stupidly failing on the last move due to ignoring footholds and on the second failure picking a powerful pinch move to finish with. Ok, so I'm far from on form but it all looks rosey (well, apart from a finger that began aching pretty much straight away, RH middle).
Tonight, I will undertake a full strength assesment on myself (probably at the works). Hopefully this will show what I need to work on in order to get myself where I want to be by the 20th Dec and it should also provide an interesting comparison if I remember to repeat the same assesment at regular intervals down the line.
Lastly, please, if you take the time to read this blog (bored at work?) and are seriously offended easily then go elsewhere. At the end of the day anything you read should be treated exactly as it is; one mans (limited) opinion. Form your own about anything mentioned and if you think that any of the writing is vindictive or especially cutting towards one person then read it again. There are numerous examples on forums and blogs where things are read in a whole different manner to which they intended. That may be down to the shortcomings of one persons writing techniques or just a facet of the medium that we choose to write in.
Monday, 6 October 2008
The School is DEAD!
On Sat, before rushing off to attend a retirement party weekend, I ended up at the top of heeley bank, very tired and a little hungover from 'cocktail hour' that had ended up being more like Tequila night. It was the temptation of 'the last session' that had me out of bed so early on a Saturday morning but alas it wasn't to be.
The old school building looked very depressing as I sat there awaiting the other members and I felt almost glad to be removing the boards from our room as I felt sure that they wouldn't last long in there without constant monitoring.
Keith arrived 5 mins or so later, followed by Joe, Nacho and later on Ben P (Other people came and went throughout the morning and afternoon I assume).
After a brief bit of vandalism by Joe we found the bottom door to be open and also found that the caretaker, Darren, has a new image; bleached blond and dubious skin tight black garments, his shakes are less obvious now as well.
Keith and I went up to the boards and gingerly opened the door. I was expecting it to be the same as we'd left it however the council had covered the entire window with wooden boards so the only working (energy saving) light bulb made little inroad on the darkness. The place looked creepy, all that was obvious was the bottom edge of the campus board. I took it upon myself to scrabble up to the top and fiddle with the lights. We got one working and something became very apparent; the council had managed to lock in 4 or so pigeons who had obviously camped out on rung 9 and proceeded to shit absolutely everywhere before very kindly dying. One under each board. The fact that I put my drill case down right next to a carcass shows just how dark it really was at first!
It soon became obvious that the door that was open wasn't going to be enough so Keith and I began work removing the vandal proof doors (these were pretty secure) from the top fire escape. It took a lot of work but eventually after lots of kicking, cutting and drilling it was open and surprisingly two lads with hoodies drilling through doors didn't seem to cause a stir which wasn't the case later on when I was informed that the police were called because of all the comings and goings.
The dismantling began with the Moon board. Everyone got to work shifting things whilst joe went to sort a van and ben went to buy us all of the equipment we'd forgotten. Dust masks were highly welcome but unfortunately i'm still sneezing toxic school dust today, monday.
As the morning progressed, the air quality proceeded to get worse. Just check out Ben's drill after just taking one panel off the moon board!
Everything went smoothly, Moon, Campus, 15 deg, 50 deg 30 I believe. The structural integrity of the boards was pretty horrific, things were tied together and that campus board wasn't attached at the bottom. Only five screws held the campus panels to the frame work.
Above is a picture of the 50 deg board (left), thats not chalk on the lense as you can see by the picture taken minutes below of vic, who got the nasty job of brushing down all of the boards.
I'm obviously not going to try and name everyone that helped out but it was really good to see everyone putting the effort in to save these board. Notably Joe for organising it, Keith for driving such a long way, and Nacho because he's never even climbed there and it was disgusting work for a volunteer.
Angles to remember:
50 = 56 (Thats why it was always so hard!)
30 = 28
15 = 17
Tonight I climbed with Ned at the Foundry but more on that some other time.
Oh, I should also probably add that the School was one of the most structurally unsound boards I have ever had the pleasure of climbing on, however, it was still nowhere near as dangerous as my very own balcony board. I think Bonjoy was accurate with his Asterix comparison however he should have also added, campus board, fingerboards and screws penetrating my feet. Possibly electrocution as well.
The works has none of the above problems. In fact I'd recommend training there.
The old school building looked very depressing as I sat there awaiting the other members and I felt almost glad to be removing the boards from our room as I felt sure that they wouldn't last long in there without constant monitoring.
Keith arrived 5 mins or so later, followed by Joe, Nacho and later on Ben P (Other people came and went throughout the morning and afternoon I assume).
After a brief bit of vandalism by Joe we found the bottom door to be open and also found that the caretaker, Darren, has a new image; bleached blond and dubious skin tight black garments, his shakes are less obvious now as well.
Keith and I went up to the boards and gingerly opened the door. I was expecting it to be the same as we'd left it however the council had covered the entire window with wooden boards so the only working (energy saving) light bulb made little inroad on the darkness. The place looked creepy, all that was obvious was the bottom edge of the campus board. I took it upon myself to scrabble up to the top and fiddle with the lights. We got one working and something became very apparent; the council had managed to lock in 4 or so pigeons who had obviously camped out on rung 9 and proceeded to shit absolutely everywhere before very kindly dying. One under each board. The fact that I put my drill case down right next to a carcass shows just how dark it really was at first!
It soon became obvious that the door that was open wasn't going to be enough so Keith and I began work removing the vandal proof doors (these were pretty secure) from the top fire escape. It took a lot of work but eventually after lots of kicking, cutting and drilling it was open and surprisingly two lads with hoodies drilling through doors didn't seem to cause a stir which wasn't the case later on when I was informed that the police were called because of all the comings and goings.
The dismantling began with the Moon board. Everyone got to work shifting things whilst joe went to sort a van and ben went to buy us all of the equipment we'd forgotten. Dust masks were highly welcome but unfortunately i'm still sneezing toxic school dust today, monday.
As the morning progressed, the air quality proceeded to get worse. Just check out Ben's drill after just taking one panel off the moon board!
Everything went smoothly, Moon, Campus, 15 deg, 50 deg 30 I believe. The structural integrity of the boards was pretty horrific, things were tied together and that campus board wasn't attached at the bottom. Only five screws held the campus panels to the frame work.
Above is a picture of the 50 deg board (left), thats not chalk on the lense as you can see by the picture taken minutes below of vic, who got the nasty job of brushing down all of the boards.
I'm obviously not going to try and name everyone that helped out but it was really good to see everyone putting the effort in to save these board. Notably Joe for organising it, Keith for driving such a long way, and Nacho because he's never even climbed there and it was disgusting work for a volunteer.
Angles to remember:
50 = 56 (Thats why it was always so hard!)
30 = 28
15 = 17
Tonight I climbed with Ned at the Foundry but more on that some other time.
Oh, I should also probably add that the School was one of the most structurally unsound boards I have ever had the pleasure of climbing on, however, it was still nowhere near as dangerous as my very own balcony board. I think Bonjoy was accurate with his Asterix comparison however he should have also added, campus board, fingerboards and screws penetrating my feet. Possibly electrocution as well.
The works has none of the above problems. In fact I'd recommend training there.
Friday, 3 October 2008
Thursday, 2 October 2008
Working out with Rab!
Well I didn't manage to go to the gym on Tues as my report dragged on for longer than it ought to. Only slightly annoying seeing as though she didn't read it when she said she would and hence I could of relaxed a little more and handed it in a day later than I did. No worries though, that draft is out of the way.
As I'd worked myself into the ground I allowed myself to sleep in until I woke. This is to try and avoid becoming ill or even worse having a disappointing training session (of which I've only had a few).
Warmed up then went on Bench to start with, I'm still reasonably poor at this exercise and its getting annoying, i've seen gains they're just not fast enough for my liking something not true of the next exercise, Deadlift.
The other day (see below) I did a pb of 100kg but I knew deep down that I could get more out it, I was nowhere near my limit. The first few sets I went light, 40kg for 8, 60kg for 6, 80kg for 6 to ensure my back was fully warmed up and ready to be tested. I wandered over to the other side of the gym to enforce a decent rest period and to pick up more plates on the way in. I took my time racking up the bar and stood there for a while looking at it and psyching myself up. Feet in the right position, one glance forward to set myself correctly, then one to the side mirror. No straps, no belts, overhand grip. I started to push and it came so easily, no shrugging at the top and I locked my shoulders back and chest forward. Done. 5kg's more. Repeat. 5kg's more. Repeat. Repeat. The next thing I knew I was tiring (a lot of reps so far), I had 120Kg laying in front of me. I pushed hard and with a little grunt locked my chest forward, nodded at myself in the mirror and lowered the weight before grinning wildly. 10kg more on the bar but this time it felt welded to the floor. With the advice of Dense ringing in my ears I quit "While I still have a back!". I'm not sure if 120kg is my limit as I did so many reps beforehand, it can't be far off mind but that 145kg doesn't seem so elusive now.
So that's it 120kg @ 54 kg (weighed just after). Richdraws from UKB reliably informed me that 'Mighty Malc' did 190kg i'm not sure what at, 65-70?
As I finished off the rest of my workout (notably struggling on the next two exercises, Weighted dips and pulls, super setted together), I noticed a bearded, muscled greying older wad working out in the corner. Some items of clothing screamed climber and it didn't take me long to work out it was Rab, he'd noticed the faded BBC vest I was wearing and we had a brief chat. I hope i'm busting out 8a's when I'm his age I really do. Wad.
For anyone lacking pysch out there check out this Ronnie tribute (he deadlifts 800lb's!).
As I'd worked myself into the ground I allowed myself to sleep in until I woke. This is to try and avoid becoming ill or even worse having a disappointing training session (of which I've only had a few).
Warmed up then went on Bench to start with, I'm still reasonably poor at this exercise and its getting annoying, i've seen gains they're just not fast enough for my liking something not true of the next exercise, Deadlift.
The other day (see below) I did a pb of 100kg but I knew deep down that I could get more out it, I was nowhere near my limit. The first few sets I went light, 40kg for 8, 60kg for 6, 80kg for 6 to ensure my back was fully warmed up and ready to be tested. I wandered over to the other side of the gym to enforce a decent rest period and to pick up more plates on the way in. I took my time racking up the bar and stood there for a while looking at it and psyching myself up. Feet in the right position, one glance forward to set myself correctly, then one to the side mirror. No straps, no belts, overhand grip. I started to push and it came so easily, no shrugging at the top and I locked my shoulders back and chest forward. Done. 5kg's more. Repeat. 5kg's more. Repeat. Repeat. The next thing I knew I was tiring (a lot of reps so far), I had 120Kg laying in front of me. I pushed hard and with a little grunt locked my chest forward, nodded at myself in the mirror and lowered the weight before grinning wildly. 10kg more on the bar but this time it felt welded to the floor. With the advice of Dense ringing in my ears I quit "While I still have a back!". I'm not sure if 120kg is my limit as I did so many reps beforehand, it can't be far off mind but that 145kg doesn't seem so elusive now.
So that's it 120kg @ 54 kg (weighed just after). Richdraws from UKB reliably informed me that 'Mighty Malc' did 190kg i'm not sure what at, 65-70?
As I finished off the rest of my workout (notably struggling on the next two exercises, Weighted dips and pulls, super setted together), I noticed a bearded, muscled greying older wad working out in the corner. Some items of clothing screamed climber and it didn't take me long to work out it was Rab, he'd noticed the faded BBC vest I was wearing and we had a brief chat. I hope i'm busting out 8a's when I'm his age I really do. Wad.
For anyone lacking pysch out there check out this Ronnie tribute (he deadlifts 800lb's!).
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Please disregard anything you read on this page. It's all just random thoughts and opinions based on very little. Therefore it's not worth getting upset about. In fact; just don't bother reading it, it'd make life easier for everyone involved.