St Bees

As my computer is currently saying "DPM Iteration" and I have no idea how long that'll take I might as well write a blog post.

Basically, I've been going to the Foundry or Works occasionally and noticing improvements each time but still, I feel generally weak and in terms of all out 'strong as ever' comparison, I'm weak as a baby.

No matter though as it seemingly makes little difference.
Friday night came and Nat and I weren't happy looking at the Easter weekend destroying weather forecasts. However, a stroke of good luck was that led me to look at the St Bees forecast which was stunning for this weekend. One hour later, we were headed North to our beloved yellow van and then onwards across the 66 to St Bees.

It's been a long time since I was last there, a decade perhaps. I turned up young/stupid and with a rope to find most things gopping wet. This time I took the pad. We slipped our way down the easy descent and got stuck into the classics as the sun beat down upon us. The place is like port ysgo but much much better (landings and outlook).

I didn't have any particular goals so the day was spent running around like the preverbial dog with 6, trying everything and anything. I bumped into a fellow UKB'er which was good for banter and for pad stackage for Nat.

A quick shower in the middle of the day had us all ready to leave but too much chatting allowed the clouds to part and the rays of sun to once again beat down upon us. We waited for the rock to dry (like good responsible sandstone climbers) and then carried on, feeling ever more tired as the day progressed.

The other guys left and Nat and I hung around trying various bits and bobs before sacking it back to the van... via the Fishermans steps. Now Dan told me he replaced the rope which inspired confidence, until I saw the bolts, this is an accident waiting to happen. With a pad hanging loosely off your back and a stretchy galaxy to hold onto I wasn't that comfortable. Why on earth did I even consider the more dangerous exit option?

Anyway, we made it to the van. Realised we were knackered and as we'd both climbed well (or it felt like it to me), we went back to Keswick for a chippy tea.

Now thats not quite so much pressure on getting away for Easter weekend and we can simply see what the weather does to us.

Volume

I think the key to getting back on track with my climbing is simple; volume (not to be mistaken with volumes).
I went from training, to a trip where I climbed most days, to not climbing at all and general apathy. Thats never going to end well. At the start of the trip we ended up at shorter venues and then as we were forced further south the length and style of the routes we were tackling shifted. Thats all well and good, but compare the moves on a Montsant mega-route to that of something on Eldorado wall and you get an idea why I'm currently feeling weak.
Last night I wanted to go to the Foundry, basic problems are for a change what I need rather than what I want. However, Nat has mates she can climb with at the works and she's had even less time climbing since returning and thought Foundry bouldering might be a bit soul destroying. I agreed to go to the works.
The volume thing shone through again as warming up my forearms were feeling somewhat achey and my skin was thin and weepy. Nonetheless I skirted around, picking off a few of the (easier) reds before finishing on the comp wall. To give you an idea of my weakness; I still haven't done the red (the womens final problem). Last night I failed at the last move being a bit of a dunce, I didn't have the energy to get back up there. Oh well.
However, slight progress is once again evident. I have to admit I get slightly frustrated with people telling me how quickly and easily it'll all come back. I have to fight incredibly hard to get strong and maintain it, its not some gift, I put in a lot of effort. I can't just click my fingers and magically be able to pull on through. YES! It will return quickly, simply because I will MAKE it. I'll campus, I'll deadhang, anything. The plus point being that this time, for once in my climbing life, that is actually what I need to do!

Double Trouble

Something is troubling me deeply after this evenings session...

Earlier on tonight I found myself too weak to pull through a move and in a dismaying turn of events I shuffled my knees around until I found a position where I could lean out with ease, in a kneebar. Truth be told, I'm actually quite pleased that my technique and footwork has been seemingly dragged into 2010 and now isn't lagging behind quite as much as it previously felt. Its a good job as well as everything else is poor. Indoor climbing is a brutal game and any weaknesses become dreadfully apparent.

Locking between good holds, I'm a hero. Tick-tacking between small holds, I can get by. The instant the options for feet are diminished I'm off. I can't stop swings, I have no contact strength (I merely wave at holds) and raw power is non existent.

Its not the end of the world as I've never struggled to get any of those things back, it just takes a bit of effort. However, usually its one or two things that are lagging not most of them and I know exactly how to pull it back into line. Right now there's so much, finger strength, contact strength, power, core to name but a few. Where do I start? How do I start? WHERE do I start?

On another plus, I enjoyed tonight despite feeling dismayingly weak in the company of Mojo, blay and Variable. I think I'm about ready to get back into it all, maybe just.

On another note I feel I may have made yet another technoshizzle faux pas. I bought a HV40 a little while ago and at the time I was convinced it was the way to go, why on earth didn't I consider the fact that I could upgrade my DSLR for about the same cost and have one device that has the capability to do both after all I never chose to pick the HV up instead of my faithful DSLR. Whoops? I think so. Thankfully the second hand market for HV's is strong so I don't think I'd lose anything financially.

Man Flu

This weekend has been a bit of an anti climax. It was Nats birthday on Sunday and we'd found a cracking deal on a fancy hotel over in Manchester. However, she woke up ill and it just didn't seem worth blowing the cash on a fancy room in which to feel crap. Not a problem, she was feeling all better this morning (she'd booked the day off). However, I awoke all Man Flu'd up so today has been spent feeling rubbish and trying to get a sensible answer out of the management company about how the hell I park anything other than my Punto in my darn space (which it currently seems that I can't?), finding the cheapest company that'll insure us for the next year (harder than it sounds!) and booking the car in for an MOT. What fun!
I'm fairly certain working is bad for you. On the trip it took Nat 2 months to lose the 'tired eyes' look. It took under 2 weeks for them to return. She's been ill twice in 6 weeks and I've been the same.
At least daytime TV is some what enriched with the presence of the Winter Olympics.

Donkey

I've never really been all that bothered about being weak in front of people I know and its a good job because currently I'm VERY weak (the fitness has remained but everything else has evaporated). However, I hate climbing poorly in front of people I know (or even strangers), its appalling. Last night I felt like an amateur. My feet like lead blocks, my stomach muscles; saggy. My thumbs have zero squeeze, and keep getting caught underneath my fingers when I snatch at crimps. Seriously, I can't crimp. No, scratch that. I can't climb....

But the thing is I can. When Nat and I went out on the grit I climbed well. My feet felt good for a change and I had a thoroughly enjoyable morning. Maybe this indoor malarkey isn't what its cracked up to be?

Its all very odd.

"Lighting Works"

Last night I ended up at the works. It wasn't planned. It was just 'convenient'. Nat wanted to try a dance class that was on that side of town and it simply wasn't worth driving back home and then out again, so I went to the works. Last time I went I hated it. Plastic seemed dire and I just couldn't bring myself to try hard. Add to that the fact that it felt brutal compared to climbing on rock and I wasn't a fan.

This time was different. I didn't hate, nor did I love the experience or miss it deeply. It was quite interesting to see how I climbed. It all started really well, I felt light on my feet and could lock everything with ease. My power soon faded by the time I got stuck into the meat of the comp wall. The green shot me down on the match and then almost every move above that. I called it a night sooner than I thought and today my forearms ache.

Its not as if I've been doing nothing mind you, I've been at the gym. Not with regularity but enough. My PB lifts have been matched and now I feel in limbo between avoiding climbing here and not really wanting to go to the gym. Good job I've found something else to distract myself...

My Chinese strobist kit arrived in the post a little while ago now. I went for a budget set-up as really anything else is very expensive and I didn't have a clue if I'd be as interested once I started trying things out (as I thought I'd fail). So for roughly 150 sheets I have two flashes both E-ttl capable with full manual capabilities and two (reliable) radio triggers, a stand and an umbrella. Not bad when you compare OM brand products with the same capabilities.

My first 'out of the box' shots were cr*p, but then again I hadn't showered or shaved and literally tore open the parcel and started firing away. Later on I convinced Nat to go for a wander around Kelham island and these are the results:

For a first stab I was pretty happy. They're far from perfect but TBH I haven't really shot that many portraits let alone with off-camera flash thrown in for good measure.
This weekend I managed to get another 30mins of compliance to try and balance some ambient light with the additional off-camera light. These are the results:

Taken right next to the flats. I have to admit that at first I felt like a right tw*t carrying and setting this stuff up in public but now I'm not so fussed. I like the results. Again, sure they need work and I've got a lot to learn but thats great. I seem to be very psyched to read stuff at the minute and try it out, this area of photography has plenty to go at and when I'm feeling particularly ambitious I can try and DIY some of the equipment used. I'm already planning on modifying my transmitter so it works off a more readily available battery pack.

If only I could find this enthusiasm for work. I've done so little since returning. I have an issue, a major issue; a desk squatter. She's a foreign exchange student who has been using (and not maintaining I might add) my machine. She's resisting vacating the seat as its basically less hassle for her to finish off there rather than using remote jobs. I really wish she'd f*ck off though as I just get moody and don't do anything for days.

(I took one more frame at the Works, but as James wasn't feeling great I didn't get quite as much time to setup as I'd hoped - shame as it was nearly empty - I'm not that fond of it, but here it is anyway)

Hungry Eyes

Since returning, I haven't found much spare time to blog. That seems odd as it also seems like I haven't managed to get too much work done either. What have I been doing?
Well, the thing is, before we left there were some things that needed doing around the flat and there were also certain pieces of tech that I wanted to buy. As we didn't spend anywhere near as much as we originally thought on the trip I went ahead and did just that. I should really say 'we' as Nat has been going mad buying clothes. The side effect of a 6 month trip is a dress size that isn't widely catered for in the UK market.

Exercise? Well unfortunately I crumbled and joined the gym. I tried very hard to climb but I just couldn't hack the indoor scene straight off. Numbing my mind throwing bits of metal around seemed like the obvious option. I did have a change of heart as the first set of gym paperwork was thrust under my nose, we left and went to the wall. We came back the next day and I signed my life away for 2 months minimum.

The gym is going well. I'm nowhere near as cut as I previously was as I'm not going on a specific cut. It works, but its not fun. Today I managed to equal my previous PB's which is a good indicator of how in shape I am at the minute, previously these lifts took me 3 months.
I managed to get around to doing another thing this week; relinquishing my 5.10 team membership. They first started giving me boots just before my leg, since then I've done nothing of note and quite frankly this trip highlighted just how good some much younger people are in comparison. I've voiced my thoughts on doing this previously and many people seemed to be of the mentality that I should just shut up and take what I was given. It didn't seem right any longer. Other people, much more psyched can benefit more from that membership than me. Hopefully it goes to an uber psyched Sheffield resident who is looking monstrously strong and keen at the minute. I really have to say thanks to Mark, they continued supporting me when all I gave them was some cr*ppy pictures and a whole list of injuries. Thanks.



Another few days were lost completely to computers. My video camera broke so I replaced it. My PC couldn't edit the footage so I replaced it. Windows 7, compiling all of my various bits of software etc. took a while. Then my parents wanted a new PC as theirs had major hardware failure. So I obliged. Another day down. BUT isn't Windows 7 great? If I can find a 4Gb USB drive I think my Acer D150 could do with a sprucing.
The next major loss of time was solely down to the strobist website. I loved taking pictures on our trip. Granted, most are rubbish but there are a few that I really LOVE. Looking through Flickr I found mention of the Strobist site. I began to read and read I did until it was 4am and there wasn't a single blog post that I hadn't scanned. I had a whole lot more knowledge but noway of using it. More research and I found a budget setup and a heavily sought after DVD called one light. More watching, more reading and I am psyched out of my mind. Nat is quite patient which is a good thing as I think I'm going to suck at this for a while before I produce anything half decent. Should be interesting. The more and more I look at various things I wish I'd gone Nikon right from the start.
So now there are several things on the way from ebay (read: Hong Kong). I hope they come soon and that nothing is DOA.

At the end of the DVD (again at some ungodly hour) it begins a small Lightroom tutorial. I've seen Cofe and JB recommend this on UKB but never really tried. I've always used the GIMP (which isn't exactly an intuitive program). Lightroom is fantastic, simple, good to look at and I seem to get better results. The internet is great, now I can get lost in youtube Lightroom tutorials for a week or so before emerging pale skinned and malnourished. Oh, wait a minute.