Wednesday 21 July 2010

Unleashing the dank physique

The cornice certainly won today...

The clean routes were unaffected by this recent spell of poor weather. The less clean stuff wasn't and was hanging onto moisture to the bitter end.
After nearly punching myself in the face a few times on undercuts and then becoming airborne in a blink of an eye. My best boots split with a giant smile rendering them useless.
After this performance I'd run out of excuses why not to get on something tricky. Monumental was clearly going to be too much and a little damp, K3 and RNP appealed but something a bit more left field, featuring the word 'technical' appealed the most. Unleashing the wild physique seems to follow a fantastic line (or it looks too from the ground), the climbing is thin and technical with some finishing spice. Its at a bit more of an ameanable grade than the other routes on my list (although in my estimation it sits fairly high in this boundary).
Anyway I had a brief crack, which rapidly turned to bolt to bolting (wearing a ruined pair of dragons). To be brutally honest I found it quite hard. The bottom is easy, the top is ok but very fluff-able, the middle is thin and very fluff-able. My sequence doesn't seem perfect but a quick chat with Carl suggested I make a few adjustments that retrospectively make sense.
Typing this, my middle finger aches. I'm a little worried, with little over a week before the big hol I don't really want to re-injure my finger. It might be worth backing off just ever so slightly until afterwards.
Cordless Madness looked good from above and has been added to 'the list'.

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