Tor'd

Another of the 'excuse routes' went down the other day and just as I was about to get on the last remaining one it was snatched from beneath my gaze by an eager clipstick. To be fair, I was knackered from the previous evening and having done an awful lot of mileage in the last week, I wanted a rest day.
Saturdays weather didn't offer an easy choice of weekend destination so we stayed in the Peak. We didn't get going quickly either. Some time in the afternoon we plumped for High Tor and drove through on and off sunshine and rain all the way to Matlock. At the top it was windy so we sat (and bickered) wasting time. If we were both honest, neither of us were feeling the psych.
The clouds parted and after pointing a nearby walker in what I now know was completely the wrong direction (oops, thankfully not off the cliff), we bit the bullet and abbed in. Darius was what I wanted having thought I'd followed it a good few years ago with a Mr. Bell (namedrop alert). That day we didn't have a guide just a local climber who obviously didn't know what on earth he pointed us at. The route I did on Saturday was not the same and considerably easier. I remember starting up a hanging groove which had a large bit of tat hanging from a peg with a ring (which was split) and then belaying off on the right somewhere on a very large (4" diameter) round 'peg' which was folded behind a flake, does anyone know what this might have been? I'm pretty sure we finished on the final pitch of Debauchery.
Anyway, this time we did have a guide, and to be fair, the line is bleeding obvious. Its good too. We split the pitch for a few reasons and I have to say it took me a good long time to find a decent stance between the miriad of shit pegs on perseus. My nutkey, some digging and threading came good and I was happy. (For all of the purists out there I made sure I went back down onto the original line as not to miss out any of the hard climbing.
Higher up on the crux move, (certainly the nicest move?), I managed to f*ck up my ropes. This was clearly going to lead to a lot of drag and a pain in my ass so I had great fun reversing the cross hands manouevre back to the bolt (another question, why is there a bolt right next to a bomber thread?). After this the climbing is piss but the territory steepens a little. Nat didn't like this, especially when removing her knuckles to retrieve a wire.
Sunday was spent at high tor again, this time Perseus featuring on the agenda and some serious scoping of the routes right of Flaky wall (this looks fantastic by the way).
This week and the next she's up in Newcastle, leaving me to live the climbing bachelor lifestyle (wifebeater vest; check), complete with van. The problem is I've got a massive progress meeting a week on Thurs and a few unexpected twists and turns has left me a little pushed for time. I can do the work easily enough IF it'll converge in time. It seems a waste not to make the most of this time but sadly its looking like I might have to scrounge what little climbing I can between bouts of hard work.
This evening was spent on the wave (what a wall!). I was expecting to get absolutely spanked but gladly I felt fairly strong and even better I seemed to be moving and twisting in all the right ways.

Two weeks to holiday time. Just made a ticklist and it amounts to 60 routes in North Wales alone.