Since coming back I've struggled (which is encouraging) to slip back into the training mentality and the quest for power for powers sake. Instead I've been getting out. Loads. At this point I'd like to say that its been a long time since I've enjoyed climbing in Britain this much. This weekend was no exception:
Learning from our mistakes we went where the weather dictated. Saturday was spent at Kilnsey with Nat becoming re-familiarised with the prospect of sport climbing and I became more accustomed to having to do more than a few moves in a row and finding my forearms to swell rapidly. Nothing special was achieved by either of us and for myself 4 routes (nothing of note) in, I went for a fifth whereby I curled up and died by the second bolt with chilly fingers and solid forearms. Despite this, I can't wait to get back. Nat's very keen to tick a few things and thus it begins!
Sunday we made a rash decision to go to North Wales. LPT looked bon, until we checked the tides (or Doyle did on our behalf) and found that the sea had other plans. A quick re-evaluation, Gogarth was mentioned but Nat wasn't too keen for seconding classic traverse pitches above the sea and instead we settled on the slate. Where I would have to quickly become happier with runouts and serious situations.
That I did as it soon became apparent that my rack (bought around 10 years ago and having nothing added since) is wholly inadequate for most trad routes. Take a trad route that only eats very small gear and I had one or two pieces at best. Not the ideal situation.
Nonetheless the day was spent ticking classics in Vivian quarry, Serengetti and then finally to finish at California with Looning the tube, which I fully expected Nat to hate. She loved it.
Monday we'd planned to do a route up the Nose on Dinas Mot. Like usual though we'd left it too late and after a few up and downs of the pass decided we'd rather climb than wait for a parking space. Therefore, we went straight back to the quarries. More california, a bit of Australia and then the tiers above looning. Not a bad day out, if a little busy for my liking.
The journey back took a little over four hours which was mildly eased by Radio 1's DnB takeover. Mildly.
Tonight I went to the works. A warm heat and strange conditions left my hands feeling glassy on everything. The board spat me off in disgust which has left an undesired pain in my neck. Currently I have an old Umbro sock, filled with brown rice and a few dashes of olbas oil (to hide the smell) draped over my neck after spending a few minutes in the microwave.
At the minute I'm juggling too many lists in my head an invariably I will forget one. Its come the time to put virtual pen to virtual paper and commit them to print.
Grit Omissions:
- Purple Haze
- Velvet Crab (although after my warm scrittle attempt I'm not so psyched)
Unfinished Business:
- Monsterosity - my biggest redpoint glitch to date. I just can't finish this one
- Hot Fun Closing - should be a formality later on in the summer season
Get Fit:
- Comedy
- Ground Effect
- Sticky Wicket
- 50 for 5
- Dominatrix
- Biological
- Frankie
- Sideshow
- I'd also love to try Mandela, I'm not such a pussy these days and Nat is happy to play belay bunny so it should be on. Kristian always said it was only worth 7c+ you just got the grade for finding it in condition and digging mud out of the holds!
Destinations:
- Pembroke
- Lundy
- -Devils Slide
- Fair Head
- -Wall of Prey
- The Pass
- -Lorraine
- -Cenotaph
- -Left Wall
- -Cemetary
- Tremadog
- -Vector
- North Wales Slate
- -Pull my daisy
- -Collosus
- -Mau Mau
- -Dervish
- LPT
- -Anything, its all great
- Gogarth (yes I did just type that)
- -Dream of white
- -anything on yellow walls that Nat agrees to.
There's f*cking loads to climb on this Isle.
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