St Bees

As my computer is currently saying "DPM Iteration" and I have no idea how long that'll take I might as well write a blog post.

Basically, I've been going to the Foundry or Works occasionally and noticing improvements each time but still, I feel generally weak and in terms of all out 'strong as ever' comparison, I'm weak as a baby.

No matter though as it seemingly makes little difference.
Friday night came and Nat and I weren't happy looking at the Easter weekend destroying weather forecasts. However, a stroke of good luck was that led me to look at the St Bees forecast which was stunning for this weekend. One hour later, we were headed North to our beloved yellow van and then onwards across the 66 to St Bees.

It's been a long time since I was last there, a decade perhaps. I turned up young/stupid and with a rope to find most things gopping wet. This time I took the pad. We slipped our way down the easy descent and got stuck into the classics as the sun beat down upon us. The place is like port ysgo but much much better (landings and outlook).

I didn't have any particular goals so the day was spent running around like the preverbial dog with 6, trying everything and anything. I bumped into a fellow UKB'er which was good for banter and for pad stackage for Nat.

A quick shower in the middle of the day had us all ready to leave but too much chatting allowed the clouds to part and the rays of sun to once again beat down upon us. We waited for the rock to dry (like good responsible sandstone climbers) and then carried on, feeling ever more tired as the day progressed.

The other guys left and Nat and I hung around trying various bits and bobs before sacking it back to the van... via the Fishermans steps. Now Dan told me he replaced the rope which inspired confidence, until I saw the bolts, this is an accident waiting to happen. With a pad hanging loosely off your back and a stretchy galaxy to hold onto I wasn't that comfortable. Why on earth did I even consider the more dangerous exit option?

Anyway, we made it to the van. Realised we were knackered and as we'd both climbed well (or it felt like it to me), we went back to Keswick for a chippy tea.

Now thats not quite so much pressure on getting away for Easter weekend and we can simply see what the weather does to us.

Volume

I think the key to getting back on track with my climbing is simple; volume (not to be mistaken with volumes).
I went from training, to a trip where I climbed most days, to not climbing at all and general apathy. Thats never going to end well. At the start of the trip we ended up at shorter venues and then as we were forced further south the length and style of the routes we were tackling shifted. Thats all well and good, but compare the moves on a Montsant mega-route to that of something on Eldorado wall and you get an idea why I'm currently feeling weak.
Last night I wanted to go to the Foundry, basic problems are for a change what I need rather than what I want. However, Nat has mates she can climb with at the works and she's had even less time climbing since returning and thought Foundry bouldering might be a bit soul destroying. I agreed to go to the works.
The volume thing shone through again as warming up my forearms were feeling somewhat achey and my skin was thin and weepy. Nonetheless I skirted around, picking off a few of the (easier) reds before finishing on the comp wall. To give you an idea of my weakness; I still haven't done the red (the womens final problem). Last night I failed at the last move being a bit of a dunce, I didn't have the energy to get back up there. Oh well.
However, slight progress is once again evident. I have to admit I get slightly frustrated with people telling me how quickly and easily it'll all come back. I have to fight incredibly hard to get strong and maintain it, its not some gift, I put in a lot of effort. I can't just click my fingers and magically be able to pull on through. YES! It will return quickly, simply because I will MAKE it. I'll campus, I'll deadhang, anything. The plus point being that this time, for once in my climbing life, that is actually what I need to do!

Double Trouble

Something is troubling me deeply after this evenings session...

Earlier on tonight I found myself too weak to pull through a move and in a dismaying turn of events I shuffled my knees around until I found a position where I could lean out with ease, in a kneebar. Truth be told, I'm actually quite pleased that my technique and footwork has been seemingly dragged into 2010 and now isn't lagging behind quite as much as it previously felt. Its a good job as well as everything else is poor. Indoor climbing is a brutal game and any weaknesses become dreadfully apparent.

Locking between good holds, I'm a hero. Tick-tacking between small holds, I can get by. The instant the options for feet are diminished I'm off. I can't stop swings, I have no contact strength (I merely wave at holds) and raw power is non existent.

Its not the end of the world as I've never struggled to get any of those things back, it just takes a bit of effort. However, usually its one or two things that are lagging not most of them and I know exactly how to pull it back into line. Right now there's so much, finger strength, contact strength, power, core to name but a few. Where do I start? How do I start? WHERE do I start?

On another plus, I enjoyed tonight despite feeling dismayingly weak in the company of Mojo, blay and Variable. I think I'm about ready to get back into it all, maybe just.

On another note I feel I may have made yet another technoshizzle faux pas. I bought a HV40 a little while ago and at the time I was convinced it was the way to go, why on earth didn't I consider the fact that I could upgrade my DSLR for about the same cost and have one device that has the capability to do both after all I never chose to pick the HV up instead of my faithful DSLR. Whoops? I think so. Thankfully the second hand market for HV's is strong so I don't think I'd lose anything financially.