Got wood?

Tonight (at the Works) I decided that next session, I'll be joining the Foundry. Not simply because its closer as an in-situ wonder mule made the though of boarding it at the works actually appealing, but simply because I can't have productive sessions there often enough.

Tonight (again) as I attempted to train amidst the throngs of teenagers who thought dyno'ing and forward rolls were endlessly entertaining someone muttered "show off" as I was doing one armers on the giant scaffolding rather publically situated by the entrace. I looked stunned for a minute (I'd assume) and inwardly fought my tourretic self from screaming something involving CVNT very loudly. The very thought that I'd rather be in a dirty old building at the top of heeley as far away from this climbing reality as possible obviously wouldn't have occurred to him and I decided to just carry on.

Simply put: I long for the board back. To be able to train in relative solidarity without being angered by those around me. To be able to shout loudly when I fail knowing only that I might upset a very thin pot smoking violin maker (and even that was hard). I want problems back that highlight a lack of power, an inability to squeeze hard enough or to pull. I DON'T want to train to Kelis. I'll still endeavour to get out as much as possible but looking at my list of 'loose ends' from my research I can't see this Winter being that productive or facilitating a lot of 'extra' time. At least training hard will do something to quell the quesitons that circle in my head after a day spent staring at the same model I've been using for nigh on 3 years (the situtation of which seems to get worse daily).

As per the advice of a certain round farm animal I've been taking it easy, from a Summer of tradding and a fair break from training as I know it, my body simply isn't ready to jump back into training hard. Its gone from once a week, to two. Now it features a bit of touches and a few one armers. Shortly its time to look at whats lacking and get to it. My core seems floppy on the BM board and my fingers feel weak. Rings would be great, but I'm not going back there.

I usually find Gymjones' tweets to be a bit much but a recent quote from Ueli Steck was brilliant:

"I am not better than anyone else, I'm just fanatical about training"

Well I certainly share the sentiment about training.



(^ Proof that we actually do go outdoors still)

I finally managed to sell my Italian Stallion over the weekend. It's been advertised for four months with barely a whisper of interest apart from one text, quickly followed by another to tell me he'd found something better.

Being a Fiat it didn't go quietly. Having been sat in a garage for four months without being started or charged very often I felt certain that we'd be playing warning light roulette on the morning of the sale. Strangely after being on trickle charge it lept into aciton with the first turn of the ignition. Shortly after it was left ticking away on the drive to re-charge before sitting there anxiously waiting for the next idiot who fancies some budget hot (well warm) hatch diesel fun.

The viewing went fine with the guy crawling all over the car and not raising a single problem. That was until he asked me how to open the bonnet. Previously (on return from 6 months of fun) I'd found my Dad had managed to spring the cable from the release handle. It took a lot of cursing in the foot well but eventually in a cramped dark garage I had it back on and we were in business. Knowing all too well that it was a Fiat, I finger tightened the bolts as they were obviously going to need taking off sometime again.

I cursed some more, but no sweat this was a quick task out in the open and in less than 5 minutes the cable was re-attached. I pulled it. Nothing, pulled harder. Nothing, removed cable, used big pair of pliers. Nothing. Sent the viewers in for Coffee while I tried desperately to spring the bonnet to no avail. In the end it was a test drive (thank goodness it started) to the local garage who heaved on the cable whilst wrenching the bonnet upwards, managing to spring it. Phew. By this time I was heavily p*ssed off as my hopes of achieving a good price had evaporated. Suprisingly however they were in love with the little Italian despite its obvious quirks and only negotiated the negligibe cost of the cable from the price. Result.

So now we're left with this:



It has nearly a 100k on it and Nat has in her wisdom decided that the train is not for her and she's going to drive again. That amongst other things makes the van an impractical single vehicle. Its a shame really as it does look very nice. I'm trying very hard to pick a practical vehicle that we won't need to change for a while (it seems like I've bought and sold a lot of vehicles over the last 2-3 years). Despite this there's an Alfa on the list.

Roundabout

Its incredible how it is possible to go so quickly from climbing outdoors all the time, to being aware that everything that can is getting in the way of getting out and it has been almost a month since you did anything really enjoyable on rock. This isn't a good thing but as I approach thesis write up time, deadlines get closer, problems NEED to be solved and Nats new job is leaving us both less and less time, it is reality. Whilst I'm here moaning its also worth remembering that there are a great deal of people far busier than I, who have levels of psych that are just beyond me. Work, Cycling, Climbing, Family etc. I applaud you as I slump on my sofa.


Since Pembroke I've managed very little, a quick dabble up Sheperds crag with Nat and Dad which was far too easy to be anything more than a bit of fun. Climbing as a three and leading every pitch was a bit of a pain if I'm honest and protecting two seconds seemingly defeated the point of using two ropes for what realistically could have been done in one, 60m pitch without too much hassle or forethought.

Alas the day was not wasted as I bumped into one of the first people to take me climbing and teach me a thing or two. Mr 5c Senior, it's been roughly 8 years since I saw him last. Our conversation was cut short as a small child tried their best to cut short their life by taking a tumble and clipping rocks, brances and everything else in sight. The kid was ok.

The slightest hint of climbing has been indoors. Its a funny one this; as Adam pointed out (no doubt whilst smirking), I've done a bit of a U-turn with regards to training, climbing and trad. Its been fun and I hope it'll stay with me for a long time. It may be easy, you mightn't have to be 'that' strong or fit but in reality it tests a whole different skillset, requires different knowledge and ultimately leads to some amazing experiences. There are a number of places in the UK that I still haven't visited, I hope to rectify this. If you're reading this and you once enjoyed a bit of the easy stuff and have never been to the likes of Pembroke I strongly urge you to give it a go. The routes I've done this year have been some of the highest quality that I've done in the whole of the UK. From watching a number of Seals bobbing up and down as I wobble high above a wire, to catching a little bit of sea spray on Rusty Walls, all of it has been fantastic. Despite this, its time I drifted back the other way a little. Comparitively (and I say that to avoid being one of those annyoing people who claims weakness before busting out a few one armers in an L-sit), I'm weak, my fingers are weak, my core is weak and I can't pull for toffee. If i'm going to enjoy my slightly imrpoved footwork after this winter then I'm going to have to re-align the starts and put in some hard work. It seems to be hard work. This summer has left me with a disdain for indoor wallas that previously I never felt, thankfully I still enjoy the masochistic undertones that training gives. Once I get going it'll be fine. So far this has consisted of a couple of trips to the Foundry and a bit of rings. Bring on the psych, albeit slowly as we all know how my body likes to cope with intensity. Snap.

On another note; Finally, someone has contacted me about the Punto which is a good thing as I was getting edgy and the van has been at the very front of my mind as an unnecessary luxury. As Dobbin points out, when you attach a certain value to motoring (even in a van) it gets costly. Do we really need it?

I also tried my best to cost myself yet more money by smashing a few flashes off some hard concrete. They've kind of survived, but it'll definately teach me to be a little less blase with minor gusts. I have to admit, I do quite enjoy dicking around with camera's at the minute. It'd be nice if everything stayed intact.

Have a picture: