Went up to the school on friday with Dave again, had a really good session, managed unamed as well as a few other things before ending up on the cressbrook board. My fingers are starting to wake up a little bit after their rest period which is nice.
Went back up there today. On entering some of the artists approached me asking if I could confirm or deny the rumour that the school had been granted a reprieve for one year. I couldn't so I sent nic a txt and waited for the answer. It came later, 1 more year, excellent news, really cheered me up and my session was really good (and amusing as I had Ben and JLS doing their best foreign accents). The tunes were good tonight as well, bitcomet is currently going crazy downloading all the stuff ben played, about time to as my DJ Shadow 2003 Essential Mix is getting a bit overplayed.
Today I managed to get up Driller Killer - Hammer Horror ending and then had a lot of really good goes on School Girl, didn't quite get it but i've never found it easy and suprised myself. Hit the pinch on too fluffy, rotated wildly and came off spectacularly. After this I moved my attention onto the cressbrook board, did a few little things, closer on Uncle Crimpy guts, did micro machines. Dave is looking good and strong on that board now, will be interesting to see what he gets up in Magic Wood. Switched to one armers to finish, 4kg assistancem, LH 5 reps RH 4, 6kg assitance the same. Did a few campus esque problems to finish. Excellent session. Better conditions after ben turned the outer radiator off, the place looked remarkably clean as well after a number of people put in some effort....Wednesday my Dad is heading down to sheffield to punter around on the grit, I reckon i'll join him but go training later in the day. I bet the tor was in good nic tonight however i'm still not ready to be taking falls onto mats outside...
Monday, 30 July 2007
Wednesday, 25 July 2007
Channel Surfing
Went to the board on monday, picked up a Sheffield Star up on the way, funny to see they cropped seb out of it, the only person who had set up a proper belay. That pick should give the council and the HSE enough reason to have us out by november. When I stepped outside last thursday the last thing I exepected was to get heckled from Nic stood in a "Titanic" esque pose on top of the school with one flimst runner at around 2/3rds height, never would of held.
Soon after getting there Dave and Ben turned up, and the session pretty much descended into trying anything and everything that we all thought was worth a pop. I don't think any one of us made it to the top of anything especially hard but we came close, my deviant right foot beta on Turd Reich proving good for not only me but Dave as well. Saw some major lanking manouvres from both dave and ben on Basic Ben, bet basic knitwear is a right ball ache if your tall....
We then switched our attention to the cressbrook board, which is rarely used. Nige turned up and soon joined us. Tried uncle crimpy guts but failed on the smallest hold. Tried stuperman, failed miserably, everyone got on a problem Ned and I climbed a while back, it's really good if a little sharp. I think dave want's steely fingers before magic wood in a month or so, if so, the cressbrook board is certainly the way forward.
Going up the board tonight but got woken up really early by the post man with a package and have been feeling pretty rubbish ever since....Hope its worthwile I just feel knackered.
Soon after getting there Dave and Ben turned up, and the session pretty much descended into trying anything and everything that we all thought was worth a pop. I don't think any one of us made it to the top of anything especially hard but we came close, my deviant right foot beta on Turd Reich proving good for not only me but Dave as well. Saw some major lanking manouvres from both dave and ben on Basic Ben, bet basic knitwear is a right ball ache if your tall....
We then switched our attention to the cressbrook board, which is rarely used. Nige turned up and soon joined us. Tried uncle crimpy guts but failed on the smallest hold. Tried stuperman, failed miserably, everyone got on a problem Ned and I climbed a while back, it's really good if a little sharp. I think dave want's steely fingers before magic wood in a month or so, if so, the cressbrook board is certainly the way forward.
Going up the board tonight but got woken up really early by the post man with a package and have been feeling pretty rubbish ever since....Hope its worthwile I just feel knackered.
Saturday, 21 July 2007
Update
Thursday was graduation, I went from undergraduate to being a graduant to being a graduate all in one day... Went ok, posing for photos and stuff is never fun. It's the first time Nat's folks and mine had met, all went smoothly. Snook off at aroun 5.30 to get a quick session up at the school before the publicity stunt thing (picture in previous post).
The session was rushed but good I guess, did schoolboy again and then did pego, was going to go for total recoil but I didn't have it in me. Went outside to join the photo stunt to find Nic on the top of the schoolroom and various other people up drainpipes. I joined the group of artists on the floor. I had intended to go back in but after a bit of chat I decided it was a bit daft and headed off to the evening meal.
Friday morning came, Nat left with her folks to florida for 3 weeks. Went to Broomhill and had lunch with my folks and a family friend who is currently being treated at Weston Park, given the circumstances he seemed in a good mood and didn't look frail or anything.
Got up this morning with nothing to do so watched Ronin (I haven't got enough films to keep me going for 3 weeks without getting bored), then had lunch and headed up the board. Decided to walk it as that's what I usually do. The leg was feeling very akward and tight until I got through town then it loosened up. Got to the board as Rich H was leaving, re-arranged all of the pads as i'm now very fussy about landings, kicked up all the dust. B*gger. Warmed up Ok, gave flash it a miss incase it triggered the dodgey finger. Did the gift although not 1st time and I struggled. Then moved on to driller killer, couldn't do the last move due to leg but fairly happy with the effort, finger was feeling a little sore so I taped it then did a couple more easy problems before moving over onto the 15 deg board. Didn't manage to get up the problems I tried and kepy shooting off holds, ran out of chalk and my bad skin was meaning I was greasing everything up. Decided to call it a day and walked down to planetfear to buy chalk. No superchalk just moon stuff. Ok, headed over to Decathlon, nope none there either, where can I buy it? the moon stuff just isn't as good. Walked home by this time I was absoloutely knackered. I'm now looking for a good stretching routine, I havent got a lot planned in this 3 weeks now ( i'm going to head over to Europe when Nat gets back for 3-5 weeks instead) so I need something to kill a bit of time. I've never liked stretching so we'll see how it goes.
The session was rushed but good I guess, did schoolboy again and then did pego, was going to go for total recoil but I didn't have it in me. Went outside to join the photo stunt to find Nic on the top of the schoolroom and various other people up drainpipes. I joined the group of artists on the floor. I had intended to go back in but after a bit of chat I decided it was a bit daft and headed off to the evening meal.
Friday morning came, Nat left with her folks to florida for 3 weeks. Went to Broomhill and had lunch with my folks and a family friend who is currently being treated at Weston Park, given the circumstances he seemed in a good mood and didn't look frail or anything.
Got up this morning with nothing to do so watched Ronin (I haven't got enough films to keep me going for 3 weeks without getting bored), then had lunch and headed up the board. Decided to walk it as that's what I usually do. The leg was feeling very akward and tight until I got through town then it loosened up. Got to the board as Rich H was leaving, re-arranged all of the pads as i'm now very fussy about landings, kicked up all the dust. B*gger. Warmed up Ok, gave flash it a miss incase it triggered the dodgey finger. Did the gift although not 1st time and I struggled. Then moved on to driller killer, couldn't do the last move due to leg but fairly happy with the effort, finger was feeling a little sore so I taped it then did a couple more easy problems before moving over onto the 15 deg board. Didn't manage to get up the problems I tried and kepy shooting off holds, ran out of chalk and my bad skin was meaning I was greasing everything up. Decided to call it a day and walked down to planetfear to buy chalk. No superchalk just moon stuff. Ok, headed over to Decathlon, nope none there either, where can I buy it? the moon stuff just isn't as good. Walked home by this time I was absoloutely knackered. I'm now looking for a good stretching routine, I havent got a lot planned in this 3 weeks now ( i'm going to head over to Europe when Nat gets back for 3-5 weeks instead) so I need something to kill a bit of time. I've never liked stretching so we'll see how it goes.
Thursday, 19 July 2007
Tuesday, 17 July 2007
COMPEX
Right, used the compex on my forearms the night of my last session and once again the following day set on:
Sport---> Active Rest ---> level 100 (thats only 10%)
Went to the works early in the afternoon to spot Nat before heading up to the School in the evening with James Blay. Vicky was up there looking strong on the rings (ring workouts look nasty). Warmed up feeling ok until the last problem, stepped off and my LH ring finger was sore to the touch, it faded, I taped, but to be honest its been on my mind ever since. Did Basic Jez, then flash it then got on Basic Ben, cruised the lock up but failed on the move to the PP hold, I couldn't shove off my right foot on the hold you press at the start, it's starting to get annoying, did the top hard move so I put the failure down to the leg. Moved on to Turd Reich, fell off on the last pinch, a damn good effort but my power was fading quickly, a few more goes on that followed by a few on Total Recoil Bradbury Finish left me knackered, did a bit on the 15 deg board and 30 then packed in for the night, reasonable session and suprisingly my body was feeling ok, it might be a bit of a placebo effect but I kind of think that the active rest may have paid off. I'll try it for a while and see how it goes...
Finger worries me, the last thing I want is another injury, it seems ok now, a tiny bit tender if I rub my nail against my A2 pulley but that could just be because i'm fiddling with it.....
Magic Wood still up in the air Should I/Shouldn't I???
Emailed Polish Dave as Ben's blog entry left me a little miffed, I waited 3 years patiently, kept it polite....
Sport---> Active Rest ---> level 100 (thats only 10%)
Went to the works early in the afternoon to spot Nat before heading up to the School in the evening with James Blay. Vicky was up there looking strong on the rings (ring workouts look nasty). Warmed up feeling ok until the last problem, stepped off and my LH ring finger was sore to the touch, it faded, I taped, but to be honest its been on my mind ever since. Did Basic Jez, then flash it then got on Basic Ben, cruised the lock up but failed on the move to the PP hold, I couldn't shove off my right foot on the hold you press at the start, it's starting to get annoying, did the top hard move so I put the failure down to the leg. Moved on to Turd Reich, fell off on the last pinch, a damn good effort but my power was fading quickly, a few more goes on that followed by a few on Total Recoil Bradbury Finish left me knackered, did a bit on the 15 deg board and 30 then packed in for the night, reasonable session and suprisingly my body was feeling ok, it might be a bit of a placebo effect but I kind of think that the active rest may have paid off. I'll try it for a while and see how it goes...
Finger worries me, the last thing I want is another injury, it seems ok now, a tiny bit tender if I rub my nail against my A2 pulley but that could just be because i'm fiddling with it.....
Magic Wood still up in the air Should I/Shouldn't I???
Emailed Polish Dave as Ben's blog entry left me a little miffed, I waited 3 years patiently, kept it polite....
Sunday, 15 July 2007
The Magic School Boy...
After a bit of a lackluster session last time at the works I was set on heading up to the board, I even avoided mucking around yesterday in the pull-up competition as I wanted to get a feel for how strong/weak I really am after all this time off.
Got out of bed (lunch time), sorted to meet Ned and Dense at the board. Got a phonecall from ned, he'd got overkeen and arrived early. Went up, chatted to Ned, let dense in, Dylan turned up not too much later.
Here we go:
Chalk and blow x 2 normal seq. - Fine
Chalk and blow x 2 reverse handed - Fine
Basic Bannisters variation - Fine apart from I struggled to remember it
Whatever it is Flag women's way - Fine
Basic Jez - Fully locked, feeling STRANG!
Flash It! - My sequence, completely locking the last move. Fine.
Basic Knitwear - Nope, did the start moves, foot popped, changed to Dragons. Did the start move much easier, foot up high on the pinch, couldn't get my calf to move at all, shame but it was due to my leg and nothing else.
Decided to change my plan and try Schoolboy. Pulled on, the pinch seemed a long way away but I seemed to get it just, quick snatch into the traingular pinch, dab foot on undercut, blast out to the bannsiter, foot up and lock for Glory - Nice!
Point Dylan at Driller Killer, what an awesome problem.
Next up tried my party piece - Discology, couldn't do the pop after the cross through, again due to leg a little bit but mainly by this point due to being seriously powered out. Move to the 15 deg board, try Uncle Crimpy Guts but my fingers just don't feel quite ready.
Warm down and head to the works to give Nat a spot. She managed to get up the yellow/green thing up the curved board, got high praise for her progress by a few people which is always encouraging, she's doing well.
Dense, Ned, Foley and Jim are heading off to the land of magic grades. Must say i'm tempted to pack the car and do a 3 week europe trip while Nat's away, slightly worried about gate crashing though although some other people are out there too, Pearson seemed keen on the idea but has to think about how much it'll cost and chat to em, he said he'd get back to me so hopefully I might have the makings of a trip...
My forearms feel sore, I think i'm going to try and use my compex on them later....Wonder how that'll work out.
Got out of bed (lunch time), sorted to meet Ned and Dense at the board. Got a phonecall from ned, he'd got overkeen and arrived early. Went up, chatted to Ned, let dense in, Dylan turned up not too much later.
Here we go:
Chalk and blow x 2 normal seq. - Fine
Chalk and blow x 2 reverse handed - Fine
Basic Bannisters variation - Fine apart from I struggled to remember it
Whatever it is Flag women's way - Fine
Basic Jez - Fully locked, feeling STRANG!
Flash It! - My sequence, completely locking the last move. Fine.
Basic Knitwear - Nope, did the start moves, foot popped, changed to Dragons. Did the start move much easier, foot up high on the pinch, couldn't get my calf to move at all, shame but it was due to my leg and nothing else.
Decided to change my plan and try Schoolboy. Pulled on, the pinch seemed a long way away but I seemed to get it just, quick snatch into the traingular pinch, dab foot on undercut, blast out to the bannsiter, foot up and lock for Glory - Nice!
Point Dylan at Driller Killer, what an awesome problem.
Next up tried my party piece - Discology, couldn't do the pop after the cross through, again due to leg a little bit but mainly by this point due to being seriously powered out. Move to the 15 deg board, try Uncle Crimpy Guts but my fingers just don't feel quite ready.
Warm down and head to the works to give Nat a spot. She managed to get up the yellow/green thing up the curved board, got high praise for her progress by a few people which is always encouraging, she's doing well.
Dense, Ned, Foley and Jim are heading off to the land of magic grades. Must say i'm tempted to pack the car and do a 3 week europe trip while Nat's away, slightly worried about gate crashing though although some other people are out there too, Pearson seemed keen on the idea but has to think about how much it'll cost and chat to em, he said he'd get back to me so hopefully I might have the makings of a trip...
My forearms feel sore, I think i'm going to try and use my compex on them later....Wonder how that'll work out.
Saturday, 14 July 2007
Cliffhanger - Some thoughts on comps...
Remarkbly the weather was alright today. Got to graves park reasonably early considering my laziness and watched a bit of the qualifying, bit gutted I didn't enter as there didn't seem to be too much volume mounting and there was at least one gift. Had a wander around the rest of the park, there wasn't an amazing amount to do apart from shop, which unfortunately requires money. Abstained from the pull up competition (by the way earlier in the day I told a few people how I once watched Adam Dewhurst do around 60 pull ups in 1 minute at a previous competition, by the end of the day supposedly I could do 65. Genius!) as I want to hit the board fresh tomorrow. Roy told me there's some kind of publicity thing for the save the board on thursday, hopefully I can make it but thursday is graduation.
Anyway afternoon came and it was time for the Final's...Although katy whitaker put in a fine performance to take the win I was heavily un-impressed by average performance of the women, come on girls work your weakness' learn how to lock, at least a little bit.... Its always the same story.
Men's final came, Dan Bradley had a skinful then realised he qualified in 5th (top marks to that bloke), Poor Ste Mac just wasn't tall enough for almost all of the problems, Ryan's forearms are ridiculously long, Stu Watson is strong, Gaz parry has turned from beastly strong to beastly strong with mean fingers and deserved the win.
Now for my thoughts on comps - toyed with the idea of putting this on UKB but then thought better of it:
Whether or not comps are your thing, they exist, people do them and I can't really see the problem with that as long as they're taken for what they are and nobody gets too serious. (a comment written by Natalie Berry last year over on planetfear really did my head in, she basically [and i paraphrase] that she wasn't interested in climbing outdoors at all, for her comps are what mattered...).
Anyway:
At one point I counted over 30 people on the mat's (not including competitors, commentators, photographers and camera men), mostly consisting of WAG's/Boyfriends/Brothers/Mum's and Dads... Is this really necessary? It clutters up the climbing area and means the spectators could be a good 2ft closer if there wasn't this row of hangers on.
Another point - is it ethical to have someone's Mum/Dad/Brother be a judge/brush gimp/time gimp or even be in the area? I don't really think so, conflict of interest so to speak.
Although the commentator was ok today (if a little Hard Plastic esque), wouldn't it be better to have some young enthusiastic climber who knew a little background and wasn't reading off a sheet of figures? I'd say so, he kept screaming pull it, pull it, Doesn't he know the hip thing to say currently is "Kill Ty, Kill..."
One thing that I could definately see upsetting a large crowd like the one that turned out today forthe men's final would be a serious injury such as my own, Why does noone seem to want a spot or offer it? There were certainly enough people hanging about....
On an aside, these events obviously take a lot of effort to organise and pull off so good effort to all those involved, and for all you people out there who missed it, i'm sure British Team Productions will have it available for DVD soon...
Anyway afternoon came and it was time for the Final's...Although katy whitaker put in a fine performance to take the win I was heavily un-impressed by average performance of the women, come on girls work your weakness' learn how to lock, at least a little bit.... Its always the same story.
Men's final came, Dan Bradley had a skinful then realised he qualified in 5th (top marks to that bloke), Poor Ste Mac just wasn't tall enough for almost all of the problems, Ryan's forearms are ridiculously long, Stu Watson is strong, Gaz parry has turned from beastly strong to beastly strong with mean fingers and deserved the win.
Now for my thoughts on comps - toyed with the idea of putting this on UKB but then thought better of it:
Whether or not comps are your thing, they exist, people do them and I can't really see the problem with that as long as they're taken for what they are and nobody gets too serious. (a comment written by Natalie Berry last year over on planetfear really did my head in, she basically [and i paraphrase] that she wasn't interested in climbing outdoors at all, for her comps are what mattered...).
Anyway:
At one point I counted over 30 people on the mat's (not including competitors, commentators, photographers and camera men), mostly consisting of WAG's/Boyfriends/Brothers/Mum's and Dads... Is this really necessary? It clutters up the climbing area and means the spectators could be a good 2ft closer if there wasn't this row of hangers on.
Another point - is it ethical to have someone's Mum/Dad/Brother be a judge/brush gimp/time gimp or even be in the area? I don't really think so, conflict of interest so to speak.
Although the commentator was ok today (if a little Hard Plastic esque), wouldn't it be better to have some young enthusiastic climber who knew a little background and wasn't reading off a sheet of figures? I'd say so, he kept screaming pull it, pull it, Doesn't he know the hip thing to say currently is "Kill Ty, Kill..."
One thing that I could definately see upsetting a large crowd like the one that turned out today forthe men's final would be a serious injury such as my own, Why does noone seem to want a spot or offer it? There were certainly enough people hanging about....
On an aside, these events obviously take a lot of effort to organise and pull off so good effort to all those involved, and for all you people out there who missed it, i'm sure British Team Productions will have it available for DVD soon...
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