Plus, of course, BRUCE is amazing! A remake of the Cordless T-shirt is long overdue.
Afterwards Nat, James, Dense and I went to Zeugma's to top up on protein. Mmmm.
Thursday, 16 April 2009
Works
A phone call from Tideswell suggested that I give the tor a miss last night. Instead, unwillingly I might add, I climbed at the works. The finger felt fine ish but then again I avoided using it. Most of the comp wall problems went down with me having to use front 2 in quite a few holds to avoid risking further injury. I've still got the yellow problem through the roof to do, I simply can't read (nor climb) volumes. To be honest the current set of comp problems seem exactly the opposite of the last set, maybe a little too opposite? However, despite this, the red circuit is great! I managed to do my undercut board problem as well. Its not hard but I am injured.
Plus, of course, BRUCE is amazing! A remake of the Cordless T-shirt is long overdue.
Afterwards Nat, James, Dense and I went to Zeugma's to top up on protein. Mmmm.
Plus, of course, BRUCE is amazing! A remake of the Cordless T-shirt is long overdue.
Afterwards Nat, James, Dense and I went to Zeugma's to top up on protein. Mmmm.
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
Northern Soul...
The destinations were completely dictated by the weather. Hepburn on Fri morning then when the rain was due, off to Kyloe in for Nat to attempt a crushing of Bad Finger and Bad Company (unfortunately neither of which happened).
In the morning Northern Soul was the only thing of interest. Climbing it without weighting my left hand much at all made it a little more tricky than I expect it really is. Nonetheless a great problem at an ok crag. Sequence:
At Kyloe in Nat got stuck into her stuff while I worked away at a bogey problem of mine; Yorkshireman SS. Its one of those problems that despite spending a small age at Kyloe In, I could never really figure it out. Following the Earl's sequence one day left me sure that I'd never do it. Well helpful local lad A was giving out beta left right and centre and it wasn't long before I was at the top of the crack eyeing up the pocket. Slapping to a two finger pocket whilst injured? Err No. I tried the flip LH round and go with RH beta but its never worked for me on the standup. Therefore, I stopped. Completely made up with progress on this problem. Then a dog stole my chalk bag:
In the evening Laterooms had done well and landed us a far too swanky hotel. So swanky in fact that it had a dress code. The evening meal was simply the best I've ever had. It blew everything else I've ever eaten completely out of the water.
On Sat we headed to Shaftoe for Nat to try Soft Center. Despite piling everything we owned onto the mat's as well as doubling everything over she could barely reach the break. Hmmm. I eyed up blood sport. Its a good line but massively morpho. After this the sun came out and did its worst. We laid around for a while before deciding to call it quits. Sunday was spent with the family.
Monday; Slipstones.
It was hot but not too hot. I showed Nat around the crag and we picked off everything easy in sight. After stopping for lunch it was obvious that the temps had risen and the rock was baking. Again, we decided to cut our losses and head home. Skin still in tact and both looking forward to Spain in a weeks time!
In the morning Northern Soul was the only thing of interest. Climbing it without weighting my left hand much at all made it a little more tricky than I expect it really is. Nonetheless a great problem at an ok crag. Sequence:
At Kyloe in Nat got stuck into her stuff while I worked away at a bogey problem of mine; Yorkshireman SS. Its one of those problems that despite spending a small age at Kyloe In, I could never really figure it out. Following the Earl's sequence one day left me sure that I'd never do it. Well helpful local lad A was giving out beta left right and centre and it wasn't long before I was at the top of the crack eyeing up the pocket. Slapping to a two finger pocket whilst injured? Err No. I tried the flip LH round and go with RH beta but its never worked for me on the standup. Therefore, I stopped. Completely made up with progress on this problem. Then a dog stole my chalk bag:
In the evening Laterooms had done well and landed us a far too swanky hotel. So swanky in fact that it had a dress code. The evening meal was simply the best I've ever had. It blew everything else I've ever eaten completely out of the water.
On Sat we headed to Shaftoe for Nat to try Soft Center. Despite piling everything we owned onto the mat's as well as doubling everything over she could barely reach the break. Hmmm. I eyed up blood sport. Its a good line but massively morpho. After this the sun came out and did its worst. We laid around for a while before deciding to call it quits. Sunday was spent with the family.
Monday; Slipstones.
It was hot but not too hot. I showed Nat around the crag and we picked off everything easy in sight. After stopping for lunch it was obvious that the temps had risen and the rock was baking. Again, we decided to cut our losses and head home. Skin still in tact and both looking forward to Spain in a weeks time!
Thursday, 9 April 2009
Twatter
Again, I don't have Twatter but if I did:
Tenacity No. 2 pointed out that the best thing he ever did for his climbing was taking up surfing, hence not climbing as much and having something to do when injured. He also runs. I'm in awe of how the hell he fits it in. I'm not interested in surfing, well, not in this country! BUT and I think it is a big BUT, I think I could enjoy morbidly torturing myself on a road bike slogging my way around the Peak, my main concerns are that:
A) Someone WILL run me over
B) It's darn expensive
C) Someone will steal whatever I buy
D) I'll spend less time working than I currently do (which I cannot afford)
The cheaper option of running is out due to the impact on my sparrow leg. I could kill the gym cravings and the expense of the bike with one stone but I've never been one to sit on an aerobic machine indoors it just seems silly (well during the summer anyway).
The weekend plans remain unchanged but instead of me dictating where we go I've let Nat (with some nudging I admit) pick the destinations, that way I can just bimble around on anything that looks easy enough not to injure me further. Outdoors, I think its a lot harder to warm up effectively and control what you pull on. Holds are uneven, things are deceptively hard etc. hence I'll have to be extra careful.
Foley, I gave you the low down earlier, I'll be watching out to see what sauce is in your shaker!
Anyway that'll do, thoughts on a postcard...
- Paul is wondering (after flicking through the Northumberland guidebook) why Sheffield seemed so appealing?
- Paul is seriously abusing the recommended dose of Arnica capsules
- Paul's finger isn't feeling too bad today, maybe due to the above
- Paul will continue abusing the Arnica capsules, even if it is just for psychological benefits
- Paul seriously misses the gym
- @Dobbin - you're gay
- Maybe I secretly desire to have a Twatter account?
Tenacity No. 2 pointed out that the best thing he ever did for his climbing was taking up surfing, hence not climbing as much and having something to do when injured. He also runs. I'm in awe of how the hell he fits it in. I'm not interested in surfing, well, not in this country! BUT and I think it is a big BUT, I think I could enjoy morbidly torturing myself on a road bike slogging my way around the Peak, my main concerns are that:
A) Someone WILL run me over
B) It's darn expensive
C) Someone will steal whatever I buy
D) I'll spend less time working than I currently do (which I cannot afford)
The cheaper option of running is out due to the impact on my sparrow leg. I could kill the gym cravings and the expense of the bike with one stone but I've never been one to sit on an aerobic machine indoors it just seems silly (well during the summer anyway).
The weekend plans remain unchanged but instead of me dictating where we go I've let Nat (with some nudging I admit) pick the destinations, that way I can just bimble around on anything that looks easy enough not to injure me further. Outdoors, I think its a lot harder to warm up effectively and control what you pull on. Holds are uneven, things are deceptively hard etc. hence I'll have to be extra careful.
Foley, I gave you the low down earlier, I'll be watching out to see what sauce is in your shaker!
Anyway that'll do, thoughts on a postcard...
Tuesday, 7 April 2009
Tor-ment?
I've been to the tor a handful of times since my injury. Not to climb, simply to drive, spot and then drive some more. Nat's been trying too hard for mark leach and she's nearly done it, but the last move is seemingly a bit of a bogey move for her.
Last time (mon) we arrived to find the crag deserted apart from Tenacity No.2 sat underneath Ben's roof. He swore he was struggling and proceeded to prove that on the hard release move. By the time it was getting dark he threw together a link from move 2 until the end and cursed not doing the start.
Nat's attempts progressively got worse as the light faded which ended up in a tantrum and a quiet drive home.
Tonight we both went to the works, about 7 days to the hour from my injury. I managed to limit myself to the green circuit (many thanks to Ed who stopped me from entertaining the idea that I could do locks on the campus board as long as I was fully crimped!). The injury didn't feel too bad during the evening but then again everytime a hold required mid 2 I found some other way of using it to avoid weighting the finger. During the course of the evening it twinged once or twice when dragging some of the smaller holds, but nothing earth shattering. Arnica, Glucosamine and Chondroitin, Ibuprofen and a bag of frozen peas later there doesn't seem to be any more pain than before the evening commenced. Hopefully it will stay that way.
Thur night we're off to my folks.
Fri - the county
Sat - the county
Sun - back to my folks
Mon - Slipstones, possibly?
I'd be psyched, but i'm injured so it'll be frustrating and really hard work to keep myself off things that I've been wanting to try (/finish off) for ages!
Last time (mon) we arrived to find the crag deserted apart from Tenacity No.2 sat underneath Ben's roof. He swore he was struggling and proceeded to prove that on the hard release move. By the time it was getting dark he threw together a link from move 2 until the end and cursed not doing the start.
Nat's attempts progressively got worse as the light faded which ended up in a tantrum and a quiet drive home.
Tonight we both went to the works, about 7 days to the hour from my injury. I managed to limit myself to the green circuit (many thanks to Ed who stopped me from entertaining the idea that I could do locks on the campus board as long as I was fully crimped!). The injury didn't feel too bad during the evening but then again everytime a hold required mid 2 I found some other way of using it to avoid weighting the finger. During the course of the evening it twinged once or twice when dragging some of the smaller holds, but nothing earth shattering. Arnica, Glucosamine and Chondroitin, Ibuprofen and a bag of frozen peas later there doesn't seem to be any more pain than before the evening commenced. Hopefully it will stay that way.
Thur night we're off to my folks.
Fri - the county
Sat - the county
Sun - back to my folks
Mon - Slipstones, possibly?
I'd be psyched, but i'm injured so it'll be frustrating and really hard work to keep myself off things that I've been wanting to try (/finish off) for ages!
Tuesday, 31 March 2009
NNFN!
Went to the tor...
warmed up thoroughly, but all of my goals were wet so I went on 'Powerhumps' with the hope of getting it so wired that 'Staminahumps' is a real possibility.
First try goes badly, I hit the crimp wrong. No worries, it happens.
I pull back on, hit the second open and carry on to the jug, easy.
Drop off from the jug in absolute agony.
Uncurling my fingers hurt like hell, I couldn't load it. I can't load it. Its f*cked!
warmed up thoroughly, but all of my goals were wet so I went on 'Powerhumps' with the hope of getting it so wired that 'Staminahumps' is a real possibility.
First try goes badly, I hit the crimp wrong. No worries, it happens.
I pull back on, hit the second open and carry on to the jug, easy.
Drop off from the jug in absolute agony.
Uncurling my fingers hurt like hell, I couldn't load it. I can't load it. Its f*cked!
NNFN!
3 weeks 'til trip time...
3 weeks 'til trip time...
Tor-bound
When Nat gets home from work we'll be jumping in the car ASAP and nipping to the tor, fingers crossed for ok conditions, as well as no traffic.
If we run out of light, Wed I'll be buying a lantern!
Whilst I may berate myself for not approaching my sessions very sensibly lately, at least I can say that these days I am definately making a lot more effort to get out instead of taking the easy option...
Monday, 30 March 2009
Amateur
Having not had much enthusiasm to train recently everything has become a bit slack. I haven't been indoors much and when I have, I haven't really tried all that hard, preferring to sag back to Terre Firma than actually pull hard. Team this with my amateurish attitude to skin from the previous weekend and you have the perfect recipe for a disappointing day at the Tor. Yesterday, weepy, hurty bruised skin stopped me from feeling particularly good on anything. I couldn't manage the move on Ben's roof where you (or I) take my feet off and plonk them on the sidewall (I was cruising on this just a few weekends ago), this left me feeling frustrated with myself. I've got a trip coming up in less than a month, I don't want to have peaked too early or waste it by not being on form or worse; because I haven't given it my all before I leave! Maybe I just wasn't on it, maybe it was too warm, whatever it was it certainly wasn't great.
When we then decided to leave (5.30 ish) it was evident that I'd made another amateurish mistake, the conditions had improved massively just in time for the so-called 'hour of power'. We arrived in the heat of the day, with bad skin, and yet persevered? Foolish behaviour, which I won't be repeating anytime soon. Next weekend we are away so I'm going to pack in the training this week as much as possible. Tomorrow night Nat and I will try and squeeze in an evening tor session. My lock felt particularly weak yesterday and it's about time I did another Beastmaker phase. NO MORE BEER...or tequila...
A few things crossed my mind yesterday (whilst being grouchy of course);
When we then decided to leave (5.30 ish) it was evident that I'd made another amateurish mistake, the conditions had improved massively just in time for the so-called 'hour of power'. We arrived in the heat of the day, with bad skin, and yet persevered? Foolish behaviour, which I won't be repeating anytime soon. Next weekend we are away so I'm going to pack in the training this week as much as possible. Tomorrow night Nat and I will try and squeeze in an evening tor session. My lock felt particularly weak yesterday and it's about time I did another Beastmaker phase. NO MORE BEER...or tequila...
A few things crossed my mind yesterday (whilst being grouchy of course);
- Kids and climbing are all well and good but when they have little or no understanding of crag etiquette and their guardian would prefer to get stuck into Staminaband rather than to stop them chanting (loudly) behind someone climbing then the two simply don't go together.
- People who walk over and try whatever you're trying for the sake of it are annoying, especially when their kids are running around being a pain.
- IF there isn't enough room for you to get in between me and the bit of rock I'm about to pull on to, suppose there may just be a reason. Especially if your kids are running around being a pain.
- Climbing or more to the point BOULDERING is far too accessible.
- Sheffield will be getting a real treat in under a month when UKB's latest pair of buildering fanatics head our way, supposedly climbing full-time no doubt not living in a woodshed.
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