Firstly, I got bored of the blog being all dark, it didn't really work too well on my rubbishy laptop screen so its back to minima and a cheeky 7+8 theme until I can be bothered to do something better. Having said that, I can't focus on work so it might happen sooner rather than later.
To avoid this getting too lengthy I'm not going to go through every aspect of our two weeks in font, just the things that stand out. The full list of ticks, failures and looking at things for the future is up for anyone who is truly interested to decipher (boredom in Font can make you do strange things).
The WeatherWell I arrived with death cold so I didn't mind too much that it was damp and un-climbable the first day. I retreated to bed after visiting the Carrefour. The second day was slightly better, climbable and from then the next 8 or so days were absolutely perfect, blue skies and temperatures between 2 and -5 according to the Italian diesel monster. The last 2 or 3 days weren't so good, one night it rained. It then froze and thawed during the next night and days and made climbing tricky. There was stuff to get on but nothing remaining on my list and Nats projects were all at Cuisenere and very damp! Not the ideal end to our holiday but really we can't complain, compared to others who came out after us we've had a perfect trip.
Noir Desir
This is my most prized tick of the trip despite not being the hardest (grade wise anyway!). I have to thank Bonjoy for recommending it to me a number of years ago. Every time since then that I've visited Font to find it in the baking sun. I'd never had a chance to get on it however on one of the first days (driving around) it was one of the few things vaguely dry, despite the start not being so. I pulled on at the heel hook and was soon spat off confused as hell. Slopers, technique, long? hmmmm not my ideal problem but something about it meant I couldn't leave it alone. The day that it got done (I think the 3rd session but Nat tells me 4th!), we arrived early and the rock was HOT despite everything else being freezing cold. I tried it quickly with Scott and Lee and fell matched on the dish. Sense kicked in and I left the Rempart to go and find/try Coup de Patte. Later on we returned meeting Scott and Lee on the path back to Cuvier, talk was of better conditions and I got all excited. The first few goes saw me falling off matched until Andy J suggested a change of foot placement and some helpful micro beta. I slapped hard next go and my LH went into the final dish worth noting, psych! but then.... my right hand ripped. I burst out laughing (which is not my usual reaction I can tell you!) as I just can't get pissed off about trying this problem. Every time I tried it I learnt something new about my body position or the way to take a hold and squeezed one more move out. Next go everything stuck. I paused for a moment on the last hard move and had a celebration. Then again at the finishing jug, afterwards I sat on top of the boulder looking out at the best weather I've ever seen in Font, truly happy. If you haven't done it, do it!
If you have done it you'll know what I mean.
Coup de Patte
If you've watched L'Etranger (which you should have done!) you'll have seen this problem and know why it was on my hit list. Powerful, dynamic moves up steep rock. One thing it doesn't really convey is how bad the landing feels.
In the morning we'd left Noir Desir and searched out shadier spots. We found it easily enough (near the BEES Jon!) and it wasn't long before I got involved and tried to push Nat down the gully in the picture (bad foot placement). If you ever try this problem try it once for the flash then do it from standing first as if you get through the first moves you shouldn't be falling on the top or wussing out.
So...Out of sight edge for left foot (instead of heel to avoid an akward foot placement, makes first move harder but 2nd easier). Left hand slap up to pinch. Pogo right leg and slap crimpy bottom of the big feature. Foot back on and slap to the slopey boss (amazing move, picture^). Adjust RH into the good bit of the hold, move LH over, high foot and jump out right to slopey top, heel hook, match and over the top. It was a quick tick but great nonetheless. Other people weren't too psyched by the landing and problem in general (Lee, Scott).
Ouzo
Not much to say about this apart from it was on Christmas day! Earlier on I'd warmed up at Bois de Long Vaux, the day started well with a flash of le nuit as a warmup (its steep and positive but still maybe a little soft?) then took a turn for the worse as Fata didn't roll over easily, in fact I made zero progress on it. First go I was 1cm from the pocket, Gaston Method (amazing!) 1cm away from pocket. Last slap go 1cm from the pocket. Arghh damn! Thank god the day turned around or else I would have been a grumpy person on Xmas day.
The Marie Rose
Despite Noir Desir being my most prized tick of the trip it was far from the best moment. On the same day (actually earlier on, it was Nat's turn to pick the venue) Cuvier was freezing in the morning. As we waited for Lee to turn up Nat got re-involved with the Marie Rose. On her previous sessions she was hitting the sloping pinch but not holding it. That morning, first go her hand stuck to the pinch and we both new it was on. She carefully ticked the foot placement and noted micro beta that helped her get to this position every time. What happened next left me utterly startled and really impressed. After sticking the pinch she found herself unable to move her feet as she wasn't getting much from the RH sloper. She'd been up there for an absolute age, her RH searching for a non existent better hold, it worked its way down the dark runnels where I can't find anything and then; emergency crimp (
Varian TM) was unleashed. Crimping on nothing she moved her feet high before returning both hands to the sloper and topping out comfortably. I can't explain how happy I was for her, every time we've been to Font she's jumped a grade band and now this!
Moondance
Moondance is Nats unfinsshed business. For its grade I can't really think of a better problem. The problem was; I can rock over on a good hold, she's too short and has to use a bad bad foothold. By the end of the fortnight it was wet and out of the question. Oh well, there's nothing wrong with having something to go back for is there? I've always found (and this trip is no exception) that my ticklist doubles in size. There is so much to do, Cuvier Rempart boulders would be my desert island choice. No doubt about it!
During the remainder of the time we did an awful lot of driving to tick things that I'd either not got around to, seen on L'etranger but never heard of! Or in some cases problems I'd previously failed on. I identified that Big Dragon is my helicopter problem. James had given me some beta about moving the heel that convinced me I'd do it this time whereas in reality the heel was taking most of my weight. This one has been filed as an obvious challenge for the future but I need to be stronger and better on slopers.
I can't describe how envious I am of Keith and Lee who are destined to remain in the forest for around 3 months! Maybe, just maybe when I finish this PhD I can treat myself to something similar.
I can't wait to see what Unc manages to get up during this hol and what fancy camera work he has in store, the trip hasn't started too badly from my perspective. L'Etranger provided entertainment almost every night of the week and a soundtrack for the hol!
