For the last two weeks I've been comparing my data, to that of my predecessor's (both lab and simulated) without too much success.
If I do a bit of a rewind here, my Phd revolves mainly of modelling pollutant travel through urban drainage volumes. Think Manholes; Tanks Zzzzzzz.
I've got data from a scale model, a CFD model and some fancy PIV data (cameras that work out magnitude and direction of particles within flow!) for verification against what is meant to be my new and improved model to be used in more realistic (i.e. changing) conditions.
The fit was appalling and today I found out why. I traced it all back to particles going missing. Numerically vanishing. At first it seemed completely random but after a LOT of coding and analysing of data. Think 1e+9 lines of data per particle for 80,000 particles. I found out where they were coming from and where they were vanishing.
I've been convinced that I'm a dim wit and got something massively wrong in the setup of all my models.
I've been chasing a numerical glitch in a commercial code for at least the last month. The thing is; during the past month I've cursed my work, my supervisor, my project and a lot of other things yet today I have an almighy grin on my face as I've triumph'd, this is the nature of the beast. Problems challenge you to devlop mentally, examine things you might otherwise ignore and learn new skills to bust the problem wide open.
BOOM
Friday 30 April 2010
Thursday 29 April 2010
Motoring with Arm rests
I did indeed manage to get out on Tues evening; to Burbage North. Bannana finger area for warmups (Nat ticked) then straight along to the far end to try Velvet 'hot as hell scrittle' crab, Nicotine Stain, Cleo's arete and then finally Remergence. A nice potter but not much beyond that.
Wed morning I picked up Mr S (as he will be referred to) from Hathersage and hammered the little blue italian North up the M1. We arrived around 11am and turning the corner onto my parents drive my heart was in my mouth. I'm always worried when selling cars that I've got it wrong and maybe oversold somethings quality/condition. I was relieved to see the van glinting in the sun light, bumpers as black as the day it rolled out of the factory. Phew.
God I love that van.
After a coffee Mr S checked the van over. Straight for the engine. Started first turn of the key. Then the bodywork, interior and finally the roof.
He asked me to take him for a spin, naturally I agreed and lept in. Arm rests down, window open just a crack, fallin right back into trip mode. Oh how I love that torquey big engine. It may be a van but its a joy to drive.
By this time I was wearing a large grin with a furrowed brow. Why oh why was I selling the van? Its like taking an old faithful pet to be put down. It just doesn't feel good.
Anyway the sale went through very quickly (sold pretty much for what I paid) and Mr S set off back down to London.
The van is gone and I have to say I'm pretty sad to see it go. I may have cursed it a few times on the trip but I couldn't have asked for more. Hopefully I'll never see it again.
I once owned one of the last Mini Coopers ever to be manufactured. It was fantastic and I would spend hours polishing all of the chrome parts. When I finally came to sell it, it went to someone I knew. He had a modified focus and really I should have known better.
The exhaust developed a small hole so he replaced it with an ugly aftermarket wide bore system. Then, only a matter of months later he part-ex'd it (the stupidity) for a Seat Leon Diesel. FFS, that was a travesty. I never want to see that happen again.
To cheer myself up I spent the rest of the day detailing the Italian. Nat took it to work this morning and didn't notice.
Wed morning I picked up Mr S (as he will be referred to) from Hathersage and hammered the little blue italian North up the M1. We arrived around 11am and turning the corner onto my parents drive my heart was in my mouth. I'm always worried when selling cars that I've got it wrong and maybe oversold somethings quality/condition. I was relieved to see the van glinting in the sun light, bumpers as black as the day it rolled out of the factory. Phew.
God I love that van.
After a coffee Mr S checked the van over. Straight for the engine. Started first turn of the key. Then the bodywork, interior and finally the roof.
He asked me to take him for a spin, naturally I agreed and lept in. Arm rests down, window open just a crack, fallin right back into trip mode. Oh how I love that torquey big engine. It may be a van but its a joy to drive.
By this time I was wearing a large grin with a furrowed brow. Why oh why was I selling the van? Its like taking an old faithful pet to be put down. It just doesn't feel good.
Anyway the sale went through very quickly (sold pretty much for what I paid) and Mr S set off back down to London.
The van is gone and I have to say I'm pretty sad to see it go. I may have cursed it a few times on the trip but I couldn't have asked for more. Hopefully I'll never see it again.
I once owned one of the last Mini Coopers ever to be manufactured. It was fantastic and I would spend hours polishing all of the chrome parts. When I finally came to sell it, it went to someone I knew. He had a modified focus and really I should have known better.
The exhaust developed a small hole so he replaced it with an ugly aftermarket wide bore system. Then, only a matter of months later he part-ex'd it (the stupidity) for a Seat Leon Diesel. FFS, that was a travesty. I never want to see that happen again.
To cheer myself up I spent the rest of the day detailing the Italian. Nat took it to work this morning and didn't notice.
Tuesday 27 April 2010
All Wrong
This weekend we got it all wrong. Approaching the weekend there were two options:
1) Finish off random 'never got around to' grit boulder problems
or
2) Take Nat out for some not so Hard Grit trad action.
At the last minute on Friday night we realised we were out of chalk. No problem as we live next to Sheffields premier climbing wall... the Foundry. Two minutes later we had super chalk and another option. Yorkshire Lime?
I've never been that fussed in driving for what seems like an eternity (I know team Tenacity have this one wired), up to the Yorkshire lime as I used to live just over an hours spirited drive north. I spent most of my younger summers at Kilnsey and getting there from Sheffield seems a little too much like hard work. However, I haven't lived their for around 6 years and truth be told, I miss the place.
I was sold, Nat wasn't. She had her heart set on tradding and that is where we ended up. At High Neb, with the punters and the tw*tty IT consultants moaning about their income (you don't get a rise, its a recession you fool [unless you're a banker]). It was warm, sweaty and very irritating. I'm not a people person at the best of times but the boreal joker wearing lemming brigade really got to me.
Back at the car I had a minor hissy fit about a wasted day, we set off back home for a BBQ which would have been great if Waitrose didn't refuse to sell us alcohol. 24 years old and with ID they wouldn't sell it to me as Nat couldn't provide any (despite her not paying). I asked how they were then selling it to the Middle aged (no doubt tory) lady with her 12 year old son next to me and got an answer that could have been delivered by a disabled parrot 'its policy'. Oh yeah? Its f*cking idiotic policy and you were happy to sell me BBQ lighter fuel without any ID. To add insult to injury the manager said if I rejoined the que by myself they'd happily serve me. So your policy protects against what exactly?
Sunday we failed yet again and arrived at a BBG west as the heavens opened. We retreated.
Tonight we were going to head out. Not to Yorkshire, this time it was either
1) Random grit
2) Cheedale
Quick calcs showed that Cheedale wasn't going to happen as time would be just too limiting. Warm grit seemed better than warm plastic so we decided to target another problem off my list. Unfortunately I got stuck with my Matlab code and anyone who's used this will know that half-way through a botch it coding operation isn't a good time to call it a day. We retreated to the works.
Given the amount of rest I've had over the last few days I felt it was time for the board and myself to do battle (thoroughly expecting a spanking). Ned, Katie, Tom and the almighty Dense stood guard and mocked me about my Rocky esque comebacks to strength.
I was amazed by the performance I put in (despite my finger complaining a little). I felt strong, light and powerful. An hours board session was enough so I finished with some touches (I always lack lock), a set of repeaters and then just for Omar15 a round of one armers.
I might try and pop out tomorrow night as Wed I'm busy playing dell-boy with the van. Thurs nat is stealing the car and next weekend, well I want to get it RIGHT!
1) Finish off random 'never got around to' grit boulder problems
or
2) Take Nat out for some not so Hard Grit trad action.
At the last minute on Friday night we realised we were out of chalk. No problem as we live next to Sheffields premier climbing wall... the Foundry. Two minutes later we had super chalk and another option. Yorkshire Lime?
I've never been that fussed in driving for what seems like an eternity (I know team Tenacity have this one wired), up to the Yorkshire lime as I used to live just over an hours spirited drive north. I spent most of my younger summers at Kilnsey and getting there from Sheffield seems a little too much like hard work. However, I haven't lived their for around 6 years and truth be told, I miss the place.
I was sold, Nat wasn't. She had her heart set on tradding and that is where we ended up. At High Neb, with the punters and the tw*tty IT consultants moaning about their income (you don't get a rise, its a recession you fool [unless you're a banker]). It was warm, sweaty and very irritating. I'm not a people person at the best of times but the boreal joker wearing lemming brigade really got to me.
Back at the car I had a minor hissy fit about a wasted day, we set off back home for a BBQ which would have been great if Waitrose didn't refuse to sell us alcohol. 24 years old and with ID they wouldn't sell it to me as Nat couldn't provide any (despite her not paying). I asked how they were then selling it to the Middle aged (no doubt tory) lady with her 12 year old son next to me and got an answer that could have been delivered by a disabled parrot 'its policy'. Oh yeah? Its f*cking idiotic policy and you were happy to sell me BBQ lighter fuel without any ID. To add insult to injury the manager said if I rejoined the que by myself they'd happily serve me. So your policy protects against what exactly?
Sunday we failed yet again and arrived at a BBG west as the heavens opened. We retreated.
Tonight we were going to head out. Not to Yorkshire, this time it was either
1) Random grit
2) Cheedale
Quick calcs showed that Cheedale wasn't going to happen as time would be just too limiting. Warm grit seemed better than warm plastic so we decided to target another problem off my list. Unfortunately I got stuck with my Matlab code and anyone who's used this will know that half-way through a botch it coding operation isn't a good time to call it a day. We retreated to the works.
Given the amount of rest I've had over the last few days I felt it was time for the board and myself to do battle (thoroughly expecting a spanking). Ned, Katie, Tom and the almighty Dense stood guard and mocked me about my Rocky esque comebacks to strength.
I was amazed by the performance I put in (despite my finger complaining a little). I felt strong, light and powerful. An hours board session was enough so I finished with some touches (I always lack lock), a set of repeaters and then just for Omar15 a round of one armers.
I might try and pop out tomorrow night as Wed I'm busy playing dell-boy with the van. Thurs nat is stealing the car and next weekend, well I want to get it RIGHT!
Friday 23 April 2010
The Golden Hour
"Many climbers move to Sheffield with dreams of training hard and making it big, only to find an almighty reality check awaiting. You might have been the best climber in Bingley, but in the Steel City, whether you go to the wall or the crag, there's always someone stronger than you, better than you, or both. A lot of healthy sized fish in a not enormous pond. A fair few folk simply drop out, others sink into competitive training, but the majority put their ambitions to one side and just get on with their climbing."
Quoted from Adam Long UKC Article
A fairly good summation I'd say. Over the past few weeks I've been getting out with a regularity that surprises even myself and quite frankly its been great. Last night, after an evenings pottering along Burbage South edge, finally getting around to trying/ticking a few more from the glaring omissions list I wondered to myself; "why on earth don't I do this more often?". The simple fact is that from now on I will try to.
The weather is getting warmer, its time to get out the rack that I've neglected since coming to Sheffield and see what's what.
Quoted from Adam Long UKC Article
A fairly good summation I'd say. Over the past few weeks I've been getting out with a regularity that surprises even myself and quite frankly its been great. Last night, after an evenings pottering along Burbage South edge, finally getting around to trying/ticking a few more from the glaring omissions list I wondered to myself; "why on earth don't I do this more often?". The simple fact is that from now on I will try to.
The weather is getting warmer, its time to get out the rack that I've neglected since coming to Sheffield and see what's what.
Friday 9 April 2010
Ego
Climbers with large ego's, I'd advise you avoid the climbing works until team Mammut have left.
Last night the works was a truly dismaying place to climb. On the one hand you have Sheffields stongest bouncing up the board like they eat a diet of low fat helium and on the other you've got a few blokes that look like Euro waddage, and some guy who looks a bit like David Lama swinging around and generally throwing some crazy shapes.
I have to say I'm struggling a lot at the minute. I'm climbing 'nicely' outside which is what should matter but I have to admit I struggle not to beat myself up when indoors I'm getting burnt off left right and center. In all honesty I thought I was above it all but when everyone is stronger than you and cruising things that you're failing on it all gets a bit much.
Viewed objectively last nights sessions wasn't all that bad, given I left work late and didn't get to the wall until 8.15. I put to bed a couple of problems that had been frustrating me, floated up a couple of crimpy numbers (which leaves me even more confused about the state of my RH A2). However what sticks in my mind is the amateurish approach I had to the session. Not resting, missing sequences and generally doing far too much volume before getting frustrated that I can't tick yet another of the frustrating (big lock) moves at the end of a session.
I think a lot of us judge our own performance by looking at those around you. If the pack are all behind then you're undoubtedly going well, if one person speeds away then he/she is on good form. If everyone else has seemingly lept forward a huge amount and left you trailing? I just don't know. 6 Months of routes is good for one thing, but when you go for Stamina the moves become so ridiculously easy that all of your power just flows away.
One thing I know for certain is that it'd be good to have someone to bounce off during a session. A few weeks ago I bumped into Stu at the Foundry (before the juggy big move problems came along) and had a great session. At the works I tend to arrive with Nat, warm up and then we both head our seperate ways. Its hard to ensure you take an objective look at problems and the necessary rest without anything else to do other than stand around a look like a lemon.
Hoepfully I'll soon be able to definitively say whether or not my A2 is a real problem. If it isn't then I think its time to start trying just a little harder.
Last night the works was a truly dismaying place to climb. On the one hand you have Sheffields stongest bouncing up the board like they eat a diet of low fat helium and on the other you've got a few blokes that look like Euro waddage, and some guy who looks a bit like David Lama swinging around and generally throwing some crazy shapes.
I have to say I'm struggling a lot at the minute. I'm climbing 'nicely' outside which is what should matter but I have to admit I struggle not to beat myself up when indoors I'm getting burnt off left right and center. In all honesty I thought I was above it all but when everyone is stronger than you and cruising things that you're failing on it all gets a bit much.
Viewed objectively last nights sessions wasn't all that bad, given I left work late and didn't get to the wall until 8.15. I put to bed a couple of problems that had been frustrating me, floated up a couple of crimpy numbers (which leaves me even more confused about the state of my RH A2). However what sticks in my mind is the amateurish approach I had to the session. Not resting, missing sequences and generally doing far too much volume before getting frustrated that I can't tick yet another of the frustrating (big lock) moves at the end of a session.
I think a lot of us judge our own performance by looking at those around you. If the pack are all behind then you're undoubtedly going well, if one person speeds away then he/she is on good form. If everyone else has seemingly lept forward a huge amount and left you trailing? I just don't know. 6 Months of routes is good for one thing, but when you go for Stamina the moves become so ridiculously easy that all of your power just flows away.
One thing I know for certain is that it'd be good to have someone to bounce off during a session. A few weeks ago I bumped into Stu at the Foundry (before the juggy big move problems came along) and had a great session. At the works I tend to arrive with Nat, warm up and then we both head our seperate ways. Its hard to ensure you take an objective look at problems and the necessary rest without anything else to do other than stand around a look like a lemon.
Hoepfully I'll soon be able to definitively say whether or not my A2 is a real problem. If it isn't then I think its time to start trying just a little harder.
Wednesday 7 April 2010
HIgh Balls
Work
On Thurs my work went arse over tits. Put in a 100 particles; get a 100 out. Put in 200; get 188 out. Put 1000 in get 600 ish out. I need to put in 82,000, and with that level of mass in balance, I'm screwed. Something is going wrong within Fluent and I'm making my case to the helpdesk to rectify it. How come when you have direction with something like this a massive obstacle falls from the sky and lands right in the way? Oh well, my license runs out in 8 days anyway and they're notoriously bad at renewing it so I won't lose any 'extra' time.
Onto more interesting things...
Bank Holiday
The weekend came and to be fair the long range forecast had us all a bit defeated. On Thurs night we made the decision to head north, crash at my folks and then check the weather in Northumberland the next morning, if it was poor we'd relax with my family. If it was good we'd climb.
It was good, in fact excellent. We chose to go to Callerhues which is out towards Bellingham, a little off the beaten track and therefore quiet. Empy if truth be told. One thing that should be noted is that the Trad guide and Bouldering guide are interchangeable for this crag, it depends whether you can look at something high and think F5+ does it justice, or whether the E3 solo tag makes more sense (the latter does for me). The rock here is great but needs more traffic and a little effort with a SOFT brush to sort out the tops (which are rounded). There really are a few gems at this crag; Monocle, Crouching the mahogany, H8 and Softly Softly (sorry guys the problems at the far left are far from classic). Dan's eyes of silence was damp on the right arete so I opted to steer clear.
Saturday we awoke and did the same thing; check the weather. Yorkshire looked questionable, Northumberland poor. Again a quick bit of a guidebook flick led us to the Bridestones, I wanted to tick Horror Arete and Nat wasn't fussed where we went. The crag was empty until we left in the evening when a solitary boulderer turned up. Conditions were a little greasy but the weather held and I got my ticks and did battle with a few grit slabs.
Sunday, you guessed it. Up then weather. Again there were a few problems I wanted to try that I'd just never got round to visiting. Ramshaw, Newstones and Baldstones were the order of the day. The wind was howling at Ramshaw which made Oasis bulge tickier than it ought to have been. On the lower tier the wind was held at bay allowing me to nip in for a quick ascent of Tierdrop. This problem is classic, high, basic, grit pinches, a bit of power, what more could a man want? Newstones and Baldstones weren't riveting but Charlie's and the Ripple needed ticking.
Monday, we both awoke sore and with little skin. Instead of climbing we opted for DIY and we now have a new working electrically heated, electrically pumped shower. Which is nice. Neither of us died in the process which is also heart warming.
There are a few things that I haven't got around to trying that I really feel I ought to. Marks roof being one notable hole in my repetoire. I also feel that I should visit the Gardoms North circuit and see whats what. Pogle's wood looks like a great little find.
When the weather gets a little warmer and a little more stable (does it ever?), I think it'll be time to take Nat tradding, The peak, the pass and the slate are top of the list. I've never been to pembroke but maybe this is the year?
Training
I'm back into visiting walls as often as I feel up to it and I have to say that I'm struggling. Tonights sessions was far too long and I didn't identify that point at which I stopped making progress in the right direction. I berated myself for not getting a double toe to work and kept hammering away until all skin and stomach were destroyed. Its a rookie error and one I need to address. Stop strong? Yes Malcolm.
Misc
Camera's n stuff? Got a little lucky and found a load of old lenses my Grandad had, these 'should' work a treat with the 550d when/if I manage to get one.
Oh and if you haven't heard through the grapevine or some other source, two weeks or so the wench and I got engaged. This time she took me seriously. For anyone aspiring to propose I suggest that you never do it:
A) drunk
and
B) using a carrefour (value) jelly ring
On Thurs my work went arse over tits. Put in a 100 particles; get a 100 out. Put in 200; get 188 out. Put 1000 in get 600 ish out. I need to put in 82,000, and with that level of mass in balance, I'm screwed. Something is going wrong within Fluent and I'm making my case to the helpdesk to rectify it. How come when you have direction with something like this a massive obstacle falls from the sky and lands right in the way? Oh well, my license runs out in 8 days anyway and they're notoriously bad at renewing it so I won't lose any 'extra' time.
Onto more interesting things...
Bank Holiday
The weekend came and to be fair the long range forecast had us all a bit defeated. On Thurs night we made the decision to head north, crash at my folks and then check the weather in Northumberland the next morning, if it was poor we'd relax with my family. If it was good we'd climb.
It was good, in fact excellent. We chose to go to Callerhues which is out towards Bellingham, a little off the beaten track and therefore quiet. Empy if truth be told. One thing that should be noted is that the Trad guide and Bouldering guide are interchangeable for this crag, it depends whether you can look at something high and think F5+ does it justice, or whether the E3 solo tag makes more sense (the latter does for me). The rock here is great but needs more traffic and a little effort with a SOFT brush to sort out the tops (which are rounded). There really are a few gems at this crag; Monocle, Crouching the mahogany, H8 and Softly Softly (sorry guys the problems at the far left are far from classic). Dan's eyes of silence was damp on the right arete so I opted to steer clear.
Saturday we awoke and did the same thing; check the weather. Yorkshire looked questionable, Northumberland poor. Again a quick bit of a guidebook flick led us to the Bridestones, I wanted to tick Horror Arete and Nat wasn't fussed where we went. The crag was empty until we left in the evening when a solitary boulderer turned up. Conditions were a little greasy but the weather held and I got my ticks and did battle with a few grit slabs.
Sunday, you guessed it. Up then weather. Again there were a few problems I wanted to try that I'd just never got round to visiting. Ramshaw, Newstones and Baldstones were the order of the day. The wind was howling at Ramshaw which made Oasis bulge tickier than it ought to have been. On the lower tier the wind was held at bay allowing me to nip in for a quick ascent of Tierdrop. This problem is classic, high, basic, grit pinches, a bit of power, what more could a man want? Newstones and Baldstones weren't riveting but Charlie's and the Ripple needed ticking.
Monday, we both awoke sore and with little skin. Instead of climbing we opted for DIY and we now have a new working electrically heated, electrically pumped shower. Which is nice. Neither of us died in the process which is also heart warming.
There are a few things that I haven't got around to trying that I really feel I ought to. Marks roof being one notable hole in my repetoire. I also feel that I should visit the Gardoms North circuit and see whats what. Pogle's wood looks like a great little find.
When the weather gets a little warmer and a little more stable (does it ever?), I think it'll be time to take Nat tradding, The peak, the pass and the slate are top of the list. I've never been to pembroke but maybe this is the year?
Training
I'm back into visiting walls as often as I feel up to it and I have to say that I'm struggling. Tonights sessions was far too long and I didn't identify that point at which I stopped making progress in the right direction. I berated myself for not getting a double toe to work and kept hammering away until all skin and stomach were destroyed. Its a rookie error and one I need to address. Stop strong? Yes Malcolm.
Misc
Camera's n stuff? Got a little lucky and found a load of old lenses my Grandad had, these 'should' work a treat with the 550d when/if I manage to get one.
Oh and if you haven't heard through the grapevine or some other source, two weeks or so the wench and I got engaged. This time she took me seriously. For anyone aspiring to propose I suggest that you never do it:
A) drunk
and
B) using a carrefour (value) jelly ring
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